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Old 22-02-07, 07:30 PM
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ThePinkOne ThePinkOne is offline
Pink Strings Shoot Better
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Hoyt Ultratec
Sight: SureLoc Challenger
Stabilisers: 30" HMC
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Axis FMJs/Navs

Compound Script currently under construction
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: UK- South Wales
Posts: 893
Any steel screws that I put into my riser that I might want to get out again, I use a little (Halfords cycle) grease. Sounds like you need to have the old bolt driled out then re-tapped, put in a new screw and don't forget the grease. Plus if you get a metric thread tapped in it'll be much easier to find a screw!

I learned a hard lesson a few years ago. I had a puncture, so loosened the wheelnuts, jacked the car up, got the nuts out... but could I get the alloy wheels off the hub? Could I hell. A vanload of contractors stopped to help.. They couldn't shift it either.

Needed a big rubber-headed hammer to shift it in the end. Why? Well, you put steel and alloy together without grease/copperslip and they will seize. From henceforth I always remind the type change guys to pop a bit of copperslip on the wheelhubs (they must hate me, stroppy female or what?) and I also pop a bit of grease on the steel screws on my sight and rest. PTFE tape is another option. Even though I shoot a fast compound, they don't come undone either. On the other hand, the base weights on my stabilizers do come undone; for these and other such screws (e.g. cam mods), I use blue threadlock.

Another thing to remember is that on some bows, the threads on the new riser might not have been cleaned- if you ask your dealer should be willing to run a tap through the holes before use, this clears out any rubbish that may also help bind in the bolts that then shear.

P.
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ThePinkOne
Speed, which becomes a virtue when it is found in a horse, by itself has no advantages
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