Quote:
Originally Posted by sp220  Having said what i said in my earlier post...
I STILL use a longrod to check the alignment
The principle IS still fine, because you are (in nearly all cases) NOT adjusting in the alignment in increments of tenths of a mm. You are, at best adjusting the increments by 1 or 2mm at a time (more on a Hoyt probably). So, even if the rod is out by 1/2 a mill, it wont matter because the incremental adjustment you make is of a much larger range anyway - especially on the Hoyt system with the washers...
The way to do it is just to use a shorter rod (24"-26") if you have one (which will probably show up as straight). And dont put on the full set of stabilizers untill you have set up the alignment.
You WONT get the alignment perfect - most bows dont come with a system where the alignment can be adjusted in fine enough increments to allow it.
Fortunately, you can get it pretty damn close.
Sam |
I don't see this in the real world but as you're studying to a much higher level than I shall ever attain perhaps you can explain.
In the real world you wouldn't notice 1/2 a mil, agreed; however, the error is more likely to be 0.5mm or more at the bush-end by the time you see the accumulated tolerances and as most people would not have a short long-rod kicking around for tuning purposes the errors are likely to be noticeable on their 30" 36" or even 42" rods.
Add to this the distance to the limbs and the problem is worsened, is it not?
I work in electronics and manufacturing tooling and the sort of tolerances above are very-much real world in the mechanical assembly.
I have seen bushes in risers that are skew by at least one or two degrees and I have seen them where they are virtually square yet offset by one or two mm between examples of the same model... even at the higher price range.
The consistency in assembly is just not good enough to use as a reference IMHO, of course.