Thread: Nocking Point
View Single Post
  #22 (permalink)  
Old 25-07-06, 09:37 PM
jadlem's Avatar
jadlem jadlem is offline
In the Blue
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Sebastian Flute SF
Limbs: SF Carbon Foam 34lbs
Sight: Cartel
Stabilisers: Doinker Carbon Elite
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: Archery School 2 Colour 8125
Arrows: 680 ACCs 3-04 29 3/4

Setup
Bow: Mathews Switchback
String & Cables: Baracuda
Sight: Sure Loc
Stabs:
Scope: Beiter 39
Launcher/Rest: Trophy Taker SS1
Arrows: ACE 27" 470
Release Aid: Just Cuz
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Witchford, Cambrid
Posts: 139

Affiliations & Declarations (Click Here)
Affiliation:
Club:
Commercial:
Commercial Interest:
GNAS Classification:
IFAA Classification:

AIUK Rankings & Live Shoots (Click Here)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Tee
I was always taught that the button hole was the center of the bow and all the tuning I have done on my Pro Eagle bears this out. I use a button and flipper rest, tiller of the bow is zero and the nocking point is at zero as well As for nock travel I know it is level That is one of the things you can count on with an Oneida.
Wish this was the case, have been reliably informed by a hoyt pro shooter that their compounds shoot better with the rest and nocking point closer to the shelf!

Thought this was strange till I tried it myself and was shocked by the results!

Since then I set up a compound bow to get the fastest arrow speed then tweak the setup accordingly to get the fine adjustment and tuning sorted, I have set up a couple of bows in the past according to convention and had problems with sight marks on long distance rounds. Since setting up with the most performance out of the bow this has not been an issue.

With compounds there is the simple remedy to the above and simply plump for a 60lbs bow and some ACEs but I used to shoot 45lbs and could only afford ACCs!

If you can borrow a chronograph try this yourself!
Reply With Quote