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View Poll Results: How do you set tiller?
Zero and forget it. 17 28.81%
A small amount. 35 59.32%
And tiller is what exactly? 7 11.86%
Voters: 59. You may not vote on this poll

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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-06, 01:51 AM
StinkyPete's Avatar
In the White
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Samick Mizar
Sight: Round thingy-ma-jig
Stabilisers: Can actually balance without them now
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: One should be sufficient but I often need six

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Location: Ely, Cambridgeshire
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Personally I set mine statically - but there is no option for this
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 24-01-06, 05:25 PM
In the Gold
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Bowtech Allegiance
Sight: CJ Ants 2
Stabilisers: Beiter
Button: Bowtech Allegiance
Bow String: Bowtech
Arrows: Nav FMJ

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Most modern limbs seem to work best with very little tiller (I have mine set at 1mm) but this can vary with different set ups and with different archers. Heres one of the easiest ways to check. Put everything on the bow that you normally use (longrod twins etc.) but dont put an arrow on the bow, just hold the bow at arms length and before you start to draw back aim at something. Slowly (and I mean slowly) draw back to your normal anchor whilst looking through the sights, if the bow has a tendacy to rise as you pull back it means that your tiller is too much, if it falls as you draw then your tiller is too little. In this way you are tuning the tiller to suit YOU and the equipment.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 24-01-06, 05:31 PM
tel's Avatar
tel tel is offline
It's an X
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 3,498
Quote:
Originally Posted by SLOWHAND
Most modern limbs seem to work best with very little tiller (I have mine set at 1mm) but this can vary with different set ups and with different archers. Heres one of the easiest ways to check. Put everything on the bow that you normally use (longrod twins etc.) but dont put an arrow on the bow, just hold the bow at arms length and before you start to draw back aim at something. Slowly (and I mean slowly) draw back to your normal anchor whilst looking through the sights, if the bow has a tendacy to rise as you pull back it means that your tiller is too much, if it falls as you draw then your tiller is too little. In this way you are tuning the tiller to suit YOU and the equipment.
I do so like something I can grasp!
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-06, 03:35 PM
greydog's Avatar
In the Gold
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Merlin XS
Sight: Copper John field
Stabilisers: Merlin Triad
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Pro Tour, X7's

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I can't really speak for recurve, but I set mine to zero then creep tune the cams . I get the bow to hold steady and level by adjusting stabilisers/weights. Tiller tuning only changes the angle of the riser and therefore the grip on a compound, so I haven't found it to be much use as I use a low grip. I do know people who have found it usefull on compounds, most of whom had either a high or medium grip, so maybe it's effect's are more or less noticeable depending on which grip you prefer?
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 19-03-06, 09:50 AM
cecile's Avatar
In the Red
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Yew long bow
Sight:
Stabilisers:
Button:
Bow String: linen
Arrows: bamboo/beech

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Join Date: May 2005
Location: France
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As limbs and the handle are not symetric, a little tiller is required to make them work properly.
I put 6mm on my bow.

I set it by observing the motion of my sight when drawing the bow as perfectly in line as possible. If the sight moves, the tiller need some adjustment. A much longer setting consists of trying different tillers (don't forget to adjust both limbs to keep the same bow weight) at long range (70 m). The higher the arrows on the target, the better the tiller...

The risk of a tiller not set is that the limbs will have asynchronous vibration resulting in a not optimal energy transmission and the causing the arrows to have an up and down oscillation, as if the nocking height was slightly bad.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 19-03-06, 09:57 AM
currie1014's Avatar
In the Blue
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Hoyt Matrix, G3 38med
Sight: Sureloc Contender X
Stabilisers: Beiter all the way
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: ace 670/acc670

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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Exmouth, Devon
Posts: 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by cecile
As limbs and the handle are not symetric, a little tiller is required to make them work properly.
I put 6mm on my bow.

I set it by observing the motion of my sight when drawing the bow as perfectly in line as possible. If the sight moves, the tiller need some adjustment. A much longer setting consists of trying different tillers (don't forget to adjust both limbs to keep the same bow weight) at long range (70 m). The higher the arrows on the target, the better the tiller...

The risk of a tiller not set is that the limbs will have asynchronous vibration resulting in a not optimal energy transmission and the causing the arrows to have an up and down oscillation, as if the nocking height was slightly bad.
at last someone who speaks my language
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