Nocking point height on TXG's?

[dstamberg]

Hello all!

Since I am new to this forum I will briefly introduce myself in an attempt to honour my mothers teachings of good manner.

I am a barebow archer from southern Sweden (so if I abuse your language feel free to point it out ), that started spreading arrows around last summer.

My first investment was a Border Cyclone riser, that I used with a set of borrowed limbs from a friend at the local archery club (who did not use them since he was now shooting Border). Now that I have managed to build up a little more strength (and with the outdoor season coming up) it was time to also invest in new limbs. I was recommended the TXG's, and after having a chance to try them out, the choice was obvious. Smoothest limbs I ever had the pleasure to draw.

When setting up my bow with the new TXG 40#, I found that I needed an exceptionally high nocking point. I need to keep my upper nocking point at 20mm (google tells me that makes about 0.8 inches). For reference the tuning guidelines I have looked at mentions a nocking point height between 5 and 15 mm.

I talked to this friend down at the archery club, who told me that he experienced the same thing. He changed the tiller somewhat to compensate.

So, I guess my question, after all this babbling, is whether the TXG's normally require a high nocking point, or if I am making some other mistakes with my setup (not that one has to exclude the other). Also, I believe that the limbs should already be matched from production and "should not" require any tiller adjustments?

I am aware that the information I provide may be a bit sparse in order to help me all the way, but I have to start somewhere. If any additional information would be helpful, please let me know.


Thankful for any wisdom out there that I may take part of,

Daniel

[JohnK]

I have shot a few makes of limb, but mostly Border XP10s and TXGs. My nocking point on these limbs has always worked out the same (5/16in, or nearly 8mm) when shooting split finger release. However, when I shot three fingers under for barebow I needed a nocking point height of 7/16in (just over 11mm).

So no, I haven't noticed needing a particularly high nocking point for TXGs. Tiller can affect nocking point height as you've said, but so can stabilisation, bow balance, string finger position and bow hand position.

Hope this helps a little

[dstamberg]

Thanks for your fast response, and it most certainly helps. It suggests that I have overlooked something in my setup, which is what I was afraid of...
But hopefully that can be solved

If you know them by heart, may I ask you about your tiller setting and bracing height?

I was out shooting in heavy rain yesterday, just couldn't stop shooting the TXG's, they truly are amazing! And that is without having managed to tune my gear all the way yet. If I manage to do that, I probably will have to quit my job so that I can be down at the archery lane all day

[Zal]

I've been using fairly high nocking point with my borders, first with silvers, now with hexes. Can't remember the exact value but it's right on the upper end of the scale.

I've tried numerous tiller positions too, with silvers I ended up with zero, now with hexes about 5mm positive. Though my finger pressure is almost completely on index and middle fingers, only very little (5%?) on ring finger.

[BorderBows]

the usual setup start for our limbs is:
Wind the bolts all the way in.
Unwind the bolts (on the cyclone and mistral) 4 full turns out.
put the limbs in the bow, sting it, and measure the balance (tiller) at the limb pocket where the limb comes out the riser. This should show approx 4-5mm. This is a base to start from. The Exact setting depends on how you grip the bow, you stabilisers, the way you pull the bow, and brace height. If you have about that then it must be coming from somewhere else...

If your not getting that kind of answer, then there is two areas of problem. Which will either require a second bow, or sending back to us to check it here.

20mm does sound very high

[dstamberg]

At the moment I have the bolts all the way in. I need to wind them far in, in order to reach 60m without altering anchoring position or having to aim over the mark (stringwalker).

During my next shooting session I will go for the start setup described and work my way from there. I will aim for a tiller of about 5 mm and see where that leaves me.

I will post my findings and (hopefully) progress here as I go along. Feels good to have a solid starting point to work from.

Thanks to everyone for the feedback!