New Border Limbs

[compkiller]

I have just taken delivery of my new limbs. WOW! If a limb can be said to be stunning, then these are it.

I've not had a play yet but I have some questions for both border and you fellow border limb owners, as practical experience does not always match theory.

The limbs seem to have a lot more recurve than most others I have seen. Does this make a difference to the length of string I should use and/or the range of bracing height?

Also I have heard people say that their sight marks went up compared to equivalent weight limbs of other makes. Is this down to the speed of the limb, in that it gets the arrow to the target faster and therefore at a lower trajectory.

That being the case am I likely to need a stiffer arrow, as I am assuming (rightly or wrongly) that arrow spine is related to the speed at which the arrow leaves the bow as well as to the poundage.

[napolienne]

Could comment if I knew which model of Border limbs you've got!

[compkiller]

Sorry. TX40 Silvers

[FlourPower]

String? Well mine took 3 or 4 strings to get the length right.

Bracing height. I have 70" TXBs and sit around where I'd expect for 70". Importantly look at how the string sits on the limb when it's up.

The speed of my TXBs are amazing compared to my old limbs. Yes checking your arrow spine would be a good idea! Your old sight marks are probably now useless!

My Tiller! OH MY GOD! What an effort to get the even. Check your tiller when you get a string sorted. Mine was about an inch out with the borders on.

[rod]

tiller, set both limb bolts the same, ie 4 turns from fully wound in. the limbs should read 1/8 to 3/8 pos.
border limbs tend to work best with a low brace, dont be afraid to experiment outside the box.
if you can get to a archery shop where you can try diffrent spine arrows then do so, the easton chart is pretty usless when it comes to border limbs, usually work out stiffer arrows or turn the poundage down.

[FlourPower]

My riser has 4 turns from fully out to fully in!

[JohnK]

Depends on the riser

Sid's advice on initial set up for tiller is simply to make sure your limb bolts are at or near the lowest setting and wound out an identical amount.

E.g. The top setting for my PSE Intrepid is for the bolts to be wound out five full turns. I've wound them in all the way and then wound each one out exactly the same amount.

Compkiller - depends on the length of limb. My XP10s work very well at 9in to 9 1/8in. My TX40 Golds were the same, and the HEXVs I now have seem to like the same bracing height as well, although Sid has advised me to try lower and see what happens. These are all long limbs on a 25in riser, making a 70in bow.

[compkiller]

Looks like I'm in for some fun with the testing then. As far as tiller goes, Sid did tell me what to set them up at. Will see how my current string fits.

Will be like starting all over again as I have changed so many things all at once.

Going up in poundage but also moving from a 68" bow to 66" not being a knuckle dragger as so many of you seem to be. I only have a short a*se draw of 25 1/2 " (yes I have a string designed for a 66" bow). The arrows are also ok according to the charts but we will have to see what happens.

[napolienne]

I'm a shorty too (25" draw)! If at any time you decide to replace your riser sample some of the 23" ones, you might be better off with a shorter bow still.

As for the limbs, with the TXBs I was shooting with a braching height of 8in. With the HexVs (which are really really recurve) its more like 7 1/2. So as a rule lower than normal, but you will need to experiment to find the right height for you.

[compkiller]

Originally Posted by napolienne

I'm a shorty too (25" draw)! If at any time you decide to replace your riser sample some of the 23" ones, you might be better off with a shorter bow still.

Actually I was wondering about riser length too. What sort of effect would moving to a 23" riser have?

As an aside, if you're losing metal by buying a 23 instead of a 25, why are they not cheaper?