How do I choose a compound bow?

[droseman]

Hi,

I have been shooting recurve for a while now, and I fancy having a go at compound too, but I know nothing about the bows or the technology .

What do I need to know to get a bow that fits me and I can use without having to upgrade in a short period of time (remembering all the swapping of limbs as I was improving on recurve). I would probably use it to have a go at field as well as target, if that makes any difference..

Any advice appreciated, chaps

Dave

Hi Dave,

I'm sure you will get lots of response on this. I'v been shooting Compound since April this year. And like you moved from Recurve. In my opinion Compound bows arn't the type of thing you upgrade. You can buy the one you need and keep it for years, within reason and budget.

Two things that need to be established from day one. Bow weight, and draw length. The bow weight for most adult males seems to be about 50-60lb. Again this depends on your size and strength. I used to pull 40lb on my fingers with a recurve, 60lb on my compound is fine for me. ( well 56lb actually) The draw length is a bit more tricky to sort. I for instance have a draw length of about 28" on a recurve, a little less on a compound, say 271/2". This can also vary depending on the type of release aid you decide to use. So as the draw length is not cast in stone and may vary as you get used to your new bow I recomend a bow with an adjustable draw length. Hoyt use cams that adjust within a given range, 26" to 30" type of thing.

Then you have to consider a launcher, bow sight and scope, oh and a longrod, and a release aid. Don't go mad on this type of stuff but don't buy too cheap either. Buy a book and learn how to set the bow up too. You will need coaching, It's not easy to learn to shoot compound on your own, not well anyway. You can blow a fortune on release aids until you find the one you like, be warned. Borrow before you buy anything and everything.

I don;t think there is such a thing as a bad compound bow. but Hoyt is a good bow for all people. Avoid bows with realy short axles and get a second hand bow checked out before you buy if you can.

Welcome to the dark side. Have a beer

[tel]

NOOOOO!!! Use the force, Dave...

[Tuck]

Originally Posted by droseman

Hi,

I have been shooting recurve for a while now, and I fancy having a go at compound too, but I know nothing about the bows or the technology .

What do I need to know to get a bow that fits me and I can use without having to upgrade in a short period of time (remembering all the swapping of limbs as I was improving on recurve). I would probably use it to have a go at field as well as target, if that makes any difference..

Any advice appreciated, chaps

Dave

I was in the same position wanting a recreational compound - and went for a Browning Rage - not a top flite bow but decent, and with adjustable cams giving 10 inches of draw length adjustment - without any bowpress etc - just move the cam ! Check out the browning website as some of the higher spec bows still have 4 inches of adjustment built in.

Retail about £200 in uk (I got it for £80 on Ebay)

Bowsports have them in stock

Dave

[Marcus26]

I go through what you are going through 2-4 times a year.
Things to remember are

1) Quality. You get what you pay for. While there are some good cheap bows out there, the advantages in the latest technology are without a doubt worth it.

2) Weight. Overlooked factor is people's ability to score well. Consider your strength and training in determining how heavy you can go.

3) Draw length. Because it is your first go with something you can adjust draw length with. Adjustable draw stop and modules are great here

4) Ease of use. You will be learning these new toys, so go something low maintanance. (sp?) This is more of a cam decision than a bow decision.

5) Accessories. You want gear with few moving parts and can be dropped without breaking.

6) Stored energy. If you are using for outdoor FITA you want a high energy bow so you can use heavy arrows while maintaining velocity.

7) Long bows = more fogiving is a old wives tail from back in the recurve and twin cam days. With modern cam system you can go as short as 34" and still shoot accuratly. Forgivness is a BS buzzword that doesn't mean anything.

Now what I choose based on these things
1) I always look at the top brands. Bowtech, Mathews, AR and Hoyt. If budget is a problem look at PSE and Diamond. If you buy a PSE get one with the same limbs used on the AR. The Magnaglass limbs are junk.

2) I can go a slightly heavier bow because I train alot, my Mathews LX weighs 8.5lb loaded. However I tend to prefer bows in the 3.9-4.5lb range bare so I can put the weight where I wish.

3) I know my draw length exactly so I shoot bows without this adjustment. However for you the 06 Bowtechs, Hoyt Cam 1/2 and AR bows fit this bill.

4) I want cams that don't require constant monitoring of timing. For this reason I shoot Single cam or Binary cams. Hybreds are not a good choice unless you really know your stuff.

5) No fuss gear like Spring steel rests, solid rod stabilizers and a strong sight and scope.

6) Due to my 28" draw length I avoid bows with an IBO rating under 320fps. Lets me shoot 375 grain target arrows and cut through the wind.

7) Simply no need to go over 38" of axle length. I look at the 34" bows first and then the others. Shooting a 34" Bowtech Allegiance at the moment and also have a 35" Mathews LX. Have ordered a Apex 7, but that's getting on the long side. Because you have a peep sight you don't need to touch the string to your nose, so don't.

[droseman]

Thanks for that info Marcus, thats a lot for me to take in..... One or two questions though

3) Draw Length - How mauch adjustment can you get on draw length ? I have short arms (I shoot a 27" arrow on my recurve, but I don't know if that changes with compound.

4) Ease of use - How do I know what is a 'low maintenance' cam?

6) Stored Energy - I would probably be shooting field as well as target, FITA rounds, does that affect the choice of bow / cam design?

7) Long bows - Are you referring to limb length here, similar to recurve, where shorter limbs make the bow faster.

A nice cold for all your help Marcus, Thanks.

Right, I'm off to research this on the web, I never thought it would be so complex...

Dave

[Marcus26]

Originally Posted by droseman

Thanks for that info Marcus, thats a lot for me to take in..... One or two questions though

3) Draw Length - How mauch adjustment can you get on draw length ? I have short arms (I shoot a 27" arrow on my recurve, but I don't know if that changes with compound.

You usually lose around 1" going from recurve to compound, so you would most likely want a bow that could go from 25-27" so you can get that right. A good pro shop shuld be able to help here.

Originally Posted by droseman

4) Ease of use - How do I know what is a 'low maintenance' cam?

Something that stays in time on it's own. Look at single cams or the Binary cam. Avoid Twin and hybred. (with hybred being OK, but not perfect)
No matter what you choose consider changing the strings and cables to Winners Choice or at least 452X.

Originally Posted by droseman

6) Stored Energy - I would probably be shooting field as well as target, FITA rounds, does that affect the choice of bow / cam design?

I would still go high energy, in particular with her short draw length (remember each inch costs you 10fps).
Look for a bow with a IBO rating of 320+

Originally Posted by droseman

7) Long bows - Are you referring to limb length here, similar to recurve, where shorter limbs make the bow faster.

Bow length. At your draw there is no need to go above 34" AtoA.

Originally Posted by droseman

A nice cold for all your help Marcus, Thanks.

Right, I'm off to research this on the web, I never thought it would be so complex...

Dave

Cheers!
You are welcome to PM me any questions you have, or ask my opinion on any bows you are considering. I sell them for a living and will give you a straight up opinion.
The other posters in this thread have also given some great information.

[Jerry Tee]

Marcus how about giving some information on releases,if you are used to expanding through a clicker as most recurve archers are should you start straight in with a back tension release?

[Marcus26]

That's a good point and I think you are right there.
Great thing about Back tension releases is
1) They are cheap
2) They are simple
3) They are easier to use correctly from the start
4) Can be shot exactly the same way as clicker expansion

Triggers can be too, but I believe is more difficult to learn. Again I go back to my wife on this one, she shot recurve for 10 years and jumped into compound with a back tension. Carefully watching her and she uses both exactly the same way.

Here is an excellent release to start with
Zenith X-Cel Plus

Should be around 35 euro.

[Jerry Tee]

If I ever go full compound I will go for a BT release as I still expand firmly into the back wall before loose