D-Loops

I have just been wondering how people configure there bows with regard to D-loops. Do you shoot with a loop on your release aid? Or on your bow? Or both?

I shoot with a conventional D-loop on my bow, brobably about 1/2 long. My BT release aid then connects directly to it.

The problem I have is...The bow seems very sensitive to how I set off the Back tension release. I don't actually release the arrow via back tension. Back tension does not work well with my bow. I get a lot of left right errors. I tend to cheat the aid by twisting/rotating my hand. I notice if I push with my thumb as opposed to squeeze with my little finger, I get inconsistent loose. The arrows tend to wander left or right. They are always in the gold but not in the 10. if I can get the little finger rotate right, a 10 is no problem. OK so I hear you say 'just squeeze with your little finger then'. Ah..It's not as consistent or as easy to release as it is with my thumb. It's a lot easier to duplicate a push with my thumb. I am wondering why my bow is so sensitive to micro variations in how I hold/use my release aid. I suspect the problem is torque on the string. How can I reduce the torque, and before you sugest using a conventional aid, I can't. How about a longer D-loop?

[TJ Mason]

I like to finger-shoot my compound as well as use a release, so a rope on the release is better for me than a D-loop. But if you use a release all the time, a D-loop is the way to go. It's quicker to use and makes for greater consistency.

I wonder whether you need to set your BT release more coarse? Most problems with BT releases seem to stem from having them set too fine.

BTW, Marcus made an interesting post on AF recently about D-loop length:
http://www.archery-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=93224

Also check out this thread on BT release activation:
http://www.archery-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=93214

[Marcus26]

I would say the issue is in your back tension use, and not the bow. I would also gues sthat you are overdrawn if you are getting inconsistancies in your release. Do you have the same problem with a trigger? How steady are you able to hold?
In my experiance it's notusually the bow, rather it's the archer or the archer in relation to the bow setup. (ie in my thread the bow was too long, just enough to make aiming more difficult)

[doubletop]

i finger shoot my compound and have no desire to use a release aid at the moment i also use 2 fingers above and one below the arrow even though i shoot without a sight

[Bald Eagle]

Hi Double Top
Compound bows are or were designed to shoot with a release aid, due to their short axle length. It is easy to pinch the arrow and pull it off the rest due to the angle of the string, also, getting your fingers on the string in the same position and angle is quite difficult. Really, you are converting your bow to a short recurve bow, as you need a rest and button to shoot it effectively. O.K. a lot of guys shoot "limited" in field shoots, but with longer axle bows. So, if you're coming over to the "Dark Side" come all the way!!

[doubletop]

didnt mean to sound stand offish or awkward just i like to shoot with my fingers i can see wat uresaying and the logic behind it so the next time im at the shop i may look into a release aid and d loop any recommendations

Originally Posted by doubletop

didnt mean to sound stand offish or awkward just i like to shoot with my fingers i can see wat uresaying and the logic behind it so the next time im at the shop i may look into a release aid and d loop any recommendations

This is not a simple answer. When you shoot with a release aid you will need to shorten your draw length a little too to accomodate the D-loop and the length of the release aid jaw. I notice you shoot a Mirlin so a new module may be needed to do this. Don't try and shoot a compound with an over long draw length. very inaccurate and not good practice. Too short is better. Perhaps the best one to try is a wrist caliper release, they may not effect the draw length as much. You need to try before you buy if you can. You can end up wasting a lot of cash finding the right one. You need advise from a good achery shop to check your draw length.

[Adam]

Originally Posted by rgsphoto

The problem I have is...The bow seems very sensitive to how I set off the Back tension release. I don't actually release the arrow via back tension... I suspect the problem is torque on the string.

I'd put money on it being torque on the string. When you're only holding 17-19 lbs at full draw it's very easy to torque the string, especially if you're missusing a back tension release.

There are really only 2 answers I believe. (1) swap to a thumb/ring-finger/little-finger release which will work better for you if you're having trouble with a BT release, or

(2) stick to the BT release but flatten-out your release hand. I'd guess that you shoot with the back of your hand flat against your face? We'll, if you draw-up the bow whist observing in a mirror (or get someone to video your draw hand), you'll be able to see a pronounced kink in the string between the d-loop knots when you press the back of your hand to your cheek. If you flatten out your hand (i.e. a bit more palm-down at full draw) you'll iron-out the kink, and find that the release will also go off more quickly (which may also help you to be consistent).

Adam

Originally Posted by Adam

I'd put money on it being torque on the string. When you're only holding 17-19 lbs at full draw it's very easy to torque the string, especially if you're missusing a back tension release.

There are really only 2 answers I believe. (1) swap to a thumb/ring-finger/little-finger release which will work better for you if you're having trouble with a BT release, or

(2) stick to the BT release but flatten-out your release hand. I'd guess that you shoot with the back of your hand flat against your face? We'll, if you draw-up the bow whist observing in a mirror (or get someone to video your draw hand), you'll be able to see a pronounced kink in the string between the d-loop knots when you press the back of your hand to your cheek. If you flatten out your hand (i.e. a bit more palm-down at full draw) you'll iron-out the kink, and find that the release will also go off more quickly (which may also help you to be consistent).

Adam

The Wedal cam has a 75% let off too, so at 58lb this works out at about 14.5 lb holding weight. Thanks for that Adam I will give that a try. Cheers . I will let you know how it goes.

[Adam]

Originally Posted by rgsphoto

The Wedal cam has a 75% let off too, so at 58lb this works out at about 14.5 lb holding weight. Thanks for that Adam I will give that a try. Cheers . I will let you know how it goes.

Actually, I just took a look at your kit. Because of the pivoting grip on the Bowman you've got to keep everything perfectly in line. Any torque on the string - and you'll get loads if my guesses about your form are right - will cause left/right misses.

Adam