moving rest back further towards string, good or bad.

[sambow]

The "cup/ledge" of my bow, in which the arrow "sits" is very narrow and the centreshot is quite far to the side due to the position of the cams. In summer it is not a problem because I use a snakes tongue rest which can still drop away without interfering with the top of the cup.

Now winter season is here I have switched to big superslams which won't rest on my snakes tongue. So I have changed my snakes tongue for two prongs.

The problem I am having is that the arrow rest now interfers with the top of the cup and is only allowed to drop down approx 4mm.

I am faced with a couple of options:

• Move the rest higher up
• Move the rest further back (it is a GK Premier with 4 attachment holes and two so I could move it back about 25mm)

I am not sure about moving it up. Currently the arrow lines up roughly on centreline with the "button" hole. If I move up, to my mind the knocking point is moving further away from the centre of the bow and I am not sure thats a good thing.

I am therefore considering moving the rest back (bit like overdraw thingy). But I recall once reading this is not a good thing to do as it accentuates torque.

Anyone any advice?

[artee]

Use a spring steel launcher. I have one one my Spott hogg (the new name for GK).
I use the same for both indoors(2315) and outdoors(fmj navs).
Works for me.

[Graham Potts]

Hi - Can't help on the technical side, but please ensure, if you do move the launcher back, that you keep within the Rules (both FITA and GNAS) that the "pressure point" (Where the arrow rests on the launcher - or its"tip") is within the 6cm allowed from the Pivot point of the bow which is the throat of the handle. It sounds like what you are suggesting is within this so you should be ok, but its worth checking.

Graham

[sambow]

Originally Posted by Graham Potts

Hi - Can't help on the technical side, but please ensure, if you do move the launcher back, that you keep within the Rules (both FITA and GNAS) that the "pressure point" (Where the arrow rests on the launcher - or its"tip") is within the 6cm allowed from the Pivot point of the bow which is the throat of the handle. It sounds like what you are suggesting is within this so you should be ok, but its worth checking.

Graham

Thanks for that Graham I wasn't aware of that one. It would be within this anyway I would only move the pressure point back enough to just clear the shelf/shoulder of the bow which from memory is about 2cm back from the pivot point.

[geoffretired]

Sambow, If I understand you correctly, the part that drops, hits the shelf of the bow so it won't drop as far down as you would like it to.( it is still pointing upwards a little)
I have had this problem and it may be that yours is caused by the same thing.
If the snake tongue is sticking up at a steep angle when at full draw, it means the support for that is set low on the adjuster. If you have a flatter angle on the snake tongue, you will need to raise the support on its adjuster. This can in some cases allow the tongue to drop much lower. This applies to the twin fork rest too. The support arm needs to be just a little higher than the shelf, but not so high the fletchings catch it .
I can send e-mail sketches if they will help.

[sambow]

Originally Posted by geoffretired

Sambow, If I understand you correctly, the part that drops, hits the shelf of the bow so it won't drop as far down as you would like it to.( it is still pointing upwards a little)
I have had this problem and it may be that yours is caused by the same thing.
If the snake tongue is sticking up at a steep angle when at full draw, it means the support for that is set low on the adjuster. If you have a flatter angle on the snake tongue, you will need to raise the support on its adjuster. This can in some cases allow the tongue to drop much lower. This applies to the twin fork rest too. The support arm needs to be just a little higher than the shelf, but not so high the fletchings catch it .
I can send e-mail sketches if they will help.

If it helps I have taken some pictures.

Picture 1 below shows scope to move the rest back by using different holes:



Picture 2 shows the rest from behind, the bottom arch of the rest that holds the prongs is level with the shelf. You can just see the right hand prong is in line with the right shelf upturn.



Picture 3 shows the interference better and also the groove I filed to allow the snakes tongue to drop better.



Picture 4 shows how little drop occurs before the prong catches the upturn of the shelf. The rest already sits the arrows higher than I would like, with my snakes rest and carbons the arrow normally runs about level with the button holes.



Picture 5 shows a shot from above (note not directly above I could'nt get there!)

[geoffretired]

Great pics Sambow,
The problem is the same as the one I described earlier.
Pic 4 shows how low the body is that supports all of the arms you can use.
I would try raising the body on the up/down adjuster(pic 1) until the back end of the arms are nearly level with the shelf, then lower the angle on the prongs to bring the ends of the prongs down to where you want them.
Raising the body only becomes a problem if it is seriously higher than the shelf. At present it is well below that.Moving the whole rest back by one hole will obviously help a little too.From what I can see in the pics, it should drop almost flat out of the way when the different changes are made.
Do you shoot on the prongs with one fletch down through the gap? That would help clear the fletches past the screws that hold the prongs in place.