How to use a back tension release properly?

[Tank]

I'm after yet more help....please!!

I do have access to a pro shop, its right on my doorstep but unless your an olympic shooter with lots of cash they dont seem to be that interested!! so... how do you shoot a back tension release properly? Is there a definitive guide or perhaps some instructions that you can out together that may help me a little, I know it depends on the model of which there are lots but just some general points would be a great advantage. If possilbe you could relate it to the cascade 8 and the tru ball BT gold? Thanks guys, i know you will be along swiftly as always!!

[pyroarch57]

Originally Posted by Tank

I'm after yet more help....please!!

I do have access to a pro shop, its right on my doorstep but unless your an olympic shooter with lots of cash they dont seem to be that interested!! so... how do you shoot a back tension release properly? Is there a definitive guide or perhaps some instructions that you can out together that may help me a little, I know it depends on the model of which there are lots but just some general points would be a great advantage. If possilbe you could relate it to the cascade 8 and the tru ball BT gold? Thanks guys, i know you will be along swiftly as always!!

Go to the Dudley Archery site and take a look at back tension part 1 & 2 - excellent.

[geoffretired]

There are two sorts of back tension release, that I am aware of.
One is the double hinge type like the tru ball BT gold which is triggered by changing the angle of the T bar. Usually that change in angle is produced by moving the drawing elbow round further into line.
The other is the true back tension type like the Carter Evo and Loesch.
They require the archer to build up tension on the release after the valley is reached and the safety removed.
The second type is similar to shooting with a clicker in some ways.You get to full draw and on aim then keep pulling to produce a release. One difference is that by the time you hear the "click" the release has happened.
Like shooting a clicker, it is possible to feel a bit hesitant as the draw weight is increased. It requires work to get used to feeling confident with it. They are very good at producing surprise releases as they are almost impossible to anticipate.

[Tank]

Thanks Gseof, I know it depends on the individual completely but is there an 'easier' type to shoot than another? I've just been reding John Dudleys website and he offers a great insight into the wonderful world of 'back tension.' Do you think it would be worth while trying a hinge type release bearing in mind the price in general is significantly lower than a carter evolution? The reason being really is I want to remind my slef of what a proper shot feels like, sometimes i punch the trigger and I want to stop this before its too late!! Another question as well, a lot of people seem to practice with them but very few really shoot with one, why do you think this is?

[geoffretired]

I have lots of years of punching behind me.HeeHee! It's not really funny cause I knew I wasn't supposed to and it took a particular effort to get rid of the bad habit. A light trigger was always worst for me and the heavy ones worked best to get rid of punching. I could rest some weight on the trigger knowing it was safe, then add some more, slowly.
I have never shot the double hinge type, just read about them or listened to users saying what they were like.I think one difference is that there has to be elbow movement or hand movement to trigger the release as the handle is, in effect,a trigger.
The other sort are very good for feeling that surprise shot as they are almost impossible to get wrong.Compared to double hinge, there is no need for elbow or hand movement, pull hard enough and the insides move to cause a release. I have a Loesch and a Carter Chocolate lite(thumb trigger)
The Carter feels nice and when I squeeze the trigger and add back tension, it is very good to use. With the Loesch,and I assume the Evo, all there is to do , is keep pulling; there is no trigger as such.(apart from the safety)
I found that a simpler process; one pull,as opposed to a pull and a squeeze.
They do require a good deal of work in order to overcome hesitation, if you are inclined to hesitate that is.
I have read a few posts on the forum from people who use them for practice but not in competitions. I believe they said they were a bit reluctant to shoot in a wind with them in case they went off when the wind had blown them off aim.
What I have found is that after a while with the Loesch, I give the Carter a try. It does feel very smooth in direct comparison. Then I look at the groups and go back to the Loesch. I feel that the smoothness of the Carter could, in my case, be coming from a little anticipation. I haven't managed yet to anticipate the Loesch.It always gives that little bit more of a surprise.

[Erika]

I shoot my BT zenith, very deep in the hand. My calluses are right at the base of my fingers. i draw up with the release aid square to the bow with thumb, index, middle and ring fingers under some load - this requires a very course setting. and I set it off by pulling with my back and allowing the natural shift of weight from the index finger to the middle finger.

As I have never punched or ripped off a release aid, the evolution doesn't appear to be useful to me. I prefer the control of being able to vary the tension used in the wind. ie i pull very hard into the back wall on windy days and this cannot be varied with the evo. But i know many people with target panic who find them very good.

[pyroarch57]

Originally Posted by Tank

Thanks Gseof, I know it depends on the individual completely but is there an 'easier' type to shoot than another? I've just been reding John Dudleys website and he offers a great insight into the wonderful world of 'back tension.' Do you think it would be worth while trying a hinge type release bearing in mind the price in general is significantly lower than a carter evolution? The reason being really is I want to remind my slef of what a proper shot feels like, sometimes i punch the trigger and I want to stop this before its too late!! Another question as well, a lot of people seem to practice with them but very few really shoot with one, why do you think this is?

This may help you.




What really is back tension?
By George Ryals

Many shooters are mystified with the notion of “back tension.” For many shooters it is this mysterious feeling you get in your back when your shoulder blades are rotated, tucked, pulled, and squeezed into just the right contorted position that enables the elusive “perfect shot”. For others it requires a medical degree and a body chart to locate ambiguous muscle groups that must be flexed and pinched at just the right interval while poking at your release trigger. Ultimately, it is a confusing distraction that takes our mind off aiming, and aiming is the grand wizard of tasks that must be completed without distraction to complete the perfect shot.

All kidding aside, “back tension” can be simplified as a dynamic tension that is set up at the beginning of the draw and it is continues through the release of the arrow.

I feel that it is second only to aiming as the key fundamental part of shooting form that generates accuracy and consistency. Proper setup and use of this "tension" can help you shoot longer by relieving fatigue. It will make you a more stable shooter by relieving muscle tension in the arms and hands. Dynamic tension also reduces the amount of muscle groups involved in the shot. This will diminish muscle tremors that can cause sudden misses, quick shots, and general unsteadiness.

What does it feel like?

Try this exercise. Make a bow drawing motion (without a bow in your hands). For most people it is easier to isolate the back without the weight of the bow or the tension of the string. While making a drawing motion, make sure your hands, forearms, and shoulders are relaxed as they can be. Actually let your hands dangle loosely as you do this. Keep your back straight, head up and turned towards the target, and straighten your bow arm, but keep the elbow unlocked. As you reach full draw, you will be able to feel your back working to hold full draw. Keep your elbow high. The lower your elbow gets, the greater your chances become for your back transferring the pressure to your arms and hands. Loss of tension is usually unrecoverable without letting down and restarting the shot. Leaning back at full draw is also another common cause of tension loss. I had this problem and it is hard to fix because you can’t feel it. Stick a bow square or an arrow in your waistband and let it go down into your pant leg next to your leg. Usually an arrow works best because of its length. It will remind you to stay straight as it stops you from leaning as you draw. This feels weird, but it does help.

This is the critical juncture in the whole technique. If your hands and arms take over, you will increase your shot time and will lose stability. The longer you stay with the shot the more unstable you will become, almost guaranteeing a miss. You can test this feel just as you did above by going through the same motions except make your fists super tight. You will be able to feel a diminished amount of tension in your back and if you keep your hands balled tight enough, you can feel the shaking and muscle tremors caused by this loss of tension.

How do you shoot a bow with well placed tension?

Dynamic tension is a simple push pull technique. You need to feel a balance between the push and the pull. Imagine drawing a bungee cord and you are stretching it between your bow arm and your drawing hand. Dynamic tension or the push pull effect stretches the cord. Most pro shooters set up this dynamic tension when they raise the bow to the target. This stages the proper muscle groups. The muscles that you use to draw the bow are the very same muscles that you use to aim the bow, and the back muscles will give you the most stability. I feel that it is virtually impossible to reach your full potential as a shooter unless you draw the in this manner because it is extremely difficult to draw the bow with one muscle group and then, at full draw, switch to the proper muscle group. If you draw it with arm and hand power, you are doomed to aim it with arm power, which is incredibly unstable. As you reach full draw you should pull the bow into the stops and continue to apply mild pressure as you align your peep with the scope and the dot with the X. Once everything is centered and anchored in the center of the target, You will then commit to the shot and the release opens in time.

How do you shoot a release while using Dynamic Tension?

We have reached full draw and aligned the whole shooting match up with the X. Now what do you do? Well the release better go off pretty soon or you will pull the wheels off of the bow. right? With a trigger style release, usually you will need a slightly stiffer trigger than you are used to. This will let you build strong tension with you r finger on the trigger without risk of pre-fires. I allow my wrist muscles and the tendons in the back of my hand to slightly relax as I pull. This causes my hand to yield on the release. There is no real perceivable movement, but it is just enough to change the pressure on the trigger, and the shot is released. A rotational style release works in the same manner. When you commit to the shot and your tension builds allow your hand to soften or yield on the release and that is just enough to change the attitude of the release handle to make it fire.

How do you know if it is right?

This is where the mystery is revealed. If your elbow is above the plane of your shoulder, your are pushing and pulling, and there is no undue tension in your hands or arms, you have to be doing it right. Your bow will feel easier to hold, and your sight will hold tighter on the dot. If you feel like you are working too hard you are probably not doing it right. You may be over pulling. If your shot will not go off, you have lost tension. Let down and reset.

Do not over complicate the feel just push and pull. Practice this on a blank bale until you get it down. Then practice it on a target at close distances until you can forget about it and allow it to naturally happen. Then move to your normal distances and go for it.

If you need a visual aid go to Archery History and click on “archers” at the top of the page is a video of Terry Ragsdale and Eric Hall in a shoot off in Australia 1985. Terry, in my opinion, is the model by which all form should be judged. In the video, he exhibits flawless form and perfect shot execution. Grab the 20meg file. It will take a while, but it is worth it.

[TJ Mason]

Brad Rega once posted a link on Archery Talk to an excellent video of himself shooting with a back tension release. He and GRIV posted a lot of good stuff on AT about BT. They're not active over there any more, but it would be worthwhile to search through their posts.

[geoffretired]

Originally Posted by Erika

I prefer the control of being able to vary the tension used in the wind. ie i pull very hard into the back wall on windy days and this cannot be varied with the evo.

That is a very good point you made there, Erika. I will try my Carter next time it is windy; shouldn't have to wait long knowing our climate!!

Pyroarch, Thanks for that post. Great bit of simple explanation. Squeezed my hands and got the shakes as predicted, magic! Will be practising as soon as time is available.

[archer]

[quote=geoffretired;179368]I have lots of years of punching behind me.HeeHee! It's not really funny cause I knew I wasn't supposed to and it took a particular effort to get rid of the bad habit. A light trigger was always worst for me and the heavy ones worked best to get rid of punching. I could rest some weight on the trigger knowing it was safe, then add some more, slowly=quote]
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with my first year at the darkside over i been punching my target master 2 so i tring to get use to the back tension i tying a evo+ from a pal as i said on other treads it will a lot of work to get use to it i got a boss for blank bale shooting and ideals or info on using to get use to BT releases i only going to use evo+ as a training aid would't like shooting in a wind with it thanks for post on the subject