Bow Kick

[Zanda]

Hi, I have a Hoyt 38ultra, on shooting it their is a pronounced kick the long rod lifts upwards, the only way to stop it is to hold the bow tightly.
Last night a friend tried out my long rod, so I shot my ultra with out a long rod, the kick back is really pronounced, rotating the bow backwards towards my head.

The Ultra has a string stopper, to my way of thinking, the string hitting the stopper, maybe the cause of this problem, what do you guys think?

[Adam]

I think you need a longer rod - or some weight on the end, but my preference would be for the longer rod.

Balance the bow on your forefinger, with your finger on the front of the handle directly in front of the throat of the grip and the long rod hanging down. It should sit there no problem, but if the long rod is too short (or the weight on the end too light) the top limb will swing upwards and try to smack you in the head.

Adam

[Marcus26]

I do the same as Adam described. I put more weight on the front of my stabilzier till the bow levels out on release. A longer rod does the same thing.

[TWIW]

Originally Posted by Marcus26

I do the same as Adam described. I put more weight on the front of my stabilzier till the bow levels out on release. A longer rod does the same thing.

Not tempted to adjust tiller then?

[Graham Potts]

Originally Posted by Zanda

Hi, I have a Hoyt 38ultra, on shooting it their is a pronounced kick the long rod lifts upwards, the only way to stop it is to hold the bow tightly.
Last night a friend tried out my long rod, so I shot my ultra with out a long rod, the kick back is really pronounced, rotating the bow backwards towards my head.

The Ultra has a string stopper, to my way of thinking, the string hitting the stopper, maybe the cause of this problem, what do you guys think?

I also shoot a 38 Ultra, and found I needed far more weight on the long rod than I needed on the Ultratec to get a good balance as others have desctibed in this thread. I also removed the string suppresser as I cannot think it was providing any benefit for Target shooting, although I can understand its benefit in terms of noise reduction for hunters. Neither of these moves have done me any harm, as my PB FITA has improved this year to 1347.

[Marcus26]

Originally Posted by thewayitwas

Not tempted to adjust tiller then?

No way.
If you adjust the tiller you are adjusting you cam timing. Fine for that, but I have never found the claims that it makes your bow hold better as actual fact.
I use to do all the paper plate testing that Frank Pearson preached and yeah, you would find one was better than another, but what were you actually changing? Also when I did further testing the results differed..
I was advised to try tiller tuning again recently but the results were not conclusive and the changes they made to the bow were vast and varied.
Good method if you are using steel cables and want to adjust the timing, but not good in modern times.

[emdrum]

Another factor to consider is your grip. The way you grip the bow can have a pronounced effect on the amount of kick from the shot. If the heel of your hand is pressed against the bow handle as you realease, the bow will kick upwards. The more force there is between the grip and your hand, the more it will kick.

If you think this might be part of the problem, ask a coach to watch you shoot and maybe try altering your grip so that the balance of the force is forward though your thumb and forefinger.

Worth a try before you start spending money.

Cheers

Mike

[Zanda]

Thanks for the advice given.