Drawing against the stops !

[The Meggy]

Thanks for the tip Watch Man, will try removing the rubber stops from my Hoyt. Marcus. agree about not pulling harder than allows you to hold your aim. There is a region of pull amount where all the forces are best balanced and your bow holds steadier, and its good to shoot in this region.

[Watch_Man]

Originally Posted by The Meggy

Thanks for the tip Watch Man, will try removing the rubber stops from my Hoyt. Marcus. agree about not pulling harder than allows you to hold your aim. There is a region of pull amount where all the forces are best balanced and your bow holds steadier, and its good to shoot in this region.

G. they can easily be put back if you don't like it, however Wendy and JD both shoot without them in.

[Marcus26]

Originally Posted by Watch_Man

G. they can easily be put back if you don't like it, however Wendy and JD both shoot without them in.

As does Erika and Pat Coghlan (1404 shooter in Aus)

erm... does this contradict what i said? The whole point is holding still enough to aim is it not?

Yep but at some point you will no longer hold still and simply start straining muscles, which will cause you to move far more than the wind will. So Pulling Harder into the Wall does not automatically make you hold steadier.

[archer_thom]

Marcus - I know my ProElite isn't timing properly, but I don't have access to a draw board and all my friends are terrified of getting near it at full draw. Also, I'm not sure the shop I bought it from believe that they can untime. What can I do?

[Marcus26]

Any archer's best tool is a digital camera, prefer with video.
Get someone to take video of the top cam which you draw and just touch the bottom stop (watch it)
Then you can watch the video and decide from there.

I need to redo this article but it should help.

Urban Archery

[sambow]

Marcos, thanks for the artical which explains things perfectly.

On my hoyt I shoot wheel and a half (with release). I love the feel of the bow, but one thing I don't like is I cant feel a hard wall at all and I think I am drawing to different places. I figure your comments re knock point moving on overdraw are probably equally true, yet I think I may be more likely to overdraw with a wheel and half.

Can you offer any advice of tuning wheel and half as the hoyt manual does not give very precise methods.

A second issue is I heard someone once talk about "wall bangers" which I think are an improvised way of introducing a hard wall on cams that don't otherwise have one. Do these work and do they fit wheel and a half?

[archer_thom]

Originally Posted by Marcus26

Any archer's best tool is a digital camera, prefer with video.
Get someone to take video of the top cam which you draw and just touch the bottom stop (watch it)
Then you can watch the video and decide from there.

I need to redo this article but it should help.

Urban Archery

Thanks that is great advice.

[archer_thom]

One small thing though, the Urban ARchery article maintains that CAm1/2 bows cannot get the "bump-bump" effect - but mine does. I'll find out what caused that and get back to you.

[Marcus26]

Can't see how you would get that bump bump effect, that's really odd on a Cam 1/2. Never experienced it.

With eth Wheel and a Half this is the downside of that cam. You would time them exactly teh same way but you won't get that rock like wall with it.

[Little Miss Purple]

Originally Posted by Marcus26

Yep but at some point you will no longer hold still and simply start straining muscles, which will cause you to move far more than the wind will. So Pulling Harder into the Wall does not automatically make you hold steadier.

I guess the feeling at the wall varies from each bow... I can't imagine pulling soooooo hard aginst the stop that you become unstable or infact unrelaxed in the shot!!