Builiding a set of FITA arrows (Axis FMJ)

[kennls]

Hi

I have ordered myself the following stuff from bowsport.

- 2 dozen Axis FMJ 400's
- 24 125 grain Easton SIB points
- 24 110 grain Easton SIB points
- 24 100 grain Easton SIB points
- 100 white Plasti-Fletch Mac PM20 shield vanes
- 4 dozen white x-nocks
- A good weight scale with a capacity of 770 grains (50 grams)

I ordered 3 sets of points, so I can toy around with the best setup on the front.

I have searched here, archery talk for forum threads on arrow building. I have also searched the net. But I can't seem to find a good decent how-to build a good set of FITA arrows. Any good books on the subject?

So I was hoping to put a good how-to together on the Axis FMJ's and maybe even get a "sticky". I will take some photo's while I'm building the arrows.

From what I have read Marcus26 (a big thanks for his advice so far) and others writing, I have come to the presumption, that arrow building for FITA, especially 70 and 90 meters, require more than just glueing everything together.

From what Marcus26 have written, there seems to be a bit of weighing involved, is just how and why of this weighing is performed, I need to find out.

Arrows and insert's

The arrow shafts seem to vary 1-2 grain, but the axis FMJ's also need a insert for the SIB point. So I would think there is 2 options:

1: Weigh the inserts and shafts indepedently and pair them up so they match in weight as a whole. The weak link here is the glue for the insert as this will vary?

2: Put them together and weigh afterwards. Adjust the points weight (by filing) so the arrow shaft as a whole weigh the same. The weak link here is perhaps, that there could be less front weight?

Maybe I even need to combine the two options?

For the shafts I presume that one wants the shafts to weigh the same, but I don't know how much is possible, or if one corrects a 2 grain difference with the points?

But if the shafts vary in weight, then they must be numbered as changing the point, would mean that you want the same weight difference with a new point.

Points

Weigh these and file of above the screw, so they weigh the same or do one pair them up with the shafts. This depends though on what I should do with the shafts?

Is the purpose of filing of to get the points identical or paired up with un even weighing shafts?

Vanes

Glue the Plasti-Fletch Mac PM20 shield vanes on with a 1 degree of set to the right

Nocks

The nocks should be easy to get identical, as this is plastic and I did order a lot.

Thanks in advance for your responses.

/Kenn

[Marcus26]

Hey
What I did was build the arrows totally, fletched and inserts added, and then at the end did my weight matching. I have a set of Easton grain scales and a set of RCBS 555 reloading scales. Some cheap digital ones are fine, but get ones that do 0.1 grains. Many cheap ones don't go that well. The RCBS are likely the cheapest but are manual.

I then weighed all my arrows and numbered them from lightest to heaviest

Then I weigh my points and number them heaviest to lightest.

so

Shaft 1: 295
2: 295.2
3: 295.3
etc etc

Point 1: 125.6
2: 125.6
3: 125.5

etc

So if I join the numbers I get

Shaft 1: 420.6
2: 420.8
3: 420.8

This will get you mostly even or within 0.4 of a grain. If you want them better then simply file down part of the inside of the screw in point to get it close. I use a dremal for this.
If you have a really light one, drop some solder into the insert.

Don't stress about getting to 0.1 difference. 0.3-0.5 is fine.

[Watch_Man]

My Axis FMJ's vary by 2 grains, I use them with FOB fletches and the Hooter shooter puts the complete set of 12 in the same hole each time They are a great arrow to build your first set as they seem very tolerant. Even the ones I have been using to shoot into various household objects still fly well.

I do basically what Marcus is recommending when building arrows and points are cheap enough to mess around with so even if you get 'Dremel fever' you can afford to start again.

[Marcus26]

Originally Posted by Watch_Man

My Axis FMJ's vary by 2 grains, I use them with FOB fletches and the Hooter shooter puts the complete set of 12 in the same hole each time

What distance though? 2 grains is fine short range, but 90m that will cost points.

[Watch_Man]

Originally Posted by Marcus26

What distance though? 2 grains is fine short range, but 90m that will cost points.

I never shoot them past 80yds. I only use them for field, short rounds, indoors and destroying things

Mr Hooter will put them in the same hole at 20yds outdoors, 40yds if it is totally still.

I have some video somewhere of them gradually punching their way through a field boss as the Hooter puts them in and gradually destroys the boss.

What I find amazing is their ability to go through cans, bottles, fruit etc and still shoot fine.

As I would not class the Axis FMJ as a FITA Target arrow I never actually bothered matching them more than the 2 grains. We set out to match Wendy's Nano's to as near perfect as possible, usually getting down to about 0.2 - 0.3 grains. I wonder what tolerance Clint builds his Nano's to? I saw the report of his 1420 FITA on your forum ....wow!

[Jerry Tee]

When I got my Axis 400's they came with nocks fitted.

[kennls]

Originally Posted by Marcus26

What I did was build the arrows totally, fletched and inserts added, and then at the end did my weight matching. I have a set of Easton grain scales and a set of RCBS 555 reloading scales. Some cheap digital ones are fine, but get ones that do 0.1 grains. Many cheap ones don't go that well. The RCBS are likely the cheapest but are manual.

I bought this one from bowsports:

Bowsports Tools

Thanks Marcus, will try your method and update my "how to". Will post some pics and so forth.

[kennls]

Originally Posted by Jerry Tee

When I got my Axis 400's they came with nocks fitted.

Yeah...but they are blue, I shoot with white nocks and vanes, so I will change these.

/Kenn

[kennls]

Originally Posted by Watch_Man

As I would not class the Axis FMJ as a FITA Target arrow I never actually bothered matching them more than the 2 grains.

Yes...no one in Denmark competes with any type of FMJ arrow, it seems most uses navis, ace's and protours. There is a lot of protours and ace shooters, that only shoot 1200 - 1300. The tournament this weekend was won by Martin Damsbo with 1376 as I remember.

The dominant thought in Denmark, is that arrows must be carbon on the outside and that Axis FMJ is much to heavy. But seeing Marcus results with the Axis FMJ and pondering how easy a Navi destroyed, made me ponder that my first year outside could be too expensive with the Navi's. It could be fun to do well with an arrow noone expects can do well.

I can save the money for better arrows later, when my shooting is more consistent. This night I had good groups some rounds and then had highs/lows due to my bow hand pressure on the bow.

/Kenn

[Watch_Man]

Originally Posted by kennls

I can save the money for better arrows later, when my shooting is more consistent. This night I had good groups some rounds and then had highs/lows due to my bow hand pressure on the bow.

/Kenn

IMHO the Axis FMJ is the best value arrow you can get for the money and you won't be disappointed. I prefer them to my Navi FMJ's

Best of luck and build them carefully as Marcus said.

I just love the arrows for experimenting with as they are so tough.