arrow tuning-help needed noob

[ASW1973]

perry thinks you cant get two chronos to give the same reading so go figure however i have never seen the right spine come out of archers advantage but as i say i guess that is because people use the program wrong. This is a good example of someone quoting a figure that must be right cos it came out of a computer. If a 27.5 inch arrow out of 55lbs was too whippy at 400spine then what would we all be shooting (use a little common sense)

Again let me say i thin archers advantage is a great program, well researched and produced but it has given the wrong answer here, probably due to user error

[T101]

ok, again thanks for everyones input/help, different views r a good thing

shot arrows 1st time tonight, but substantial cross wind so stuck to 60yds only. they grouped pretty well considering, varying from 2-4 inch group, with a few more than i'd like strays, but they were ok at 60 b4 i shortened them. need a calm day and some longer distances b4 i can tell 4 sure.

fellow archer noticed that they were kicking up and down a little over 1st couple of meters , so will do some paper testing for nock point, or is this kicking a characteristic of unmatched arrow?

[Marcus26]

I'm still yet to see anyone who can test if spine on a compound with a release is right or wrong.

The 400's will be fine for that setup.

[sambow]

The most important thing of all is dont go with too weak a spine. Setting aside performance degredation. I have met two people in the last two years who have had carbon arrows explode on release. One had a carbon/alloy arrow explode and it ended up fragmenting into the back of his bow hand. The other more recently had an all carbon explode and it went straight through his bow forearm and through the other side narrowly missing a main archery. His arm was a right mess and he can no long shoot compound as his bow arm is too weak!

The lessons I deduced from this were:

Dont underspine
Never shoot a carbon arrow showing any sign of damage
check the condition regularly (ideally after each time shot)

[T101]

Originally Posted by sambow

The most important thing of all is dont go with too weak a spine. Setting aside performance degredation. I have met two people in the last two years who have had carbon arrows explode on release. One had a carbon/alloy arrow explode and it ended up fragmenting into the back of his bow hand. The other more recently had an all carbon explode and it went straight through his bow forearm and through the other side narrowly missing a main archery. His arm was a right mess and he can no long shoot compound as his bow arm is too weak!

The lessons I deduced from this were:

Dont underspine
Never shoot a carbon arrow showing any sign of damage
check the condition regularly (ideally after each time shot)

okaaaayyy, thats scary. what size triples arrows would u advise?
my draw weight is tricky, c next post.

[T101]

Originally Posted by Marcus26

I'm still yet to see anyone who can test if spine on a compound with a release is right or wrong.

The 400's will be fine for that setup.

thanks for advise dude, but what if my draw weight is more or less than this. it reads 58lbs when i draw with a digi scale and 53 ish on a mechanical one???? this is drawing normally, but u r supposed to take off the bows mass with this method yes?

[sambow]

Originally Posted by T101

okaaaayyy, thats scary. what size triples arrows would u advise?
my draw weight is tricky, c next post.

Regarding your draw weight reading differently on two different scales. Take the highest reading to be safe. If you think your poundage will go up, assume it is 60lbs since you are so close and if you are shooting GNAS (assumption on my part) thats the max allowed anyway.

regarding the triples. I have no experience of them personally but if you check out a spine chart Cartel Triple spine selection. You will see that it reads for your draw weight and arrow length 400 is perfectly stiff enough which is confirmed by Marcos and ASW both who are very knowledgeable.

[Marcus26]

Originally Posted by T101

thanks for advise dude, but what if my draw weight is more or less than this. it reads 58lbs when i draw with a digi scale and 53 ish on a mechanical one???? this is drawing normally, but u r supposed to take off the bows mass with this method yes?

Go with the digital scales. Mechanical handhelds are piles of junk. If it's a mechanical that is checked with a certified weight that's different.

You don't take off the bow's mass because the bow's mass is drawing the bow.

You can still use 400's at that setup. I use 470 Protours at 27" 60lb and they group nice. The 400 Triple is a 480 spine. Personally I would buy 300's, but would use 400's if that's what I had.

Compound bows will shoot arrows over a massive range of spines (like 0.2 deflection range which equates to 200 on the spine ratings) and still group well enough to shoot 1350+.

[T101]

Originally Posted by Marcus26

Go with the digital scales. Mechanical handhelds are piles of junk. If it's a mechanical that is checked with a certified weight that's different.

You don't take off the bow's mass because the bow's mass is drawing the bow.

You can still use 400's at that setup. I use 470 Protours at 27" 60lb and they group nice. The 400 Triple is a 480 spine. Personally I would buy 300's, but would use 400's if that's what I had.

Compound bows will shoot arrows over a massive range of spines (like 0.2 deflection range which equates to 200 on the spine ratings) and still group well enough to shoot 1350+.

Cheers breh, and thanks everyone else who responded, helped set my mind at rest. so looks like i am pulling 58lbs then, will probably just go to 300s when due for new arrows.

all i gotta do now is shoot as good as my bow, whats the best fita/york score with a switch again? no problem