Is my anchor position too high (pictures) or peep sight too low

[sambow]

Firstly apologies to those of a nervous disposition because unpleasant pictures follow!

Prompted by my inability to reach 80M on a setup that should to be able to I have started to wonder if my peep sight is too low (currently 135MM from Knock) hence my anchor too high.

My peep is currently 135mm from the top of the lower knock, my anchoring is shown below:



I tried moving the peep up by 10mm. It felt awful, I grouped much worse, but my sight scale moved up by 7mm which was good. The trouble is I don't know if the awful feel and grouping was unfamiliarity. The picture with the raised peep is shown below (although I confess it doesn't look much different it felt very odd)



Some questions:

1) What distance do others generally have their peep from the top of their knock?
2) Does my anchor look too high?
3) While the picture is there any comments on the draw length.

NB if the pictures cause too much offence I will swap with orland bloom and kiera knightly when i've had feedback.

[Marcus26]

Looks alright to me, mine is about 100mm. Perhaps your sight is too far out.
Also that metal nocking point is costing you points.

[sambow]

Originally Posted by Marcus26

Looks alright to me, mine is about 100mm. Perhaps your sight is too far out.
Also that metal nocking point is costing you points.

Sadly sight is fully in and using small scope (30mm lens cartel).

Just how much of an impact is the brass knock having. Normally I use a few turns of serving glued with superglue but was a little tired when I re-served this one so just clampted on a brass knock.

[Marcus26]

You can see it in the pictures putting pressure on eth bottom of the nock. This won't be forgiving to arrows in the shot. Ditch it and go with a tie on nocking point.

[sambow]

Originally Posted by Marcus26

You can see it in the pictures putting pressure on eth bottom of the nock. This won't be forgiving to arrows in the shot. Ditch it and go with a tie on nocking point.

Nice one! Never thought of that I have always avoided brass knocks to keep the weight on the string down.

On a similar note I have one of these d-loop tools with three heads (seamed like a good idea at the time!) they set up the dloop gap an exact distance each time. If I used one of these could I do away with a knock?

[mk1]

I have a thread tie in place of your brass nock - IIAC you need at least one nock point with a D loop and where yours is is the latest trend - oops best practise. If you do without a nock point you'll most likely get creepage of your D loup - and you wouldn't be able to tell by how much either

Moving your peep a little up the string won't make much difference to your sight marks as its the distance your peep is from the arrow that counts (and roughly equates as you rightly surmise to anchor to eye distance. So its more important to set your peep to see through it at anchor.

Where does your arrow lie in relation to the "botton" hole - does it pass through level or is it below? If you have it significantly below it it eats up sight bar - though it is recommended to have it a little below so nearer the pivot point. I'm sure there are some "what height should my rest be?" threads on here.

[oldy]

Hi Sambow,It looks like you and I have fallen into the same trap. A knuckles behind the jawbone anchor.I can just get on at 100yds, although I think my XV helps as I only peak at 48lbs and shoot 318s+100g piles.
My point is this ,my wife who because of her age only peaks at 28lbs but uses a low anchor against her kneck and reaches 80yds easily. Before you dismiss this as pointless, let me state that she is, despite the aforementioned well up the top ten county ladies, 2nd . She was a GMB and MB recurve for many years and has a very clean technique.
Why I mention all this, is that I believe that it is possible to shoot very well with a lower anchor point provided a good line is maintained, it just means that practice is nescessary to get consistancy.
However if you do decide to go lower you may find that you will have to increase your draw length or bend your bow arm a bit more, as the angle of the string moves the anchor backwards, providing that is, the head/string relationship is maintained..

[sambow]

Originally Posted by mk1

Where does your arrow lie in relation to the "botton" hole - does it pass through level or is it below?

Currently the bottom edge of my rest lies approx 2mm above the top edge of the button hole so my arrow lies above the button hole. If I were to screw a long bolt through the hole the arrow on the rest would be above the bolt with approx 2mm clearance, so its much higher than you suggest. I have got into a habit of putting it there because of clearance issues on previous bows.

[Marcus26]

Originally Posted by mk1

I have a thread tie in place of your brass nock - IIAC you need at least one nock point with a D loop and where yours is is the latest trend - oops best practise. If you do without a nock point you'll most likely get creepage of your D loup - and you wouldn't be able to tell by how much either

I agree with you on needing a nocking point, however the location of that nocking point will greatly effect the tune on some bows. For example a Hoyt with C2 cams is a disaster with top and bottom nocking points.

[Jerry Tee]

Looking at the pictures I notice that you did not change you anchor when you moved the peep sight up. Correct me if I am wrong here but it appears as if you anchor with to the jaw with the gap between the first and second knuckles. All the raising of the peep sight did (apart from giving you more elevation)was to make your anchor less settled, because the anchor moved down away from the jaw a bit.
How about changing the anchor to jaw bone between the second and third knuckles as well as raising the peep. This would drop the anchor lower so that the correct location of the peep would be higher?