Fletch Clearance Trophy Taker 1 Slo-Mo & piccie

[Flying Whale]

Originally Posted by Watch_Man

Well Jerry here is a piece of video of an 800 Nano Pro, 450 X10, 800 Triple, and 2 spines of Navi FMJ to compare. (Boredom Warning) Most of the arrows are doing much the same, the only interesting bit was the back shot of the X10 seems to show it sliding off the prongs and riding the right hand prong till it clears. This was probably caused by the arrow not being nocked accurately as the side shots seem to show the X10 travelling OK down the rest.

YouTube - Slow Motion Archery Trophy Taker 1 with Various Arrows

Having found time to watch through this now, it looks from the back shots as though all arrows slide off to the right at some point. The X10 very obviously moves right early. The others all seem to stay fairly central for most of the length, but at the end the tail of the arrow flexes right quite significantly.

Was wondering if either

a. The groove in the rest is restraining the movement for the weaker arrows until the string gets much closer to the rest and leverage is greater?

b. Maybe the string travel is not totally straight (limbs twisting slightly, or cams changing lean angle, etc).

Interesting video though.

[Hidden Hippo]

I wonder if that's what happens with mine? I'm using 500 X10s which are just right for the bow but have cut them from the back making them a little stiffer than a regular 500 X10.

[Watch_Man]

Originally Posted by Flying Whale

Was wondering if either

a. The groove in the rest is restraining the movement for the weaker arrows until the string gets much closer to the rest and leverage is greater?

Maybe

Originally Posted by Flying Whale

b. Maybe the string travel is not totally straight (limbs twisting slightly, or cams changing lean angle, etc).

Interesting video though.

We regularly check the cams and limbs with a laser and there is nothing that would indicate this could be the reason. The bow is drawn back with a draw tool and the cams checked throughout the draw cycle. However it would be impossible to say for definite. The only way we can check is to put the same configuration on Wendy's other UltraElite and see what happens. We may do this next week but she is setup for a double FITA Star this weekend and the bows won't be touched until after.

[Flying Whale]

Originally Posted by Watch_Man

We regularly check the cams and limbs with a laser and there is nothing that would indicate this could be the reason. The bow is drawn back with a draw tool and the cams checked throughout the draw cycle. However it would be impossible to say for definite. The only way we can check is to put the same configuration on Wendy's other UltraElite and see what happens. We may do this next week but she is setup for a double FITA Star this weekend and the bows won't be touched until after.

Thanks for the response. I was wondering if a film sequence from further back taking in the limbs/cams and string might show something. The only issue would be getting sufficient clarity and resolution. May not work...

Isn't it great all the various experiments we can suggest for you to do!! Thanks for putting this stuff. Lots to think about.

[The Meggy]

Trevor, this is all great stuff, cheers for making the results available. I think I mentioned in another thread that I thought my arrows were going over the rest to the right, such that the left fletch was contacting the left prong of the blade. Your videos would indicate that this is a general tendency for all setups, though it seems less for the Nano-Pro 800s. I have only been able to look at my own setup using powder testing, but what results I have got maybe show that my arrows aren't going TOO far to the right, at least compared to some of the ones you filmed - the FMJ's for example seem to be almost completely off the rest to the right as the back end goes over. So I take some comfort from that.

Also, as I noted before, I was able to remove the fletch contact by rotating the nocks to bring the left fletch higher, so that what I then imagine is that the left fletch goes over the left prong (without touching) and the centre of the arrow shaft goes somewhere over the right prong (if you see what I mean) - although both yourself and Marcus have stated that fletch contact is not a problem anyway...

Finally, there does seem to be some uncertainty in archery writings about whether the rest should be positioned directly above the theoretical pressure point on the grip - i.e. right above the centre line of the grip (Larry Wise for example), OR in line with the plane of the bowstring which as you know is a bit to the left of this, due to the string track being to the left side of the cams as seen from behind. I have often thought that perhaps the best position is somewhere between the two. Anyway, maybe this discrepancy has something to do with the results you have observed on film. Perhaps you could let us know where Archery Mum's rest is positioned in this respect also.

Not sure if you can spare the time, but some good further research might be to deliberately use a less than perfect spine set up and see where the best rest position is in left-right position terms. I for one would be keen to see what you came up with. I agree with Jerry though, this is not at all boring stuff, nice one Graham

[Nightimer]

This may or may not be of interest but I was looking at a picture of Dave Cousins shooting last night.
He was using a TT but the rear end was pointed WAY up in the air.
What would be the point of this apart from changing the angle of the blade in relation to the arrow.
How would the angle change effect response to the arrow passing over it.
Would the angle change make the blade more "springy".

Nightimer

[The Meggy]

The point is exactly what you suggest Nightimer - to get the angle where he wants it to be. Apparently the TT2 is made so that the natural angle is too steep for most people, don't know why, so what they do is set the rest up as you have observed Mr Cousins doing. Most of the top guys advocate a blade angle of somewhere between 35 to 40 degrees from horizontal. The steeper the angle, the stiffer the blade reacts, so altering the angle can indeed be used as fine tuning measure. I think the TT1 comes with a better natural angle so does not have to be set up with the back end high. Also perhaps worth mentioning that some blade rests, such as Merlin's excellent Apollo rest, have adjustable blade angle as a feature.