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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 24-03-06, 05:54 PM
Jerry Tee's Avatar
It's an X
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Revolution
Limbs: 38lb winacts
Sight: Arten Oylimpic
Stabilisers: Clickers, K&K twins
Button: SF
Bow String: 14 strand fast flight
Arrows: 1816

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Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2,084
May be we should start calling the grip a handle because we don't grip it.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 24-03-06, 06:08 PM
It's an X
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Poole uk
Posts: 4,556
How about, correct hand placement facilitator device?LOL Sounds techy enough to make some catalogue or other. It can be used instead of a breath test, too. You're not drunk if you can say it. If you feel the urge to say it , you have already had too many.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 25-03-06, 09:46 AM
Davros's Avatar
In the White
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Dorset
Posts: 34
Arrow Thanks.. for all your comments..

Being new to U/L there is a lot of experimenting to do. Reading geoffretireds journal thoughts leaves me streets behind in that field! Whe i got my bow I straight away put my old KG1 (recurve) lovely comfy wooden handle on it. I'll now try the original, lower grip and see how it affects my scores.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 25-03-06, 09:52 AM
It's an X
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Poole uk
Posts: 4,556
comfy grip

Davros, I had KG1 as my first bow. Lovely comfy grip! The trouble was I could put my hand on it in all sorts of positions. I found that the grip needed to tell me if I changed the way I was holding it. Made my own for that reason. Any change in position and it felt wrong/different
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 15-04-06, 06:49 PM
pwiles1968's Avatar
It's an X
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs:
Sight:
Stabilisers:
Button: Whats That then?
Bow String:
Arrows:

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Still new to this but I am definitely high with knuckles at about 45 degrees, my bow has the very small plates at the side of the bow for grips, the heel of my thumb sits on the metal at the front of the riser, so if I try a low grip when I draw it slides to the top of the grip area, the throat if that is the correct word? dont know if there is any way to stop this so i can try a lower grip?

It appears from the design of the grip sections at the side that I should be in this area anyway, it does mean my hand is at the same height every shot, I may take the side pieces off the bow as they dont actually do much for me at all.
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Paul - Experience > Something you gain when things do not go as you expected.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 15-04-06, 07:36 PM
It's an X
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Poole uk
Posts: 4,556
Paul, I think I know what's going on here. When you talk about high grip and low grip I think you mean where you place your hand into the grip area.Up at the top or further down which means it slides up when you draw the bow.
When the others talk of high or low grip they mean the slope of that part that you put your hand against. A high grip means the slope is about 45 to horizontal and throws your wrist high or nearly level with the thumb. A low grip slopes down more steeply and allows the wrist to be low compared to the thumb.
You guessed right about the shape telling you where to put your hand in the first place. Your hand should fit into the grip so it doesn't need to slide up, as it is there from the start.
I can e-mail a sketch if I didn't say that correctly.
Hope this helps
Geoff
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 15-04-06, 07:43 PM
wingate_52's Avatar
It's an X
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Black Winact,Jager grip
Limbs: Winex 42#
Sight: Copperjohn with G505
Stabilisers: 31" Doinker carbon
Button: Shibuya
Bow String: 16/18 strand Majesty (R.Young)
Arrows: Nav 610,Fatboys 500 27"

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Location: Bowdon
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High grip for me. With the 3 other fingers at 45 degrees. I used to get a blister on the second finger where it was in contact with the edge of the wooden grip, but now it is a hard callous. Do not grip the handle, support the bow.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 15-04-06, 08:21 PM
Davros's Avatar
In the White
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Dorset
Posts: 34
High for recurve lower for U/L

Interesting subject, I'm experimenting myself. Have shot R/C for ten years with a high grip. In fact I had a KG1 for the first two years - super high grip. Changed to a PSE Zone R/C and didn't like the lower grip so I purchased a new KG1 grip and modified it to fit the PSE riser. I always imagined that the smaller area of contact with the handle reduced the margin of error of centre of pressure when compared to a low grip.
Recently I changed to U/L, again put my KG1 wooden grip onto it but does not shoot right! Something to do with the balance of the bow or perhaps the design? I observe that MOST U/L bows have very low grips is this for a reason?
I have now lowered the grip and after 6 mnths shooting short ranges only am getting 29 handicap scores.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 15-04-06, 08:31 PM
Bald Eagle's Avatar
It's an X
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Bowtech Allegiance
Sight: Copper John 2
Stabilisers: Fuse + Fuse sidestab
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Navigator FMJ's

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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: North Yorks
Posts: 1,254
I found with the hoyt tec compounds, grab hold of it, draw up, let your hand ride to the top of the throat and the bubble will settle central
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 15-04-06, 09:57 PM
greydog's Avatar
In the Gold
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Merlin XS
Sight: Copper John field
Stabilisers: Merlin Triad
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Pro Tour, X7's

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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 659
I think the reason you see alot of recurves shot with a high grip and compounds shot with a low one is mainly due to the way the different designs resist torque.
Recurves seem to be more torque resistant allowing you to go for a high hand position to get a nice line of force high up through the throat of the handle.
Compounds, especially the shorter you go on axle to axle length become easier to torque with a high hand grip unless you are very consistant with your wrist. A low hand grip just allows you to bypass most wrist movement and you can compensate for the slightly lower line of force through cam tuning, or sometimes tiller tuning.
In the end, neither is more accurate than the other, it all comes down to feel, personal preference and what you find most easily repeatable
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