Paper Tuning

[pwiles1968]

Ok for walk back, from the pictures I have seen the arrows will move out and back in again as you walk back (assuming you are out of tune), giving you sort of a semi circle or half moon thing, am I correct in saying for a compound you should move the rest in the opposite direction of the curve (I am right handed), i.e. if the arrows curve to the left move the sight slightly right and of course try again until you get a straight line.

Originally Posted by pwiles1968

Ok for walk back, from the pictures I have seen the arrows will move out and back in again as you walk back (assuming you are out of tune), giving you sort of a semi circle or half moon thing, am I correct in saying for a compound you should move the rest in the opposite direction of the curve (I am right handed), i.e. if the arrows curve to the left move the sight slightly right and of course try again until you get a straight line.

If the centre shot is off you will get a line not a curve in one direction or the other. The launcher needs to be moved in the oposite direction of the line/error. Little bits at a time. IE if the line goes right, move the launcher left. The curve you mention is more common with a recurve and a pressure button. I don't think a curve is normal with a compound bow, unless you cant the bow in a variable way at different distances. This has nothing to do with error in the bow, it's error in the archer.

It is important that no cant of the bow is introduced when doing a walkback. Pay attention to the bubble and make sure your form is good. A canted bow may give the impresion that the centre shot is wrong, when infact it may be OK. Likewise make sure you sight, scope and bubble is all set right before you tune.

I have all this to come in a few weeks time....Do it...I lost a lot of points last year due to errors in tune, only apparent during a distance change. I had to adjust my sight to accomodate centre shot error. It took a few ends to nail the 9/10 ring again at each distance change. I was a victim of not understanding the importance of bow setup and not using my bubble or setting my centre shot properly. We live and learn.

[Rik]

Originally Posted by pwiles1968

What Have I started, All I really wanted to know was it a good method to get a decent centre shot, I have done it by eye but my arrows are still fishtailing a bit and it is annoying me I wanted to sort it or reduce it

How did you do it by eye? One quick method, is to set the scope in line with the string, then adjust the rest postion until the arrows are hitting where the sight is pointing.

But you need to know where "in line with the string" is on your bow, it's not usually in the middle of the limbs, as it is on a recurve. On mine, I found that I needed to find the line between the cams, where the string leaves them. I measured that and marked it at the base of the limbs (masking tape is useful there) which gave me a reference point for setting the scope position. It's just approximate, but it seemed like a good starting position.

[pwiles1968]

Originally Posted by Rik

How did you do it by eye? One quick method, is to set the scope in line with the string, then adjust the rest postion until the arrows are hitting where the sight is pointing.

But you need to know where "in line with the string" is on your bow, it's not usually in the middle of the limbs, as it is on a recurve. On mine, I found that I needed to find the line between the cams, where the string leaves them. I measured that and marked it at the base of the limbs (masking tape is useful there) which gave me a reference point for setting the scope position. It's just approximate, but it seemed like a good starting position.

It looks like the same way you have, I measured the cam position in the limbs, marked the position's onto tape I placed on the limbs near the riser used these marks as sight points to line up to and than made sure the end of the arrow was also in line.

I do not think it is too far out to be honest, nearly all my shots are hitting within the 7/9 ring area of an 80cm target from 40M in wind and rain, I am guessing that is not too bad for someone who had never picked a bow up before January and only owned a compound for 5 weeks, I still have a little fishtail which may well be my form but I want to do a quick check. Im not going to spend ages on it.

THX RGS - I will keep an eye on bow level.

Originally Posted by pwiles1968

It looks like the same way you have, I measured the cam position in the limbs, marked the position's onto tape I placed on the limbs near the riser used these marks as sight points to line up to and than made sure the end of the arrow was also in line.

Hi Paul,

Not sure about your Hoyt Cybertec, but my 2003 Ultratec has offset cams ( cam &1/2) this makes the bow string follow a slight slant from the vertical. This makes aligning by the method described a little difficult. The only point where the string is considered to be streight is where the "D" loop is fitted. The launcher needs to line up with that point only. No other reference on the string is of any use.

[Adam]

I'm pretty certain that ALL Hoyt Tec models from the last 4 years to the present day have a centre shot approx. 20-21mm from the inside face of the sight window.

Suggest you set the centre of the launcher arm 21mm from the sight window and walk-back tune.

If the line of arrows looks like this / move the launcher to the right. If it looks like \ move it to the left. I've assumed you're right handed. If not, reverse the process.

Adam

[Marcus26]

How did you do it by eye? One quick method, is to set the scope in line with the string, then adjust the rest postion until the arrows are hitting where the sight is pointing.

Doesn't work this way.
Due to the torque induced by the cable guard a correctly setup compound bow will have the scope outside of centre. If you try and tune with the scope down the middle you will get poor results.

My process is
Set the centreshot so that the arrow is running down the centre of the string
Set the nocking point high enough so that I don't get contact
Sight in at 18m
Go outside and shoot 70m. If my windage changes move rest. (so if the arrows land to the left move the rest to the right slightly)
Do this till I am hitting the middle at 18m and 70m.

Then shoot and enjoy.

Originally Posted by Marcus26

My process is
Set the centreshot so that the arrow is running down the centre of the string
Set the nocking point high enough so that I don't get contact
Sight in at 18m
Go outside and shoot 70m. If my windage changes move rest. (so if the arrows land to the left move the rest to the right slightly)
Do this till I am hitting the middle at 18m and 70m.

Then shoot and enjoy.

Oh I like this, a new method name is born. not a walkback, more a "Walk outside from the inside test"

Sounds quite painless Marcus. Cheers

[geoffretired]

Knowing where the centre shot position is on a bow is of value. Knowing how to work it out for yourself is interesting to some, me included. Knowing where your arrow rest needs to be to get the best from your arrows,is more important, I feel. If it coincides with true centre shot , so be it, if not so what? If it is wildly out, then perhaps something needs looking at. When the best position is found by shooting arrows, is that not the time to start recording the distance from some easily used point on the riser? If things get taken off, they can be returned to the same place with little waste of time. It's very similar to sight marks really. We spend time finding our own, and record them so the sight can be replaced easily another time. We rarely find our sight marks using some reference point but we manage to work them out eventually.

[pwiles1968]

Originally Posted by rgsphoto

Oh I like this, a new method name is born. not a walkback, more a "Walk outside from the inside test"

Sounds quite painless Marcus. Cheers

Or the Jump back test, at 52m that must be the Long Jump Back Method