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| just use double sided tape. |
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| What you use may be determined by how far you are prepared to go to get the side plates to stick. My first reaction is to say Arrowmate archers' glue. That will hold metal to wood. It will come off at a later date should you want to put the bow back to its original state. Stronger still is Araldite, but that is very close to permanent. Somewhere between is car body filler in a thin layer. I have used all at some time or another, but I am not concerned about the cosmetics of the join, just the holding power. Arrowmate is the least likely to show and the easiest to remove if you need to. |
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| I'm with Fox, double sided tape would do it and you could still remove the plates later if you wished. |
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| Glue the plates to a piece of ordinary photocopy paper and glue the paper to the riser. Use araldite. You can split the paper to remove the plates. Then scrape off any residue of araldite from the pieces.I turn all sorts of material on wood and metal lathes like this. Not too many mishaps. On wood it is a strong and sturdy bond. But the laminates split apart with a thin swiss army knife blade. |
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| Maybe you should TIG weld them in place? |
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| Why not bolt them in place. Drill and Tap the riser. Or if there are holes, use threaded inserts in the centre to screw the bolts or machine screws into. |
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| Drilling and tapping a riser is a really bad idea, especially around the highly stressed grip area, you really need to know what you are doing before adding possible stress risers in them. For god's sake, I have a switchback as does a good friend of mine, we both just used double sided tape and we have had no problems. |
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| Try double sided carpet tape. A little stronger than regular. Stick it and see. |
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