Vane position/angle

[h20vrrq]

As there has been a bit of discussion about vanes recently, it got me thinking about how I will set up my new arrows (must order them soon).

For compound archers using realease aid and D-Loop, how close to the nock should the vanes (EP's) be?

Also, should they be fletched straight or angled? If angled at what degree?

Originally Posted by h20vrrq

As there has been a bit of discussion about vanes recently, it got me thinking about how I will set up my new arrows (must order them soon).

For compound archers using realease aid and D-Loop, how close to the nock should the vanes (EP's) be?

Also, should they be fletched straight or angled? If angled at what degree?

It's not a critical distance, fletch to nock. I used to fletch them quite close say 1/2" from the back of the nock, but it really does not matter that much. Re angle a bit of offset is good, just a bit mind, about 1mm front to back will be fine.

[flamingbladerider]

Anything up to 1" away from the nock is okay.

[greydog]

For compound, fletch as far back as is practical, the further back they are, the more effective they are. Recurve shooters need to leave enough space for fingers not to interfere with the fletchings during release, but the same principle applies.

A little offset is good, as rgsphoto said, too much can create excessive drag though and your arrows will parachute at the longer distances, no more than 2 degrees offset for outdoors is the general rule, assuming you're going with a small fletching.

[Christopher Lee]

Hmm ... if I may - there's an opinion that any facial contact with fletching at full draw may be extremely detrimental as you're launching an arrow with sideway force applied to it right from the start. Dave Cousins has his miles away from the rear and shoots back-to-back 1400s.

How far forward you need to set the fletch also depends on the height of the fletch and what material they're made of (stiff or soft). Profile probably has less to do with it, unless you're shooting a shield cut fletch where the highest part of the fletch is right at the back.

Extreme offset is probably not so much an issue as clearance. I've used strong helicals even for 90m with no problems as we're looking at relatively small surface areas of target fletches. Try a few variations on sets of 3 arrows and see what works best for you.

CHEERS!

It's highly unlikely that you will get face contact from a fletch on a compound bow. Stick em 1/2 to 3/4" from the nock and they will be fine. As Greydog says, the further back thay are the more effective they are, but only a bit. 1/4 either way won't make much difference.

Don't get too hung up about this, stick em on and go practice.

[Christopher Lee]

Originally Posted by rgsphoto

Don't get too hung up about this, stick em on and go practice.

Absolutely! Unless you're a money shooter, or shooting 1399 and desperately need that extra point, most (not all) technical discussions tend to be more academic in nature and the danger is that we canget caught up obsessing over them. LOL! I strongly suspect such small variants would not make a single bit of difference for those shooting under mid/high 1300s anyway.

[greydog]

Originally Posted by Christopher Lee

Hmm ... if I may - there's an opinion that any facial contact with fletching at full draw may be extremely detrimental as you're launching an arrow with sideway force applied to it right from the start. Dave Cousins has his miles away from the rear and shoots back-to-back 1400s.

How far forward you need to set the fletch also depends on the height of the fletch and what material they're made of (stiff or soft). Profile probably has less to do with it, unless you're shooting a shield cut fletch where the highest part of the fletch is right at the back.

Extreme offset is probably not so much an issue as clearance. I've used strong helicals even for 90m with no problems as we're looking at relatively small surface areas of target fletches. Try a few variations on sets of 3 arrows and see what works best for you.

CHEERS!

I think if you are burying the fletchings in your face you've either fletched your fingers, or your draw lengths too long

No matter what size, shape or material your fletchings are, the further forward you put them, the less effective they become at stabilising the arrow quickley, that's not to say that fletching level with the nock will be better than an inch from the nock, but why would you need to fletch further forward than that?

Extreme helical will cause you contact problems as you stated (ignoring fall away rests), but your draw length and poundage combined with the type of arrow can create problems for archers if combined with alot of offset on the fletchings. If you are struggling to reach 90M comfortably, too much offset can be the last straw as the extra drag takes that little bit too much energy out of the arrow. You only need alot of offset if the arrow has to stabilise in a very short distance, out past 50m there's no advantage to alot of offset as the arrow has more time to level out.

[sam]

for my indoor arrows i have alot of offset and i use qwikspins because i like a slow arrow and for out doors anywhere between 1/4'' and 1 1/4'' with 1-2 degrees of offset is considerd to be effective

[Christopher Lee]

Originally Posted by greydog

I think if you are burying the fletchings in your face you've either fletched your fingers, or your draw lengths too long

BLIMEY! So that's why I seem to always have them lil bits and pieces stuck on me fingers! LOL!

But seriously, have you seen how far forward Dave Cousins have his fletches? It's obviously forward, yet this guy shoots back to back 1400s with his fletchings so far forward.

I try to get them as far back as it's comfortable.