Punt?

[Marcus26]

Which grip was on the Bowtech?
If it was a wood grip you can order it with the Shrewd grip which is a machined grip.
If it was a wood grip then the 2006 Target models come with a Shrewd and you can order the hunting models with a Shrewd.
Here is a my 2006 Allegiance with a Shrewd grip I had them build at the factory.

[geoffretired]

The Loesch is not the same as most other back tension releases. The normal ones have the handle as the trigger and as you draw further round, the handle eventually moves into the position that triggers the shot. The handle is like a huge trigger. The Loesch has a handle that has to be pulled but it does not have to move into any special position. So long as you pull hard enough it will release. The easiest way to imagine it is to think that the hook snaps off when you pull hard enough. It is just about impossible to anticipate because there is no movement as such. The ember is very sweet to use and very ergonomic. The only reason I selected the Loesch eventually was because of my situation at the time. With the ember, triggering could be done two ways.One, squeeze the hand slowly , which pushed the handle and the trigger towards each other, causing the release. Two, pull harder so the hand had to hang on harder which caused it to automatically tighten and set it off. Sometimes I sqeezed and sometimes I pulled and sometimes I did some of each. This was giving variations that I could do without, I had enough to do with TP at the time.
Both are very good, both require the archer to operate them properly. I think it is easier to get the trigger ones wrong, so you hit the trigger and possibly anticipate the release. If you want to ask other questions, just let me know.
By the way, getting the recurve and compound references the same is likely to be difficult. The recurve archer tends to have the string hand under the chin and the compound with hand held release tends to be on the side of the face. This puts the body in different positions and, you know the rest.In the past, many people who changed, went for the same bow draw length, meaning their body was overdrawn, this produced floating anchors( the hand was in mid air)
So, expect to use a shorter bow set up.

[kato]

Originally Posted by Marcus26

Which grip was on the Bowtech?
If it was a wood grip you can order it with the Shrewd grip which is a machined grip.
If it was a wood grip then the 2006 Target models come with a Shrewd and you can order the hunting models with a Shrewd.
Here is a my 2006 Allegiance with a Shrewd grip I had them build at the factory.

It was the '06 with Shrewd grip...I think it's just a little on the narrow side for me to aim and hold comfortably [Helix grip is my comfort zone]

This could just as easily be a function of too many new things to think about at the same time: different draw/anchor /release etc and I might be unfairly attributing too much to the grip. Will revisit next week as they think I'm borderline on draw length for the Allegiance and I'm getting an Old Glory to try.

Question, if I may: If it turns out that I have to go the OG route, and given the consequent loss in speed this would entail over Allegiance, bringing it down to where the others live...is it your view that Bowtech still has a significant edge over the others?

[Marcus26]

I don't just shoot the Bowtechs because of their speed. I shoot them because they hold steadier than any other bow I have shot and and excellently made and great value for money. In Australia the Bowtech is $500 cheaper than a UltraElite and performs as well (if not better).

I would recommend trying one with the wood grip then. I used one with the wood last year and liked it alot, it's very comfortable and well made.
Keep in mind also that recurve bows are built so you slot your hand in and it forces the correct grip. Compounds are touchier left-right than recurves so can't do that. The key is finding the correct position and setting your hand at the start of your draw and keeping it there.

Here is my old BT with the wood grip.

[kato]

Originally Posted by Marcus26

I don't just shoot the Bowtechs because of their speed. I shoot them because they hold steadier than any other bow I have shot and and excellently made and great value for money. In Australia the Bowtech is $500 cheaper than a UltraElite and performs as well (if not better).

I would recommend trying one with the wood grip then. I used one with the wood last year and liked it alot, it's very comfortable and well made.
Keep in mind also that recurve bows are built so you slot your hand in and it forces the correct grip. Compounds are touchier left-right than recurves so can't do that. The key is finding the correct position and setting your hand at the start of your draw and keeping it there.

Here is my old BT with the wood grip.

thanks...

btw... I'd be inclined to lose all the 'rubbers' as well...is that ok to do or are they there to prolong limb life? and is there a warranty issue ?

[kato]

Originally Posted by geoffretired

The Loesch is not the same as most other back tension releases. The normal ones have the handle as the trigger and as you draw further round, the handle eventually moves into the position that triggers the shot. The handle is like a huge trigger. The Loesch has a handle that has to be pulled but it does not have to move into any special position. So long as you pull hard enough it will release. The easiest way to imagine it is to think that the hook snaps off when you pull hard enough. It is just about impossible to anticipate because there is no movement as such. The ember is very sweet to use and very ergonomic. The only reason I selected the Loesch eventually was because of my situation at the time. With the ember, triggering could be done two ways.One, squeeze the hand slowly , which pushed the handle and the trigger towards each other, causing the release. Two, pull harder so the hand had to hang on harder which caused it to automatically tighten and set it off. Sometimes I sqeezed and sometimes I pulled and sometimes I did some of each. This was giving variations that I could do without, I had enough to do with TP at the time.
Both are very good, both require the archer to operate them properly. I think it is easier to get the trigger ones wrong, so you hit the trigger and possibly anticipate the release. If you want to ask other questions, just let me know.
By the way, getting the recurve and compound references the same is likely to be difficult. The recurve archer tends to have the string hand under the chin and the compound with hand held release tends to be on the side of the face. This puts the body in different positions and, you know the rest.In the past, many people who changed, went for the same bow draw length, meaning their body was overdrawn, this produced floating anchors( the hand was in mid air)
So, expect to use a shorter bow set up.

thanks...

I'm leaning towards BT as well... hoping to use it to cure myself of drifting into using my upper traps when I get tired/forgetful

[Marcus26]

Originally Posted by kato

thanks...

btw... I'd be inclined to lose all the 'rubbers' as well...is that ok to do or are they there to prolong limb life? and is there a warranty issue ?

No issue at all. I would suggest cutting them off instead of removing the limbs to take them off. They don't make much different. My bow is also my demo bow for customers to try and even without the rubbers the bow simply sells itself.

[kato]

Originally Posted by Marcus26

No issue at all. I would suggest cutting them off instead of removing the limbs to take them off. They don't make much different. My bow is also my demo bow for customers to try and even without the rubbers the bow simply sells itself.

Thanks, appreciate the time..I will enquire after the wood grip

May be able to send you a picture of 'my' BT soon...unless shallowness takes hold...that Apex is so damn sexy...

[Marcus26]

The Apex 7 is a great bow. I had a gold one in stock for a few months and was very pleased to see it go, it would temp me everytime I walked past. LOL.
Just too expensive for me to warrent one. (I employed the points vs $$$ chart to determine it's worth upgrading. ie. Would it cost me more money? Yes. Would it give me more points? No.
However I do sometimes ignore the chart. )

[kato]

Originally Posted by Marcus26

The Apex 7 is a great bow. I had a gold one in stock for a few months and was very pleased to see it go, it would temp me everytime I walked past. LOL.
Just too expensive for me to warrent one. (I employed the points vs $$$ chart to determine it's worth upgrading. ie. Would it cost me more money? Yes. Would it give me more points? No.
However I do sometimes ignore the chart. )

value equation is slightly different here though...e.g. price diff betwn BT Allegiance and Hoyt Ultrelite is around £100 as opposed to £200 in Aus...
admittedly the Apex is a little more...

My brain tells me to go for the Old Glory...maintenance free cams...easily adjustable draw length...cheap upgrade to speed cams later

but...

also, points equation doesn't apply to me at this juncture as I'm bound to suck with both initially

guess it comes down to whether I'm prepared to wear the cost of a cam change when I [inevitably] discover my initial drawlength is out by1/2 an inches

btw...does your assessment re BT v Hoyt Ultraelite still hold true in 06 as when you first swapped over? I notice they describe the cam 1/2 as 'slaved' and 'immune to timing variations' now