Nocking Point

[Jerry Tee]

The nocking point should not change with the diameter of the arrow the height of the arrow rest should be changed to center the arrow in line with the center of the button hole. Where you set the nocking point will vary according to the type of bow. I usually end up about 1mm above zero on my Pro Eagle.This gives me a bear shaft position about two inches low at 20 yds.

[Flying Whale]

Originally Posted by Jerry Tee

The nocking point should not change with the diameter of the arrow the height of the arrow rest should be changed to center the arrow in line with the center of the button hole. Where you set the nocking point will vary according to the type of bow. I usually end up about 1mm above zero on my Pro Eagle.This gives me a bear shaft position about two inches low at 20 yds.

That doesn't seem intuitively correct.

I agree that it seems correct that the rest should be adjusted so that the centre line of the arow remains at the same height. However, surely the bottom nocking point should also be adjusted to keep the centre point of the arrow at the same height, and thus the arrow orientation the same (not the outside edge of the arrow), After all if you have very fat arrow, you must adjust either the top, or the bottom knowcking point, otherwise the arrow will not fit between them.

If I am just being a dense recurve archer intruding in to technical subjects I do not understand, pleas just ignore me. [I am really just a bear of very little brain]

[Jerry Tee]

I think you will find that the nocks are the same size. Fat boys use a uni bush and G nock.
Ask your self this question 'If you were shooting ACE's out side and X7's indoors what would you change?' If the nocks were about the same thickness you would drop the arrow rest and line up the arrow with the center of the button. Compound archers mostly don't use a button so do not have a a visible reference for arrow height. I shoot off fingers so my compound is fitted with a mag flipper rest and button.

[Flying Whale]

Originally Posted by Jerry Tee

I think you will find that the nocks are the same size. Fat boys use a uni bush and G nock.
Ask your self this question 'If you were shooting ACE's out side and X7's indoors what would you change?' If the nocks were about the same thickness you would drop the arrow rest and line up the arrow with the center of the button. Compound archers mostly don't use a button so do not have a a visible reference for arrow height. I shoot off fingers so my compound is fitted with a mag flipper rest and button.

In that case, I would agree that what you say makes sense...

As I said I am just a relatively green recurve archer. Maybe I am fairly unusual. I have been shooting for 15-18 months, and have changed very little. Still on the sam eriser, linbs, sight, stabiliser... The one thing I have changed this year was the move to ACE arrow.

[Jerry Tee]

If you don't ask, you don't find out. Take away the release aid and there's not a lot of difference between compound and recurve.

[wingate_52]

I change string button and arrow rest as well as arrows for shooting indoor and out. Beiter nocks indoors eastons outdoors. The arrows are centred on the button and the nocks sit 6mm above horizontal top of the button.

[jadlem]

For my Hoyt and shiny new Mathews Switchback I've always set the arrow rest bang on square level with the shelf as close to the centre line of the bow as possible. On my hoyt this was really close to the shelf but got the most welly out of the bow. On my new switchback I've got it plum with the button hole as this is the centre of the power stroke on the string.

Nock travel is the most important thing to consider with the nocking point position. Once you are getting the most power out of the bow that you can it's all a matter of fine tuning. My best groups are now shot having tweaked the arrow rest up 1mm rather than adjusting the nocking point.

Try as many different things out but remember to get the most out of the bow and then worry about consistent groups. It's useless having great groups but wasting 10-20% of the energy of the bow, especially if you want to shoot heavy wind busting arrows at long distance.

Hope this helps.

[Merlin Archery]

It's useless having great groups but wasting 10-20% of the energy of the bow

You can waste 10-20% of the bows energy because of nocking point position? I think you are a bit off there...

There is no fixed nocking point height that goes across the board. It's just one aspect of tuning, and you adjust it in small increments to find the best grouping. And in my opinion grouping should be No.1 on your hit list of bow set up.

[jadlem]

I've seen lots of bows set up with the rest and nocking point level with the button hole when they should be closer to the centre of the bow. I have changed at least 3 bows which have been set up in this way and managed to improve the sight marks on them by a considerable amount, in one particular example we changed to heavier arrows at the same time and managed to get a 10 fps improvement over the previous set up, the arrows were 45 grains heavier!

I would love to think that it's a little bit off but there are lots of people out there with bows that are set up according to convention, not what is most effective/efficient etc.

[Jerry Tee]

I was always taught that the button hole was the center of the bow and all the tuning I have done on my Pro Eagle bears this out. I use a button and flipper rest, tiller of the bow is zero and the nocking point is at zero as well As for nock travel I know it is level That is one of the things you can count on with an Oneida.