which long rod ??

[Alex Greig]

I do find that my Doinker longrod has smoothed out the shot a lot more than my old Beiter rod

[whisky]

Originally Posted by Alex Greig

I do find that my Doinker longrod has smoothed out the shot a lot more than my old Beiter rod

couldn't agree more!

[Reg]

I've always felt the multi rod style stabilisers were too prone to flexing for my liking, so making it lighter may increase this, although they seem to have spaced the rods further apart to compensate. I guess it will depend on what sort of weighting system they provide as to how much control you have over the mass weight, they just look like little spacers on the website.

So far, no evidence of flexing. The extra carbon rod may help with this (4 as opposed to the Beiters 3) They are simply plastic spacers but I believe weights can be fixed into them if required. They do may a heavy version as well.

I'm a bit wary of over-light long rods. To stop the rod kicking-up on release you end up adding weigh to the far end. This creates a pendulum effect and means it takes longer for the bow to settle into a steady aim. What you really want is evenly distibuted weight, over sufficient length to properly stabilize the bow. If you can get this with a thin rod (to reduce air resistance), so much the better.

At the moment I'm using the rod with no end weight - as such what weight there is is evenly distributed and I haven't noticed the rod kicking up. Was initially looking to simply reduce the weight in hand but have found the rod has quietened the bow consideraby in comparison to the Arten carbon I was using previously Need to get on the line more and shoot the ruddy thing but initial impressions are quite good.

[Zanda]

Thanks Christopher, a very usefull link

[Zanda]

Thanks Reg

[Marcus26]

I use a Vibracheck Fat Free with a Doinker Abomb and an extra weight on the end. Like it alot. One of the neat parts to this stabilizer is that the weight is rear mounted so all the mass is not out the front. Stabilizes nice.
I like the quality of the Doinkers but not the weight, too light for me.
I am getting the urge to try a Beiter again though, problem is my current setup looks sweet!.

[OpaNL]

What nobody mentioned yet: lenght.
Find a rod just long enough to rest your bow on comfortably between shots.
Otherwise lenght is not critical, it's the combo of the lenght/endweight that does the job. Shorter rod, more endweight, longer rod less endweight.
So unless you are very picky about total bow weight, I would choose a lenght as said before, and then add/remove endweight until you get a good balance.
I do it like this: Put on the stab, shoot, and let someone else observe the end of the stab. if it kicks high with the shot, add some weight, otherwise take some weight off, until it stays level. Works for my bow.. Anyway, don't just screw something on, try to experiment a bit and see what works for you.

Finally just a remark: Stabs are there to stabelize your bow and get the center of gravity right, that is what you need to go for.
Damping vibrations is just an extra you (might) get, although when I read other forums it sometimes seems that is the only thing that matters.

And one more advise: get a quick disconnect too: it saves the threading in your riser, and makes setting up your bow so much easier.

Peter

[Watch_Man]

Sebastien Flute SHC Longrod from Custom Built. Also use a Fuse Axiom 4" Hunter Stabilizer in place of the longrod when windy.

[wingate_52]

One of the reasons that I bought the Doinker system was the suppressor system. Very effective.

[Freakmode]

You could always consider one of these. A guy at my club shoots one and they feel really good.

http://bigdawgarchery.com/index.html