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| How long are the exposed part of the points on your fatboy arrows, there was a spate of X10's breaking behind the end of the pile when shot into new or very hard bosses due to the length of the exposed point and ridgidity of the pile within the shaft, the smaller tungsten points didn't cause such problems and the stanless ones have a little more bendability. It would be my belief that the pile is way too stiff for the very flexible shaft.
__________________ Gliddy glub gloopy,Nibby nabby noopy,La la la lo lo, Sabba sibby sabba,Nooby abba nabba,Le le lo lo, Tooby ooby walla,Nooby abba naba, Early morning singing song |
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| To keep the weight down on the FatBoys the walls are relatively thin, so shooting them from a fast bow into hard straw bosses won't do them any good ........ it's even worse if you have large spin vanes on there, the carbon twists apart ![]() |
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| Hmmm, they`ll soon be known as "crackboys" |
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| Only shooting them from a recurve, but no problems so far. I shoot them each week, but rotate the 14 I have. I do get through Beiter 19/1 nocks though! The Fatboys do clang when they group well, but no damageto either the shafts or 5" feathers. I used to shoot them with 80 gn points. Now they have 100 gn, but I am thinking of increasing the weight when I get my new Winex limbs. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| yeah with greydog on this one. The Fatboy is NOT a good indoor arrow, particulary when shooting into straw based materials which in effect are like taking to the arrow with fine sand paper everytime you shoot. Because of the large surface area and thin walls they will wear down very very fast. I get about 6-12 weeks out of my 2315's indoor, so imagine what is happening to a thin walled carbon. Save your money and use alloys indoors. I use Fatboys in 3D happily where I want the speed and don't mind if they break. Also on another note the Fatboy is only 8.83mm in diamtre while a 2315 is 9.27mm, so you are throwing away points. ![]()
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| thanks for the feedback. I'm using 4" feathers and am very pleased with the arrows apart from the two that cracked. I thin nxt season I will try something else but continue this year with the fatboys - or till I get down to 8 of them My wife is using Carbon Express linejammers and they seem superior to the Fatboys. They were also cheaper! | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Another possibility is that the points where overheated before they were inserted. I used to have some carbontech's which are another all carbon shaft and the resin which binds the carbon together could be weakened if the points where overheated when the arrows were assembled. I always built my own arrows so I could be sure that wasn't going to be a problem. Generally greydog is right all carbon arrows are going to find it hard indoor's, particularly if shot into some of these harder European straw bosses which have been used in competitions recently. They are unforgiving on any arrow! | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Mine are fine I have shot my current arrows all last indoor season (twice a week) and at comps on straw bossess no problems. I have now installed 150 grain points and they are fine in the foam boss with a fast 57lb bow. When I installed the points I heated only the part where the glue would go and only enough to just melt the glue. One thing I did notice when shooting them today was that the bottom 4" of the arrow was warm and that I was starting to get melted foam on the arrow we use thick hard packing type card board for the target faces so I am not sure where the heat is coming from. I only shoot fatboys on a single spot face because they get damaged when they group and boy can they group. Fugue has a very valid point with regards to delamination of carbon, and this is true for all arrows AC or pure carbon.
__________________ See the light and come over to the DARKSIDE ![]() My bow can shoot itself, I just go along to stop it winning competitions |
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