Spigarelli Top Rest - How long is a piece of string?

[MikeD]

I bought a Spigarelli Top Rest along with the recommended spring to replace the rubber tube. There are no instructions with the rest and some help from the Alternative Sporting Services web site, but not enough for my old and feeble brain

Actually most of it is fine. However it ends up with a very wooly 'tie a bit of serving thread between the spring and one of the cables. I guess I should tie the serving thread to the cable below the cable guard, at roughly 90 degrees and with no slack? What knot should I use to tie it to the cable? Do I need to make adjustments by moving the position of the knot, or will it all just work?

Finally...

With a drop away rest do I just set up for bullet holes in a paper test at 1m, 5m, 15m, or is it still likely to give best groups with a slightly high left tear?

[pwiles1968]

I recently bought a TKO and use it is drop away I had a couple of issues, I actually use the cable slider to tie the rope off on my Bowtech as it already has an attachment loop, For cable attachment I think Greydog recommended attaching to the power cable, the one that moves down when you draw the bow that way the rope is well out of the way and no chance of clearance issues, the one thing you need to make sure is that the rest pulls up at the last possible minute that last inch or two of draw.

I did get some instructions with my rest showing you how to attach the rope to a cable, I can scan that bit in and mail it to you if you want just PM me your mail.

Edit - Assuming you are using a release aid I would go for bullet of slight tail high tear, somone please feel free to correct me if there is a good reason why not to.

[KevinH]

mine is like this;




The attachment to the downward cable, needs to be movable for adjusting where the rest drops, but tight enough so that it does not move by itself. I have just used a series of overhand knots, and this seems to work fine.

[Nightimer]

I have set up one of these rests in the past, and after much adjustment discarded it.
You have to set the string/spring to lift the arrow within 1-2 inches before full draw.
This is vital, as if you lift the arrow too soon it will give clearance problems.
You should be able to get this by moving the string up and down the cable.
When happy a little bit of serving should hold it still.
As far as paper tests go all I do is one at longrod length the another a few feet further back (all tests done with sight and long rod REMOVED).
I then do a bare shaft test as final check.
To be honest I have tried many rests including the Air Rest,trapdoor and golden premier but I find the Trophy Taker spring steel rest is the best one I have come across.
It is simple and reliable without loads of springs,screws and bits of rubber.
But as with all things in archery the choice is YOURS.

Good luck
Nightimer

[geoffretired]

Mike, I would tie the string to the cable(going down) with a few good knots. Then experiment with where on the cable, by sliding it up and down until it drops when you want it. Then serve above and below to keep it in place. If anything goes wrong, the servings are still there to mark the spot. If you want to go to the next stage, you would have several strings all made the same length, with a loop on each end. To fit to the spring, pass one loop through the spring loop, then pass one string loop through the other and pull tight. The free loop is then fixed to the cable between the servings. To do that all you need is a length of serving, pass it through the loop and tie between the servings on the cable. This sounds complicated but you can replace one at a competition very quickly, if the need arises.
As for bullet holes v tail up tear; I would start with bullet holes to see how well you can get it set up. Then shoot it and see what the groups look like. After that, experiment with small drops in the arrow rest to give tail up tears. Compare the results. You might even try raising the rest!

[pwiles1968]

If it was me I would try this without the spring in place, use decent quality rope (D-Loop Material) and connect directly from power cable to the rest, that way there is much less there to break stretch etc.

Even try and buy a cable guard with built in loop for attaching the rope to, sure I have seen them for sale as seperate items.

Found one but in the US this is replacement for the Quick tune Guide so may be able to get in the UK
QT Guide Here

[MikeD]

Thanks all, makes sense now and the picture is excellent.

[pyroarch57]

Mike,

The easiest way to do this is to is part the yoke cable at the desired position then feed the rope through, it will hold tight enough for you to draw up and get the right setting.
Once you have found that, just tie a knot in the rope and serve 1/2" above it.

Ideally the rest should support the arrow for the first 3-4" of travel.

[MikeD]

Well it's fitted and set up after a lot of mucking about. I'll try it tonight and tomorrow, but if it's not the dogs wotsits to shoot, it will be back to the Golden Key Premier for the weekend.

What a 'Heath Robinson' gizmo (for those old enough to remember Heath Robinson. There are far too many ways it can go wrong. At least it follows his first law. 'You cannot push with a piece of string'.

The only thing in its favour is metric allen keys...

[pwiles1968]

Originally Posted by MikeD

At least it follows his first law. 'You cannot push with a piece of string'.

Is that not what we do every day, push and arrow with a piece of string