Spring steel rest help

[chryd]

Originally Posted by Adam

What are you using for the nocking point?

I was referring to the new system Marcus is using, where there is only a single nocking point underneath the arrow. I don't have a problem when I use two nocking points, it's when I only use a single nocking point that I find the d-loop slides down. Hope that's clearer

Chris.

[Adam]

Originally Posted by chryd

I was referring to the new system Marcus is using, where there is only a single nocking point underneath the arrow. I don't have a problem when I use two nocking points, it's when I only use a single nocking point that I find the d-loop slides down. Hope that's clearer

Chris.

I understood that. I just wanted to know what you use to make the nocking point? Serving? Dental floss? Brass nock? etc

Adam

[geoffretired]

To keep the d-loop in place without the brass nock sets, I serve two loops into the centre serving when making the string. One loop peeps out of the serving above the nock point and the other below. The ends of the loops are farther apart than I want the d-loop ends to be when in place. Make the D-loop on the string as normal, but thread one end through each loop at the beginning and make the knots after. The d-loop will close towards the nock a little in the first few arrows, after that it is fixed.

[chryd]

Originally Posted by Adam

I understood that. I just wanted to know what you use to make the nocking point? Serving? Dental floss? Brass nock? etc

Ah, sorry about that I use a tied on nocking point using BCY nock point thread (basically seems the same as .25 serving...).

Chris.

[Marcus26]

Mine doesn't move Chris
If the DNAND system works for you then use that one.
What material are you using for Dloop?

[niceguy]

Another way to get the loop offset while using a tied nocking point above and below the arrow is simply to make the lower nocking point twice the length of the upper point. I don't like the idea of the loop knot bearing on the arrow nock and I've had the upper knot move inwards. I use the thinnest braided serving I can get and keep the upper serving down to 4 turns, I then paint it with super glue and it never moves or comes undone even though it ain't very big. By carefully controlling the glue application it's possible to prevent the glue from penetrating too far into the centre serving making removal easy with a sharp blade. The lower nocking point I make 6-8 turns. Even though these nocking points are relatively small it still spreads the D loop more than I like so lately I've been making both nocking points the same and I've not noticed any clearance issues or loss of grouping while using a spring steel blade. I make my own but I don't think that has anything to do with it. As I said in an earlier post I think clearance issues have more to do with arrow and string dynamics rather than bits of serving tied on the string. Just my opinion. By the way, I've just put my Carter Evolution on ebay if anyone is interested

lRegards to all

[Merlin Archery]

I love the fixed blade type arrow rest and have also found tuning easier when the loop is lower down the string. I saw a picture of a d-loop that Clint Freeman uses. A small, neat d-loop completly under the arrow. I've been meaning to try this style, but wondered if anyone has actually made it and knows how to do it? It's hard to tell from the picture I saw in the bow mag.

http://www.dudleyarchery.info/articles/biissue34.pdf

[niceguy]

Ben

The under nock loop you are refering to is I think a variation on the catfish loop which is formed in situ. A bit like knitting a warm pully. The problem with the under loop is that it lifts the back of the arrow causing the scope to be lower. A problem for some (including me) at long distances, my arrows only just clear the scope as it is.

I can hear it coming " what you need is a new XS with viper cams, fast and flat, no scope clearance problems"

Regards

[chryd]

Originally Posted by Marcus26

Mine doesn't move Chris
If the DNAND system works for you then use that one.
What material are you using for Dloop?

I've used various materials: the stuff that ships with carter release aids, Brownell braided.078 D-loop material, BCY 24 release loop (what I'm using at the moment, I think).

I must admit I've not tried your DAND system for a while and I've increased my draw weight a bit since I last tried it, so maybe a higher draw weight would keep the d-loop knot tightly gripped to the serving...

Chris.

[geoffretired]

Ben, I have used the d-loop under and over. I used under for target shooting and over for clout as it put the point of aim in the sight window. I had to raise/lower the arrow rest when changing from one to the other as the string travel changes with each system.
Looking at the website, it seems it is made the same way I used.
Wrap some bowstring round an object like a D cell battery(or two dowels 1 1/2 " apart) Ten laps of the object will do. Peel the wrappings carefully off the object and tie the ends securely together to make an endless loop.( like the early stages of a bowstring making in miniature) Wrap the loop round the bowstring putting one end through the other when they meet. Pull the threaded end tight and adjust its position on the string. It will never come off, but it needs fixing so it doesn't come loose. To fix, thread some serving through the loop you are going to use as the D. Take both ends round the bowstring in opposite directions and tie off.
The separate strands of bowstring can be served together in the loop otherwise the release may separate them and cause loose ends to pull through.