Need help in setting up a thingamy

[Colin KC]

Hi,

As a newbie to the forum and those new fangled wheelie things, I thought I'd ask for some advice.

I have recently purchased a used, nekkid HOYT MAGNATEC XT 2000 & don't know the first place to start to get it set up.

Can anyone help, please?

[abcwarrior]

Hi.
I'm also a newbie.

Have you shot before, recurve or compund?

If not, seriously, leave the bow alone and book yourself on a course at the local archery club.


To set the bow up, call a proper archery shop and take it along to them by appointment to get kitted out with a sight, arrowrest, sling, stand and a decent set of arrows. They also need to measure your draw properly and adjust the bow as necessary.

Sounds a horribly boring reply to your post, but doing the above will ensure the bow is set up right and you learn without picking up bad habits which will take far longer to lose than to learn!




I bought a naked Browning Vanguard II and a Hoyt Supertec. I'm 2/3 thru my local clubs course and it's great. The Browning is now set up, but the Supertec is still a frightening bit of kit. I plan to sell the Browning later and use the money to buy a Sureloc or CopperJohn sight for the 330fps Tec bow!!

I can't wait til my main course is finished and I can get a bit of compound training before hitting the ranges. If I had to do it again, I'd have gone to the course before buying any bow.

Best of luck and welcome.


Some useful links:

www.targetcraft.com
www.quicks.com
www.bowsports.com



Finally, what release aid do you have. To paraphrase Marcus here, if you had $1000 to start again, you'd spend $500 on the release $500 to cover the bow and all other accessories.

I personally dropped £130 on the Carter Chocolate Lite. I hear this and the Carter Insatiable are very good trigger releases, or for a back-tension style release, the Carter Evolution.



Newbie info from one newbie to another -

A trigger release uses er... a umm.. trigger. Press this and the arrow flies off.

As I understand it, a back-tension release is set to a few pounds about your compound bows holding weight, not the total draw weight. So, say you have a 50lb bow with enough let-off that when pulled right back, you are holding 18lb. You set the back-tension release to say, 20lb. To use it, you hold the trigger so it *won't* fire whilst pulling your bow back. Once the weight is off, the bow pulled right back into it's "valley" of less weight, you release the trigger and the release goes "live". In the example I gave, you're holding 18lb. Pulling back more raises the pressure, when it hits 20lb, the bow fires.
Apparently this is better as the launch comes as a "surprise" as you won't know exactly when it will fire. The act of firing is reputedly better and you hold form and stance. It also avoids something called "target panic" or "punching" the trigger which can affect you as you get better.

Don't worry, if I'm wrong, someone here will correct me!!


A decent release is going to set you back £130 ish. I was sceptical at first, but the difference between a cheap release and a good one is amazing.

www.carterenterprises.com


Feel free to ask any queries here. This is a pretty friendly forum.


Regards

Ivan

[Colin KC]

Originally Posted by abcwarrior

Hi.
I'm also a newbie.

Thanks Ivan

Originally Posted by abcwarrior

Have you shot before, recurve or compund?

Yah, once had an Oneida Screaming Eagle, shot a recurve for many years, gave it up to concentrate on my main business, started a family, now #1 daughter wants to be Legolas, so it's my duty to bring her up right

Originally Posted by abcwarrior

To set the bow up, call a proper archery shop and take it along to them by appointment to get kitted out with a sight, arrowrest, sling, stand and a decent set of arrows. They also need to measure your draw properly and adjust the bow as necessary.

Yah, I was hoping someone would be near me & able to point me inna right direction.

Originally Posted by abcwarrior

Sounds a horribly boring reply to your post, but doing the above will ensure the bow is set up right and you learn without picking up bad habits which will take far longer to lose than to learn!

Picked up bad habits years ago Ivan, don't think I'll lose them now, just wanna be able to hold my own inna eyes of my daughter

Originally Posted by abcwarrior

I bought a naked Browning Vanguard II and a Hoyt Supertec. I'm 2/3 thru my local clubs course and it's great. The Browning is now set up, but the Supertec is still a frightening bit of kit. I plan to sell the Browning later and use the money to buy a Sureloc or CopperJohn sight for the 330fps Tec bow!!

It's completely double dutch to me Ivan, I know nothing

Originally Posted by abcwarrior

I can't wait til my main course is finished and I can get a bit of compound training before hitting the ranges. If I had to do it again, I'd have gone to the course before buying any bow.

Mebbe it was a mistake to get this then

Originally Posted by abcwarrior

Best of luck and welcome.

Thanks Ivan

Originally Posted by abcwarrior

Some useful links:

www.targetcraft.com
www.quicks.com
www.bowsports.com

Thanks for that, but I still don't know what I'm looking for

Originally Posted by abcwarrior

Finally, what release aid do you have. To paraphrase Marcus here, if you had $1000 to start again, you'd spend $500 on the release $500 to cover the bow and all other accessories.

I personally dropped £130 on the Carter Chocolate Lite. I hear this and the Carter Insatiable are very good trigger releases, or for a back-tension style release, the Carter Evolution.



Newbie info from one newbie to another -

A trigger release uses er... a umm.. trigger. Press this and the arrow flies off.

As I understand it, a back-tension release is set to a few pounds about your compound bows holding weight, not the total draw weight. So, say you have a 50lb bow with enough let-off that when pulled right back, you are holding 18lb. You set the back-tension release to say, 20lb. To use it, you hold the trigger so it *won't* fire whilst pulling your bow back. Once the weight is off, the bow pulled right back into it's "valley" of less weight, you release the trigger and the release goes "live". In the example I gave, you're holding 18lb. Pulling back more raises the pressure, when it hits 20lb, the bow fires.
Apparently this is better as the launch comes as a "surprise" as you won't know exactly when it will fire. The act of firing is reputedly better and you hold form and stance. It also avoids something called "target panic" or "punching" the trigger which can affect you as you get better.

Don't worry, if I'm wrong, someone here will correct me!!


A decent release is going to set you back £130 ish. I was sceptical at first, but the difference between a cheap release and a good one is amazing.

www.carterenterprises.com

Aaah! This, I think, will be the biggest problem, for me anyhoo, I won't use one Blimmin horrible things if you ask me, might as well get a rifle & join a gun club.


Ooops, sorry, little rant over. I know I'll never be a contender without one, but it seems like sacrilige to use 'em.


Perhaps I should go back to a recurve then?

Originally Posted by abcwarrior

Feel free to ask any queries here. This is a pretty friendly forum.


Regards

Ivan

I hope so Ivan, I might have gone a bit OTT there


Thanks for your friendly help

[Tarkwin]

The first thing you should do, is to get it checked over by someone who knows their stuff. Either a member of your nearest club who shoots a compound, or a member of staff at your nearest shop.

These are Quicks nr Richmond or Perris Archery nr Braintree...there may be one or two others about, but the staff of both these shops are very helpful.

Until such time you know it's safe, leave it alone, there is a lot of energy stored in a compound which could cause serious injury or worse.

It's perfectly possible to shoot a compound off the fingers and have done so myself. But not until I'd had my 2nd hand compound checked over by a member of staff at my local archery emporium.

T.

[Colin KC]

Originally Posted by Tarkwin

The first thing you should do, is to get it checked over by someone who knows their stuff. Either a member of your nearest club who shoots a compound, or a member of staff at your nearest shop.

These are Quicks nr Richmond or Perris Archery nr Braintree...there may be one or two others about, but the staff of both these shops are very helpful.

Until such time you know it's safe, leave it alone, there is a lot of energy stored in a compound which could cause serious injury or worse.

It's perfectly possible to shoot a compound off the fingers and have done so myself. But not until I'd had my 2nd hand compound checked over by a member of staff at my local archery emporium.

T.

Yah Thanks Tarkwin,

I really shouldn't have been so oblique & should've asked straight out "Where can I get my bow looked at" but thought I was being subtle

Wasn't gonna even draw it tarkwin, not silly me!

Can't say that 60lb peak is gonna be a problem to get over before the "easy bit" whatever it's called, or is there something I've missed?

[ThePinkOne]

ABCwarriors advice about getting set up by a decent shop is good, in particular they can see if they can get the bows to fit you- compounds tend to require very specific set up on DL and so on.

Once you get set up, see it you can find a bit of coaching/tuition too. There's a couple of ways to shoot a compound- (1) hold scope on target and press release aid button or (2) shoot back-tension style (where your pulling through the shot on back muscles fires the release indirectly)- analogous to shooting a recurve off a clicker- you can do this with a hand-held trigger release as well as the so-called "pure" BT (Evo, Loesch) or hinge releases. This is the "surprise" release. I prefer the term subconscious release myself mind you.

I'd suggest a decent hand-held trigger release from the Carter stable as a good start- expect to pay £120+ for a release worth having. But you need to try them out and get a good fit in your hand. Sights from compounds are built stronger, and scopes- well suggest you start with a small cheap one and see if you like it. The dealers can sort out the peep-sight, need to be put in the string in just the right place for YOU. Then there's the usual medley of launchers (I suggest keep is simple for now- prongs or blade not drop-away) plus arrows, stabilisers etc.

Good luck with it, the fear of the contraption does go away afer a bit, I promise.

P.

[Jerry Tee]

Originally Posted by Colin KC

Yah, once had an Oneida Screaming Eagle, shot a recurve for many years, gave it up to concentrate on my main business, started a family, now #1 daughter wants to be Legolas, so it's my duty to bring her up right

A pity you did not get another Oneida but then I am Biased I shoot an Oneida Pro Eagle

Originally Posted by Colin KC

Aaah! This, I think, will be the biggest problem, for me anyhoo, I won't use one Blimmin horrible things if you ask me, might as well get a rifle & join a gun club.


Ooops, sorry, little rant over. I know I'll never be a contender without one, but it seems like sacrilige to use 'em.:

As far as I am concerned it was a good rant as you may have guessed I shoot off fingers as well.

Still all is not lost have I have checked the spec for the bow and found that it has an axle to axle lenght of 37 and 3/8 ths inches. Provided you draw lenght is not too long that bow is perfectly capable of being shot off fingers.
You will need a magnetic flipper rest and a long berger button. A good platform tab ( like AF's but Cartels are not bad)and a sight with a plain ring and pin. I dont use a peep sight I have found that with a good solid anchor under the chin I don't need one. The class of bow that this way of shooting is called Limited Compound ( no release aid no sighting scope) You will need to make some mods to the tab because the best way to shoot that bow off fingers would be to draw with three fingers and the drop the bottom finger off and loose with two. to allow you to do this it will be necessary to cut a little off the bottom of the plate of the tab to let you get the bottom finger off the string and out of the way.And cut the leather of the tab down so that it covers two finger instead of three. Cut a little at a time you can always cut a bit more but you can't put it back.
As already suggested take the bow and get it checked out and then explain carefully that you want to shoot off fingers. You may get a few blank looks because they may not have come across an archer that shoots compound off fingers before. just be firm with them and tell them what you want.

PS If you have any more questions give a PM.

[cornish george]

[quote=Colin KC;113483]


Perhaps I should go back to a recurve then?


By far the best idea,see the light

[Colin KC]

[quote=cornish george;113509]

Originally Posted by Colin KC

Perhaps I should go back to a recurve then?


By far the best idea,see the light

Thanks George, but that was high drama (& irony at it's best )

Achully, I would've taken the recurve route again, but this Hoyt came up & I impulse buyed it (& I make a point of never backtracking, it's the law!
)