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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 16-06-06, 02:46 PM
bowman104's Avatar
In the Black
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Merlin XV
Sight: Sure Loc Supreme 550
Stabilisers: Merlin
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Cartel Triple

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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 53
Here's one i made earlier.
To use it you have to do a rough cut by hand, just mark the shaft 1/2" longer than you want then do the final cut in the jig. When you cut in the jig just rotate the arrow in the fletching jig cutting through the carbon 1st and then the aluminum.
http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/3237586
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 16-06-06, 03:07 PM
NeilM's Avatar
In the Blue
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: 2005 BowTech Constitut
Sight: Toxonics K9
Stabilisers: Saunders Pro-Tamer
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Easton Litespeed 400

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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Somerset
Posts: 238
OH YEAH That's what I'm talking about here, good old fashioned ingenuity.

Nice one Bowman
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 16-06-06, 03:16 PM
Murray's Avatar
Unqualified meddler
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: 25" Win&Win NX Xpert
Limbs: 38# Medium W&W Winex
Sight: Shibuya Ultima
Stabilisers: W&W Fomax
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: 8125
Arrows: ACE 670s

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Posts: 2,823
Nice

Just a couple of suggestions for a small adjustment to your design?

An Angle bracket on the aluminium rest in front of the disk would allow the position of the arrow to be held consistently and get a better chance at a flat cut.

A fletching jig isn't really required at the other end either, all you need is a support with a shallow blind hole in it into which you can insert the nock - easier to get the arrow in and out, and it can be rotated smoothly.

Good work!
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-06, 02:25 PM
wingate_52's Avatar
It's an X
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Black Winact,Jager grip
Limbs: Winex 42#
Sight: Copperjohn with G505
Stabilisers: 31" Doinker carbon
Button: Shibuya
Bow String: 18 strand Majesty (Rod Young)
Arrows: Nav 610,Fatboys 500

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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Bowdon
Posts: 2,120
I like it. safe and secure.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-06, 06:52 PM
bruno's Avatar
In the Blue
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Doing it by hand

What works very well for me is a hand saw I bought from a local model shop.it is like a small tenon saw with very fine teeth which comes with two blades and a small aluminium sawing block.
I have used this on ally's and carbons and it does the job.best bit is that it costs about 6 quid!
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-06, 06:56 PM
pyroarch57's Avatar
In the Gold
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Hoyt U`tec#57
Sight: Sureloc Supreme,
Stabilisers: 34" Doinker
Button:
Bow String: 452X pyro special
Arrows: Nav 430`s 110gn

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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Essex
Posts: 610
Quote:
Originally Posted by whisky View Post
Have a look on Archerytalk. So long as you can get through all the red-neck posts there used to be plans on there for a home made arrow saw. It involved using a motor, similar to that used in a sewing machine. In the end I decided to buy a Best arrow saw and am glad I did. Unfortunately I've since deleted the plans I found.

Best price I can find on a saw for you is at CBA @ £186. We have one of these at the club and it works fine. Once bought you'll have it for life.

I can never undestand why people spend so much on arrows/shafts and then use something like a dremmel to cut the shafts down. This doesn't help in making up precise arrows!
I can! it`s because they dont have any dough left after forking out for their arrows.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 15-10-06, 11:44 AM
syrus1's Avatar
In the White
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Hoyt Ultratec/Martin
Sight: Toxonics/Surloc
Stabilisers: Vibratec/Speciality
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Easton ACC

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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Jersey in the Chan
Posts: 26
I use a small angle grinder in a stand with a fine blade works great
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 31-12-06, 07:10 PM
In the Red
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Nexus
Limbs: SF HFC
Sight: Sureloc Challenger
Stabilisers: Merlin triads
Button: Shibuya
Bow String: 452X
Arrows: Carbon Impact 27"

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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 541
I have used a 4" angle grinder fitted with a diamond wheel and fitted on an angle grider cutting stand (makes it like a chop saw) which i picked up from screwfix for around £15. It gives good control and squareness. I cut into the carbon arrows just enough to break through to the "empty" core then rotated the shaft and did the same thing from a different angle. By doing this I managed to avoid splintering. But you do have to be very careful cutting carbons because if they even start to splinter, it can go unnoticed and once it starts, they could shatter at any time.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 31-12-06, 11:30 PM
wingate_52's Avatar
It's an X
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Black Winact,Jager grip
Limbs: Winex 42#
Sight: Copperjohn with G505
Stabilisers: 31" Doinker carbon
Button: Shibuya
Bow String: 18 strand Majesty (Rod Young)
Arrows: Nav 610,Fatboys 500

Compound Script currently under construction
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Bowdon
Posts: 2,120
Try rotating the arrow against the rotating saw rather than lower the saw into the arrow. gradually scribing a line all the way round with a narrow saw blade is a safe and accurate way to perform this action.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 31-12-06, 11:32 PM
wingate_52's Avatar
It's an X
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Black Winact,Jager grip
Limbs: Winex 42#
Sight: Copperjohn with G505
Stabilisers: 31" Doinker carbon
Button: Shibuya
Bow String: 18 strand Majesty (Rod Young)
Arrows: Nav 610,Fatboys 500

Compound Script currently under construction
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Bowdon
Posts: 2,120
Place a length of wooden dowel into the arrow to reduce fracture on carbons, as long as you dont cut through the dowel it is easy to pull it out after cutting off the excess arrow shaft.
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