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| Breakoffs because screwins only ever come loose, and those who say "oh, you can use it to tune the arrow to the bow" usually never get round to it, thus making them a waste of money. Inouts because I like Beiter stuff. Plastifletch or Flexfletch because I loathe bits of bent mylar, and Quickspins produce too much drag.
__________________ If you make something idiot proof, all that happens is someone builds a better idiot. |
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| Break-offs, in-outs and white spinwings that's the way I like 'em (draggy or not) |
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| 100g screw-ins (unlike Shirt I DO play around with points and if you put them in properly they rarely come loose )2L2 Beiter In-outs (long-uns give better shaft protection IMO) Rite-flites (low profile = low drag)
__________________ Woulda - coulda - shoulda - didn't. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| There's always one, isn't there! ![]()
__________________ If you make something idiot proof, all that happens is someone builds a better idiot. |
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| My ancient 2nd hand 430s came with what I use... these are impossible to get now, that's the non-bulleted screw ins, in fact when I started archery back in 1998 those were no longer available. Seriously though, no need for the screw in for tuning purposes as I couldn't tell the difference in 'tune' between 470s and 430s - it's just a matter of what weight arrows you like (I mean I get no difference in scores between the two sets, not that the bareshafts aren't in different places cf fletched). However, I agree with Shirt, they do unscrew but seem less prone to completely coming out of the arrow on hot days by becoming stuck in hard bosses than break-offs. Usually use spin wings for no reason other than everybody else does, however, ended up at a york once where everybody else had the same yellow vanes and switched to the plastiflech which are generally on my practice arrows. Seeing where my arrows went gained me more points than ever any difference in vanes could make! Was one of my better scores, so i guess what fletching you use is not too vital either. I rather like bieter nocks but only cos it is easy to clip them on to their nock point, even if those are a fiddle to get on in the first place. Sorry guess that won't have been much help, but the answer to your question in my view is it doesn't really matter what components you use, I have no perfect combination. So match up the arrows as best you can and provided you don't have something too strange you'll be fine. When you are really good then you can tell us what you find suits you, but most don't get to really good.
__________________ "A cow in a sailing boat gently moves which makes its Moo extremely smooooth." How to Speak Moo! by Deborah Fajerman |
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__________________ Brain, n: An apparatus with which we think that we think. -Ambrose Bierce |
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| Make that a third as I have just changed my points to bring the bareshaft into the group - Works a treat. So I use 620 Spine with a 95 grain screw in point (Insert + Point), Pin nocks and lovely yellow spin wings. |
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| Yep....620's with 95 grain screw in (with a tiny dab of hot melt to stop them un-screwing). 2x2s in-outs white with black spin wings. Just started shooting these again after a winter of fat X7's, now kicking myself as i should have kept with the ACE's all the way through. This is my 100th Post!!! ![]() |
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| break-offs, in-out nocks and white spinwings.
__________________ Civilisation exists by geological consent, subject to change without notice. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
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