Diopter

[Hidden Hippo]

Chris White shoots a 1.0D lens I believe. The problem I had with using one was it was impossible to get a clear image - huge amounts of blur. With a 0.75D lens I get a fairly clear image regardless of the extension of my sight.

[Furface]

OK, purely out of interest, or as a coach trying to understand these things.
From what has been written, the higher the Diopter, the greater the magnification...correct?
So, the higher the diopter, the smaller the amount of target that appears in the peep/sight combination?
So it's the equivalent of, say, aiming with the pin or the ring of a recurve sight?
So what actually influences whether one uses a higher or lower diopter lens?
Answers in idiot-friendly format, please.

[Hidden Hippo]

I think it probably depends on what sort of aiming system (ring/dot or just a dot etc.) you use. Personally, when I'm using a ring/dot combination then I like the ring to surround the gold, which means a 0.75D lens at the correct extension for 70m. Unfortunately a 1.0D lens is required to get the right ring for 90m/100yds, but the magnification is so large that any small tremor sends you halfway across the target.

When I get my Beiter scope it will be sticking to a 0.75D lens and just change the insert as and when it is required (if at all).

[T101]

i use 1.0, does take some getting used to though.

[ben_e71]

can someone remind me the series of flashes on the side of the lens what is the convention for number of flashes (lines) per diopter.

e.g. is it 3 lines / flashes for .75 or 1.0

[iodelson]

Friends, I was looking at Magnification Nomogram and I understood in the following way:
EYE TO SCOPE DISTANCE 30 " DIOPTER 0.80 = 2.6 X
EYE TO SCOPE DISTANCE 31 " DIOPTER 0.80 = 3.0 X
EYE TO SCOPE DISTANCE 32 " DIOPTER 0.80 = 3.4 X
The potency changes in agreement with the distance of the eye for the scope.

If I am wrong, please correct me.

[Hidden Hippo]

Most places that sell by "magnification" are incorrect in the values they give (not entirely sure how they work it out really).

Imagine holding a magnifying glass - if you move it closer to your eye or further away the image will get larger/smaller dependant on the focal length of the lens, which is in turn directly related (I think, its been a while since I did imaging) to the power of the lens. The same principle applies to a lens in a compound scope. Sure Loc have a calculator on their website where you can put in the power and the distance and you will get the magnification, although I don't think this is 100% accurate as the peep sight will likely add some degree of magnification (correct me if I'm wrong).

[madbirdwomen]

Ive used A 1.0 lenses mainly for longer distances 70m / 80Yds as at 20 -30m The target is huge a blur and right in your face. Used a clarifier with it a few times which helped a bit. But as previously said takes a lot of getting used to and if you dont have a steady hand, i wouldnt bother trying it as your all over the place.

[artee]

I use a 1 diopter lens indoors and a .75 out side.
To me it does not matter what diopter you use. The shakes will always be there regardless of the power of lens you use.

[madbirdwomen]

Originally Posted by ben_e71

can someone remind me the series of flashes on the side of the lens what is the convention for number of flashes (lines) per diopter.

e.g. is it 3 lines / flashes for .75 or 1.0

I have 2 lines on my 0.50 and 3 on 0.75 Not checked the 1.0 assume that would probably be 4