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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-06, 12:15 AM
Bald Eagle's Avatar
It's an X
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Bowtech Allegiance
Sight: Copper John 2
Stabilisers: Fuse + Fuse sidestab
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Navigator FMJ's

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
Stabs:
Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: North Yorks
Posts: 1,298

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Affiliation: GNAS/NFAS
Club: Priory Archers
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IFAA Classification: Unclassified

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She tends to go bald as the outdoor season starts, we are like a couple of book ends!!!
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-06, 01:03 AM
rgsphoto
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From what I can gather a 1" cut from the back of an X10 is the same as a half spine up. IE a 450 cut 1" from the back would end up as a 430, in between the 450 and 410. The max recomendation is 1". I think the ACE will be the same. I don't recomend them for a compound. Too light.

For recurve I suggest you cut from the front only unlees you need an ultra light ace. If so a cut from the back will facilitate a lighter thinner arrow with a similar spine. Not sure you will gain much, only about 10gns or so. I'm not too keen on ultra light arrows, they drift too much, even if thay are flying fast. They will be OK, but make windage adjustment harder, what's the point? If I were to shoot recurve again I would take a long hard look at Cartel Triples, They are thinner and heavier, and not not barreled so not sensitive to which end they are cut from. And much cheaper too. I hate to say it but I think the ACE has finally met it's match, and what is more, comes out wanting, as long as you can decide which spine to buy.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-06, 01:56 AM
m@xgold's Avatar
In the White
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: AeroTec with KG Limbs
Sight: Shibuya
Stabilisers: beiter
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: ace720

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
Stabs:
Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 13

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thanks for the info folks. Please keep it coming. i would prefer to measure twice an cut once.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-06, 11:53 AM
gunmender's Avatar
In the Red
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Hoyt Matrix & 40# G3
Sight: Sureloc Contender X-
Stabilisers: Home made and cartel
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: ACE 720 Beiter in/ou

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
Stabs:
Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 393

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I use a Dremel type cutter with a thin cutting disk, clamp it securly and have some room around the disk. I put a wrap of masking tape round the shaft and mark it to the length ( have not yet set up a jig for the length)

Carefully holding the shaft and using a rotary motion start cutting using enough blade to just cut through the wall of the shaft. Deburr with a gentle twist of a 6mm drill bit. practice a few mm cuts at first and see how it goes.

Good luck
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-06, 02:58 PM
Rik's Avatar
Rik Rik is offline
It's an X
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Winact -original version
Limbs: Samick Extreme
Sight: Arc Systeme SX10
Stabilisers: Spiga Scorpion rods
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: 8125/Angel Majesty
Arrows: Triple 700s, 110 gra

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
Stabs:
Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Carrickfergus
Posts: 1,541

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I've used a dremel, and a proper arrow saw (a "Best" one). The arrow saw wins hands down. It's just so much less hassle. You can still screw it up if you're not careful, mind you...
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-06, 04:48 PM
gunmender's Avatar
In the Red
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Hoyt Matrix & 40# G3
Sight: Sureloc Contender X-
Stabilisers: Home made and cartel
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: ACE 720 Beiter in/ou

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
Stabs:
Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 393

Affiliations & Declarations (Click Here)
Affiliation:
Club:
Commercial:
Commercial Interest:
GNAS Classification:
IFAA Classification:

AIUK Rankings & Live Shoots (Click Here)

Thumbs up

Cant beat the correct tool, however I had only a dozen shafts to cut, and the club cutter was being repaired at the time.

If I was to do a lot of the cutting, yes a proper cutter would be used.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-06, 04:51 PM
rgsphoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunmender
Cant beat the correct tool, however I had only a dozen shafts to cut, and the club cutter was being repaired at the time.

If I was to do a lot of the cutting, yes a proper cutter would be used.
Check this out ( It was on the bow press sight Rik)

www.deerslayer.freewebspace.com/hbarrowsaw.html
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-06, 10:08 PM
Dark Horse's Avatar
In the White
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs:
Sight:
Stabilisers:
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows:

Setup
Bow: Hoyt Cybertec
String & Cables: My Own
Sight: Naildriver
Stabs:
Scope: Beiter 29mm
Launcher/Rest: Golden Key Premier
Arrows: 340 Axis FMJ
Release Aid: Stan Super X
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 46

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I trim a small amount off the back first. A mm or so to ensure the ends are square, with a proper arrow cutter. As good as ACE shafts are, I like to ensure squareness before inserting a nock. They are mass produced and I wouldn't like to think how easton cut them. I just like to be sure.
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