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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-08, 09:46 PM
madmac's Avatar
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Talking

I had Heard that if you look down the inside of the arrow you should be able to see a dark line running from top to bottom and that line should go on the side where the button contacts ,has anyone else heard this ???
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-08, 10:46 PM
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ArrowheadUK
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Yes, in many cases you can see a dark line running down the inside of the arrow and this dark line can be a pain in the ar** when tuning. It can be spotted (sometimes with a magnifying lens) on nearly all alloy or alloy cored arrows. It is a weld seam. The inner core of alloy is, as far as know, manufactured flat then rolled and welded and then drawn. My own tests carried out when spotting this weld many moons ago, showed that if you placed this weld seam against the pressure button and shot with some that were not against the pressure button, that the shaft with the weld against the button showed a fair bit stiffer when shot. Sometimes I have seen a spiralled dark line (even worse). It is finding out things like this that make you realise just how important fletchings are as they can mask (to a degree) inperfections in your tuning and shooting but still keep arrows *grouped*, depending on what group size you want of course!
Always tune bare shafts in my opinion and yet I know there are some who place no relevance on bare shaft tuning...yeah..O.K. and the very best of luck!
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-08, 05:50 PM
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Many find the centre of mass of an arrow can be off some too, ie not just weld lines but you can have more carbon/ carbon with varying levels of epoxy in its structure on one side too, getting this mass along with what OB states in the "weld post" at a common point will also aide bare shaft grouping, usually found by blanking the ends of the shaft and floating in a suitably long container, don't try finding the "spine" of an X10 by floating it in water. it'll probably sink.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-08, 04:23 PM
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Okay I'm gonna try this out tomorrow with some friends. I've stripped all my arrows bare. But now I'm wondering, should I just shoot all the bare shafts and tune the rest of the arrows so that they group together with the largest bunch? Or should I fletch a few arrows and then tune the bareshafts, and then strip the fletched shafts, and tune them to the already-tuned arrows?

Hope that wasn't too difficult to understand :X
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-08, 08:38 PM
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Yea I've done this with my Nanos when I got them, it was one of the reasons why I was also so impressed with these arrows, just alighned all of them with a fletching line then shot groups of sixes at 18m, grouped about the size of the gold on a 40cm full target. Same result obtained with other set too.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 13-01-08, 11:49 AM
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Riser: Red Inno Carbon
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Well I just came back from training today. I tried out the nock tuning with all bare shafts at 15m. All my arrows grouped together, even though some of the nocks are not in the same position as others. Is there something I'm missing out here? Does it only apply to certain arrows? Or is the distance too short? Anyways I've already refletched my arrows and I don't think I'll be doing nock tuning again anytime soon, unless I get new arrows.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 13-01-08, 03:39 PM
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If you have already fletched your arrows and are reluctant to strip them. Shoot all arrows. Record out of group arrows. Rotate their nocks by 1 vane position. Shoot. repeat until all arrows group.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 17-01-08, 01:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zippo View Post
Well I just came back from training today. I tried out the nock tuning with all bare shafts at 15m. All my arrows grouped together, even though some of the nocks are not in the same position as others. Is there something I'm missing out here? Does it only apply to certain arrows? Or is the distance too short? Anyways I've already refletched my arrows and I don't think I'll be doing nock tuning again anytime soon, unless I get new arrows.
I just got back from KG Archery after picking up some 40lb Apex's and some new ACE's. Woo Hoo !!!( gotta get that in!)
Adrian there 'nock tuned' with me looking for grouping BUT ALSO nock position ie: angles of shafts in the boss
And yes it took some time.

So I gather, much can be seen from the angle of the shaft in the boss even if group size begins to suffer from shooting a lot of shafts fairly quickly thogh it must be said that each shot must be a good one. ( thats why I had to shoot a lot of arrows I guess!)

FULL MARKS for KG !!!
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 25-01-08, 12:45 AM
King Custard's Avatar
In the Gold
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Riser: Hoyt Nexus
Limbs: KG APEX 66x40lb
Sight: Arten Olympic
Stabilisers: Arten custom carbons
Button: BEITER
Bow String: 20str 452x - Bieter nock
Arrows: ACE's -X10's

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zippo View Post
Well I just came back from training today. I tried out the nock tuning with all bare shafts at 15m. All my arrows grouped together, even though some of the nocks are not in the same position as others. Is there something I'm missing out here? Does it only apply to certain arrows? Or is the distance too short? Anyways I've already refletched my arrows and I don't think I'll be doing nock tuning again anytime soon, unless I get new arrows.
Someone will know better- but I highly doubt that during production of shafts anyone would find each 'seam' - and mark it-before the logos get put on....
so sure..it may well seem that the nocks are in differring positions, when in fact you have nock tuned properly.
Though 15m isn't very far is it?...I'd go for 20 minimum
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 25-01-08, 10:15 AM
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ArrowheadUK
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Riser: British
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Sight: G.M.B (2008)
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Arrows: AC/DC's

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Many archers buy made up sets of arrows. Nothing wrong with that and nothing wrong with shops selling made up arrows. The trouble is, that the shops have to make up the arrows in a commercial enviroment, and as such cannot be expected to look for all the nuances when making up those arrows. When you have the components you can make up your own arrows accordingly.
For those that do buy made up sets and have some time on their hands, they could shoot, say, six dozen arrows and record the score achieved by each arrow, say, shot at 70mts on a FITA face at random. You will almost certainly find a high scoring arrow and a low scoring arrow with the rest being about the same. It could be however, the difference between the high scoring and low scoring quite a lot, and it goes wiithout saying that the low scoring arrow, which you might not be aware of, is costing you a bucket load of points in a 12 dozen round. In an ideal world, all arrows should come in with the same score, but this rarely happens. Make up your own arrows and you have a better chance of getting each arrow to score roughly the same.
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