Spigarelli String Jig Tips?

[cestria]

I've started to make my own strings with a Spigarelli Jig. Having bought it second hand on a well known auction site, it came with no 'instructions'.
I'm more than happy with the strings I'm now making, but I wondered if there were any tips or tricks owners of the Spiga jig have.

ie How many turns of the handle would you give a new string to pre-stretch it?
Would you set the length of the jig a little short whilst winding on then wind out to correct length?
Wind on posts inline or turned?

[archery_mum]

Originally Posted by cestria

I've started to make my own strings with a Spigarelli Jig. Having bought it second hand on a well known auction site, it came with no 'instructions'.
I'm more than happy with the strings I'm now making, but I wondered if there were any tips or tricks owners of the Spiga jig have.

ie How many turns of the handle would you give a new string to pre-stretch it?
Would you set the length of the jig a little short whilst winding on then wind out to correct length?
Wind on posts inline or turned?

The important thing to remember with the Spig is not to try and over stretch the string or the bar that holds the posts will bend. It is very soft and if you try and pre-stretch the string too much you will find that the post starts to lean in.

You may also find it useful to mark on the aluminium bar where to wind it to and finish at. The length depends on what material you are using. I find 452X measured 1/4" long, 20 twists added then stretched to the correct length works for my main string.

The posts are removable but you may find it a bit of a job at first as they are screwed in tight.

However as Greg Hill makes a much better job than I ever could, he now makes the strings for my competition bows.

[Quadratus]

I have used a Spig for a couple of years now to make just about every type of string and cable there is. It is far from perfect, but overall still probably the best jig available off-the-shelf in the UK.

My main tips all relate to the same thing. First, never try to put much tension on the string with the string around the top ends of the posts, especially the arms are crosswise (eg when you are making an end serving loop). As Archery Mum points out, you will bend or break the arms, or tear them out of their socket (been there, done both of those!). You can make the string rigid enough for serving, but that’s about it.

However, when you do want to apply some tension, i) put the posts in line, ii) put some sort of block under them to fill the gap between the thingie on which the posts are mounted and the body of the jig (I use a 12mm nut, which just happens to be the right size) and iii) place the string at the bottom of the posts. Then you can apply a LOT of tension. For example, when I am making compound strings or cables, I tension them until they give a high pitched, metallic ‘ting’ when plucked and leave them under tension for a hour or so, tightening as necessary to retain the pitch of the ‘ting’. I then twist them to approximately 1/8” shorter than I want and repeat the process on the twisted string. I don’t know how many pounds tension this is, but strings/cables treated this way don’t lengthen on turn in any way when put on the bow properly and shot a dozen or so times to settle them in, as quite a few people up here in Scotland can testify.

Hope this helps.

[Tarkwin]

I've yet to see a Spig product that comes with instructions. The closest I've ever seen is an exploded diagram with all the components labelled.

T.

[pHz]

Originally Posted by Tarkwin

I've yet to see a Spig product that comes with instructions. The closest I've ever seen is an exploded diagram with all the components labelled.

T.

my VBS has a 4 sides of A4 manual with full instructions - very helpful and informative

shame its all in italian

slainte rob