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| Hints & Tips Feel free to share all your archery tips here. |
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| There was a time when arrows were cut as short as possible and the shaft would rub the button at full draw with only the pile ahead of the button. That left almost nothing overhanging the riser. Then there was a move towards having about 2" ahead of the riser, or thereabouts. I'm not sure that there is a correct amount of overhang. I would never buy arrows that were as short as possible, just in case draw length of the archer increases, especially when new to archery. It has been known for archers to change draw length after many years of shooting! |
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| There's probably something to do with nodes that someone can explain however I measured mine to the button and decided I actually wanted to the edge of the riser to give me some movement should I change technique. I guess if you're shooting recurve with a clicker you may want to consider where the clicker will sit. If you go to a good shop (you have a choice in Kent) then they should help you out.
__________________ FRUB Rule #1: Discussion of the F is strictly prohibited. |
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| There are many different reasons to have your arrows at different lengths. For pure speed, the shortest arrow possible keeps it as light as possible. I also know of people who use the feel and noise of the pile "clicking" against the rest, as a draw stop. Those of you with a clicker need to have the pile somewhere near the front edge of the riser and those of us who shoot without a sight and use the end of the arrow as an aim point, will cut our arrows to give us a useful pile on the centre of the target distance. Arrows can also be tuned by adjusting their length. A slightly under spined shaft can be stiffened by shortening it. I would always advise a new archer to leave their arrows long in case their draw length increases and children always need room to grow. Everyone seems to have their own opinion on arrow length and whatever works for you, is usually best.
__________________ Traditional Archer. If it aint made of wood..it aint no good! |
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| Quote:
At "full draw" the arrow should be long enough just to draw through the clicker (obviously!). If you're new there's no harm in setting the clicker further forward giving yourself some extra arrow length to "grow into", you can always trim your arrows as your draw length improves, depending on the criticality of the spine obviously! If you're not using a clicker, you should be .... |
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| I thought one was for buttons and the other to fit the wrap around rest. But I'm a BB archer so I'm probably wrong!
__________________ FRUB Rule #1: Discussion of the F is strictly prohibited. |
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| Thanks for all your help, No I don't use a clicker, I use AC/C arrows and they are about 1 1/2 sticking out from the front of my riser. Due to buying some ACE arrows I thought I may be able to loose maybe 1in.
__________________ Im too old to rock"n"roll But too young to die |
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| You don't really want any of the arrow sticking out of the front of the riser. But you should have about 1" of shaft in front of the button though.
__________________ Counting down to ScoCo (The next one!). |
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| Quote:
It's "to optimise the bow's tuning in case the arrow is to rigid or too long. Using this second hole moves the initial flex point of the arrow closer to its tip" Heretic Archer p 142 |
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