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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 13-07-08, 09:42 PM
T101's Avatar
In the Blue
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Riser: switchback
Limbs: Hyper alloy
Sight: 300 x zoom
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to close to the boss can lead to a snapped carbon/ally arrow, but only if the boss moves some, done this myself, so now i move hand back about 2 inches to help avoid this and still not bend the arrow.
see alot of people pull from 2 far back, makes me cringe when i see them bending the kak out of em, and a little po'ed when they r mine!
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 13-07-08, 10:23 PM
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It's an X
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Riser: Winact -original version
Limbs: Samick Extreme
Sight: Arc Systeme SX10
Stabilisers: Spiga Scorpion rods
Button: Shibuya DX
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I've heard the "grip the middle" method recommended before, but only for carbon shafts. The argument is that you can't always tell is a shaft is broken in the target, so pulling from the middle lowers the chances of getting impaled...

For alis the advice is and always has been "as close to the face as possible". But really it takes quite an effort to put a permanent bend in any sort of a shaft. I recall trying to break a Navigator once. I thought "I'll just snap it over my knee". One bruised knee and an un-broken shaft later, I got out the mole-grips to crush the sucker instead...
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 14-07-08, 04:29 AM
In the Blue
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Setup
Riser: Spigarelli 2001 VBS
Limbs: WinEx longs
Sight: Face Walker/POA
Stabilisers: 12 oz weight
Button: Spig Click Button
Bow String: Robert Williams Custom
Arrows: Easton 430 Navigator

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Use an arrow puller (to protect your hand from carbon splinters), brace one hand on the bale and gip, with the puller, close to it. Key is to pull straight back, not at an angle which increases friction and puts pressure on the shaft. Seen aluminum arrows bent by too aggressive a pull by someone like the guy giving you advice.

Oh, and pull your own arrows. You shot them, you retrieve them from the target. (smile)

Dave
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 16-07-08, 08:42 AM
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Riser: Hoyt Nexus 25" LH (Jade)
Limbs: W&W Inni #36 (43.3#)
Sight: Shibuya Ultima
Stabilisers: Bieter
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: Angel flight (black)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rik View Post
I've heard the "grip the middle" method recommended before, but only for carbon shafts. The argument is that you can't always tell is a shaft is broken in the target, so pulling from the middle lowers the chances of getting impaled...
How on earth would you impale yourself on an arrow you are pulling out of a boss with the broken end, only the nock would be travelling towards you and even then you would have to put special effort into the action.

As FITA and beginners course say, hand on the boss and then with the other hand as close the the boss as possible pull the arrow straight out.

Use an arrow puller to increase the brip and protect the hand.

There really should be a debate on this otherwise people are advocating potentially damaging arrows by pulling from the middle.
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 16-07-08, 09:01 AM
In the Black
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Riser: Hoyt Helix
Limbs: Hoyt G3
Sight: SF Carbon
Stabilisers: Black Sheep long rod
Button:
Bow String: Giga home made
Arrows: Easton Navigators

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Interesting answers, thank you.

In summary:

1 It is possible to break arrows by pulling them from close to the boss.

2 Pulling from a point on the shaft away from the boss can bend them.

3 If an arrow is broken in the boss you may not be able to see it so putting your hand on the boss close to the arrow (ie fingers on both sides of the arrow) is not a good thing to do.

As I reckon that I can pull straight when I pull from close to the boss, I think that I will continue to do what I have been doing but will bear 3 in mind and push on the boss a little way from the shaft. If I come across a 'bend & wiggle them puller' I will suggest politely that we pull our own arrows (& put up with the inevitable comments).

Tim
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 16-07-08, 03:54 PM
not dead yet's Avatar
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Riser: avalon / ultratec
Limbs: winex/ xt3000
Sight: scorten/ toxonics
Stabilisers: beiter
Button: beiter
Bow String: f.f./ bcy
Arrows: aces / aces

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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimGriff6 View Post
Interesting answers, thank you.

In summary:

1 It is possible to break arrows by pulling them from close to the boss.

2 Pulling from a point on the shaft away from the boss can bend them.

3 If an arrow is broken in the boss you may not be able to see it so putting your hand on the boss close to the arrow (ie fingers on both sides of the arrow) is not a good thing to do.

As I reckon that I can pull straight when I pull from close to the boss, I think that I will continue to do what I have been doing but will bear 3 in mind and push on the boss a little way from the shaft. If I come across a 'bend & wiggle them puller' I will suggest politely that we pull our own arrows (& put up with the inevitable comments).

Tim
1 if your pulling from nearest the boss and the arrow breaks its more likely broken on impact. i.e Hard italian boss
2 pulling half way up the shaft will defo bend them if your not careful and pull square ,which most people dont.
3 this is why we should all use somesort of arrow puller.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 16-07-08, 04:21 PM
In the Black
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Setup
Riser: Hoyt Helix
Limbs: Hoyt G3
Sight: SF Carbon
Stabilisers: Black Sheep long rod
Button:
Bow String: Giga home made
Arrows: Easton Navigators

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Quote:
Originally Posted by not dead yet View Post
1
3 this is why we should all use somesort of arrow puller.
Thanks for the comment on the breaking being done on the way in rather than the way out - that makes more sense to me.

The point about being careful with the non-pulling hand (& I always use a puller) was that if the shaft is damaged inside the boss and I slide it out along my fingers, the damage will 'transfer itself to my fingers' (for want of a better term). The first I time I would know that it was broken would be when the bits of carbon stick into my fingers. If I hold the boss a bit away from the arrow, it comes out clear of my fingers and, should it be splintered, I am uninjured.

Tim
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 16-07-08, 04:46 PM
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When I pull, it is with hand on boss, arrow puller near to front of arrow, & pull back with the shoulder (back tension) I have had to stop many new archers from pulling with the hand underneath the arrow , as the grip & pull action could cause the arrow to bend.
Another point to look out for: Too short to pull the arrow? If you can not get help, stand directly below the arrow, reach up, grip the arrow with TWO HANDS near to front of arrow, using the puller, use your back as a brace on the boss & pull the arrow out.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 18-07-08, 02:01 PM
In the Black
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Setup
Riser: by Bernardini Nilo (red)
Limbs: Winact 38#
Sight: none
Stabilisers: none
Button: Striker
Bow String: A red one.
Arrows: Acc's

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A tube that strikes a board of compressed straw at 100m/s, deaccelerating almost instantly. Over and over and over again.

It's hard to imagine an object that can tolerate the above will be as fragile as to be affected by where one grips it to extract it.

Having said that, I've encountered the odd person who has pulled my arrows so brutishly that I was concerned about damage, on these occasions I have brightly exclaimed 'I'll pull this time' on the next end, and subsequently manoeuvered to pull the arrows for the rest of the round.

If I happen to be 'pulling, not scoring' then I'll always ask after the first end if anyone minds me pulling their arrows for them.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 18-07-08, 08:56 PM
WhitehartFB's Avatar
In the Gold
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Setup
Riser: FiberBow
Limbs: W&W Inno
Sight: Shibuya
Stabilisers: FiberBow S3
Button: Shibuya Dual Click
Bow String: FF Plus
Arrows: ACE

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joester View Post
A tube that strikes a board of compressed straw at 100m/s, deaccelerating almost instantly. Over and over and over again.

Exactly - this is what happens when an arrow hits the boss

http://www.wernerbeiter.com/videos/Demo_5.wmv

although I do prefer my arrows pulled out straight, they cost enough so deserve some consideration.
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