Bow Cleaing after Season/Shooting in the rain

[Kae]

Hey Everyone,

I've just had the pleasure of shooting in horizontal rain (the 4&4 we were meant to be doing became a 2&2, lol), and have just finished cleaning, drying and re-assembling my kit.
I just wondered if anyone would be interested in a step-by-step guide to recurve bow cleaing?

If anyone's interested i'll post up a guide.

[Munsterman]

It cannot hurt, and I would like to see it anyway. C

[Cakemeister]

Not sure about step by step, but if it's been raining I always wipe everything after disassembly with a dry cloth (especially anything metal) and leave it out of its place in my bowcase overnight to dry.

[buzz lite beer]

Try putting one of these in your bow case, primarily for rifle use in this form, but as ads states metal protection from corrosion. http://www.napieruk.com/guncleaning.html

[Wrexham Exile]

what ever you do dont polish them with brasso or anything!

mate of mine done that and it takes the anodise straight off

[Kae]

Okey dokey, doodley day, itchy bitsy, etectera etcetera.............

1. Get archery kit home (If I don't have to, I don't put my kit back into the case, so as to avoid getting it damp)
2. When home, get a large towel and lay it on the floor (or a table if one is available), then spread archery kit on it
3. Dismantle archery kit as much as possible. Removing sight block, grip, everything possible that will go back on without problem (ie, nothing that would require tuning)
4. Dry everything thoroughly.
5. Re-assemble bow
6. Using a cotton bud, rub wd40 over screw heads after they have been tightened. (this dries and leaves a water-repelling film that stops the screws etc from rusting)

Button
The majority of buttons are designed so that the end can be removed without effecting the spring tension, so that they can be cleaned. Useing cotton buds, remove all dirt, and re-assemble dry (no lubricants should be used, as these can cause problems with dirt ingress)

String
If the string becomes full of dirt (ie, from a muddy field), then whilst the bow is strung, using old serving material wrapped once around the string, pull it along the string so that it squeezes the crud out with the wax (that you've been applying all year - yes? lol). Then re-wax the string.

Car wax
I know, I know, its not a car, but this can help when the rain comes along next time. If you wax the large flat areas of the bow (limbs, long rod etc) then it stops the water from "clinging" to these surfaces. However, don't put wax on any parts of the bow that you want to have friction, ie limb nocks!

Vaseline
Put a very small amount of vaseline on stabiliser screw threads. This helps stop them from sticking, and rusting.

Pencils & Markers
Whenever i'm happy with a setting on my bow, I use a pencil or a marker to mark where it is (ie a line down the clicker, line around the rest). When your finished with them, either rub them off with a thumb, or alittle white spirit.

Fabsil
This is an excellent tent waterproofer you can get from most camping/hiking places, and is excellent for waterproofing fabric archery cases. I've used it for ages on my Aurora case, and it doesn't dis-colour.

Notes:
WD40 is abrasive, so should not be used on any moving surfaces. (Found to my cost, as it accelerated chain wear on my bike).
Archery equipment should never be stored damp, and in the worst case scenario, the case should at least be left open for everything to dry.


Thats all for now, Kae.

[sky_high30]

I throw all my stuff in the airing cupboard when I get home, make sure it all looks largely dry (usually lives in there for 24hrs), then check for rust/damage and repack.

Anyone got any idea what to use to clean water marks of an axis? Poor 'aud girls been getting a soaking recently and she's not as shiny as she was once...

[cliveanne]

Originally Posted by sky_high30

I throw all my stuff in the airing cupboard when I get home, make sure it all looks largely dry (usually lives in there for 24hrs), then check for rust/damage and repack.

Anyone got any idea what to use to clean water marks of an axis? Poor 'aud girls been getting a soaking recently and she's not as shiny as she was once...

Mr. Sheen?

[Kae]

A damp towel.

I wouldn't personally recommend an airing cupboard, for the only reason that the added heat could make the equipment dry, taking a set at the same time. Ie cheap wooden limbs not laid flat could take a set to the position they are stored.

Just my opinion though, Kae.

[stever]

Originally Posted by cliveanne

Mr. Sheen?

Wipe down with a damp cloth. Dry through and then wax with a good wax polish ie a car wax. this will also protect in the future.