Cutting arrows

Alis - pipe cutter (I slip a point in when cutting to stop shaft going out of shape)
Carbons - dremmel (this is a bit dodgey, and produces fine carbon/ali dust particles)

[Kae]

All shafts - trusted archery shop.

I've bought and had all mine cut by BowPlus and they did an excellent job.
Plus, if they knacker them, they replace them, easy peasy.

Kae.

[napolienne]

Note that you need a REALLY fine bladed hacksaw if you're going to cut X7s. They're quite brittle. Dremel type thing is probably the best non-specialist tool for the job, arrow saw best of all, if you can afford/justify one.

Personally, I'd happily cut lower end alis myself - if they get wrecked, no great loss. But for X7s, ali/carbons and pure carbons, just take them into your local shop. Not worth wrecking expensive arrows for the sake of a tenner.

[Alex Greig]

Originally Posted by napolienne

But for X7s, ali/carbons and pure carbons, just take them into your local shop. Not worth wrecking expensive arrows for the sake of a tenner.

I would love too, but my nearest archery shop is 3 hours away.

[bruno]

As I posted previously the small tenon saw I use has an very fine pitch to the teeth of the blade and I have used this to cut allys,carbons and ally/carbons.I have perfect results for the last two years.
sold in most good modeling shops.

[MrT]

I cut all mine, both alloy and carbon, on our clubs arrow saw. As some one has already mentioned, an arrow saw is a really desirable, if not essential, piece of equipment.

We encourage club members to buy uncut shafts, and teach them how to cut, point and fletch them themselves.

[napolienne]

Originally Posted by Alex Greig

I would love too, but my nearest archery shop is 3 hours away.

Ah. Thats annoying. And I thought an hour and a half was bad...

Originally Posted by elastoplastscavenger

if its aluminium shafts then use a pipe cutter that can be bought from anywhere that sells plumbing stuff for £2-£10.

when using it always gradualy tighten the thing as you turn it, like do a few turns then tighten it a half turn on the knob then turn it a few times more (will become obvious once you have the thing in your hand). If you dont gradually tighten it the end of the shaft ends up tapered inwards and you might have some trouble fitting points.

to stop the shaft ends tapering put a solid piece of metal up the arrow shaft and use your mini pipe cutter, doing it a bit slower will give you a nice clean cut for alloys. as for carbons get your archery shop to cut them,health issues with particles of carbon, nasty stuff you get that inside you.

[Bald Eagle]

Do it properly and safely, get your club to buy an arrow cut off saw for around £130 and everyone benefits,apart from the woodchuckers!!!

[TJ Mason]

Originally Posted by Zanda

I HAVE actually used a pipe cutter to cut acc, and I took it slowly, increasing pressure by a tiny amount, and I didnt damage even one arrow, all 12 were cut cut correctly, and are in use on a regular basis, its very, very, slowly, is the rule, yes it take a lot longer, but I wasnt exactly pushed for time but if your not at all sure about your ability to do it, take em to your local archery shop/expert

I've just made a pen from an old A/C/C, using a mini tube cutter to cut it to size (I'll post a photo when I get my act together). You're right - with very small increases in pressure, it cut well without detaching the carbon from the aluminium, though the cut end needed a lot of de-burring.

I wouldn't risk it on arrows I value, though. I took my Navigators into Aardvark on Thursday to have them trimmed by a centimetre. 50p a shaft, including point removal and reinsertion, done on proper equipment by someone who knows what he's doing - bargain.