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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 30-12-06, 12:07 AM
Little Miss Purple's Avatar
Practically Perfect
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs:
Sight:
Stabilisers:
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows:

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I'm with Tim on this one - although I'd probably cut my own arrows at Aard's now!!
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 30-12-06, 12:08 AM
TJ Mason's Avatar
Off on one
  • Recurve
  • Compound
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Setup
Riser: Hoyt Axis
Limbs: G3s
Sight: Dual Click+Titan Rec
Stabilisers: MAC Active Balance
Button: Beiter
Bow String: D75 16 strands
Arrows: Nav 610

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Would you cut one of these, though?



(Blatantly ripped off from Ann Elliot, BTW)
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 30-12-06, 12:34 AM
Little Miss Purple's Avatar
Practically Perfect
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  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs:
Sight:
Stabilisers:
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows:

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NO!!! It's the wrong colour!!
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My Countdown Counting down to: Long Mynd double FITA
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-07, 01:16 AM
3rdof5's Avatar
In the Black
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Merlin XV
Limbs:
Sight: Shibuya ultima
Stabilisers: Fuse Carbon CX
Button:
Bow String: Merlin
Arrows:

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Location: Sale, Manchester
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murray View Post
For carbons, the Best Arrow Saw... (Best = brand name, not a recommendation, although it IS good).

Just don't purchase it from Archery World!
I think you mean the Speed Matic Arrow Cutter by Best
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-07, 09:32 AM
BowSurfer's Avatar
In the Blue
  • Recurve
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  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Early Hoyt GM
Limbs: Stylist CarbonFoam 38#
Sight: Arten Olympic
Stabilisers: Beiter 35T2, with Ca
Button:
Bow String: Angel Dyneema
Arrows: Nav FMJ 570

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Location: St Albans
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indy View Post
to stop the shaft ends tapering put a solid piece of metal up the arrow shaft and use your mini pipe cutter, doing it a bit slower will give you a nice clean cut for alloys. as for carbons get your archery shop to cut them,health issues with particles of carbon, nasty stuff you get that inside you.
The problem that I found with a pipe cutter - on aluminiums - was that it had a tendency to 'walk' up the shaft as it rotated, which is not good.
If you do have to cut carbons/carbon-aluminiums, then it is a good idea to wrap the bit of shaft to be cut with a couple of turns of masking tape first. This prevents break out of fibres and gives a cleaner cut. It is also easier to mark the position to cut.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-07, 10:33 AM
ThePinkOne's Avatar
Pink Strings Shoot Better
  • Recurve
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  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Hoyt Ultratec
Sight: SureLoc Challenger
Stabilisers: 30" HMC
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Axis FMJs/Navs

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My tournament arrows I get cut down in the shop... then if they screw up they pay the costs.

Cutting down for pens (or cutting down Beiter rods to play with stabilizer length for that matter), I use a dremmel-type tool (Minicraft drill actually) with the diamond-edged cutter wheel in. Works very well but you do need dust extraction and/or a decent mask- a decent one, not a builders cheapy mind you- if you do many, the dust is very fine and finely divided aluminium/resin not good for the lungs!

I did once cut down an old carbon shaft on a bandsaw with a 14tpi blade on slow-speed, just out of interest... I don't recommend it. Sometimes it works, sometimes it don't. Interesting expeiment though (yes, I do have full extraction on my bandsaw...)

Wooden shafts I use a very fine cross-cut dovetail saw.

DarkHorse.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-07, 03:15 PM
In the Red
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  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Paul Reid Longbow 55#
Sight: Eyeballs
Stabilisers: Ample body mass
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Wood and feather

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Location: Harrow
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My Felco secateurs work very well.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-07, 03:20 PM
Kae's Avatar
Kae Kae is offline
An Oxymoron
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Green Fusion Hoyt Helix
Limbs: Border TXG's 54#
Sight: Shibuya Ultima
Stabilisers: Doinker Rod & Twins
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String:
Arrows: ACE 520's

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Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3,197
Meat Cleaver!

one arrow, two arrow, three arrow, one pinky, eh??

Kae.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 13-02-07, 02:04 PM
wingate_52's Avatar
It's an X
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Black Winact,Jager grip
Limbs: Winex 42#
Sight: Copperjohn with G505
Stabilisers: 31" Doinker carbon
Button: Shibuya
Bow String: 16/18 strand Majesty (R.Young)
Arrows: Nav 610,Fatboys 500 27"

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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Bowdon
Posts: 2,153
Alloys I have cut with a pipe cutter. I needed to cut down some Navigators and reading about dust etc made me rethink the Dremel method. I was going to build an arrow cutting machine but instead did this. I drilled a hole in a block of ash just big enough for the shaft to go through(no wobble, tight fit). marked the arrow to length arrow mark up to planed and flat face of the ash, then supporting the ash in a vice and holding the arrow shaft cut carefully through the shaft with a fine toothed saw. Finish off with a bit of abrasive paper on a sanding block against the planed ash block. Cleaned up the inside with a half turn of a tapered reamer. If you have confidence in your tools you can do most jobs. My most useful tools are Swiss army knife/Leatherman Dremel and routers. Making jigs and fitments often takes more time than the job But this was a quick one. And it has done the job really well.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 13-02-07, 02:46 PM
wingate_52's Avatar
It's an X
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Black Winact,Jager grip
Limbs: Winex 42#
Sight: Copperjohn with G505
Stabilisers: 31" Doinker carbon
Button: Shibuya
Bow String: 16/18 strand Majesty (R.Young)
Arrows: Nav 610,Fatboys 500 27"

Compound Script currently under construction
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Bowdon
Posts: 2,153
Quick picture to show set-up.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...tingJigweb.jpg
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