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| Hints & Tips Feel free to share all your archery tips here. |
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OK, you can only really do it by 1/2 inch- no more. Only if you use long piles. However, I had full-length break-off points so was OK. Basically you cut a section of shaft of extension length, remove the arrow pile, put the section onto the pile then re-insert the pile. If you have full-length break-offs, you will find that the amount you break off to get the lowest mass pile is more than 1/2 inch so when using a full-length pile for extensions you still have more pile glued into the original shaft than you would have if using the break-offs at shortest length. I haven't lost a pile out of extended arrows yet so it does hold well enough. The main use is to give a 1/2 inch more length- and can be used to fine tune your spine on a R/C (lengthed and heavier pile) if you have to drop your bow weight for some reason- especially if the drop is temporary as the extending is fully reversable. That's how I learned about it- I had back problams flare up and had to drop my draw weight therefore spine of arrow for a while. Although the method works well, I don't use it for tournament arrows- not with a/c carbons or pure carbons anyway because if the carbons have been shot much the removal of a layer of carbon on the original shaft means your extensions will sit slightly proud without a bit of work with fine wet-and-dry- issue of consistency. But it can be useful to let you continue to use a set of "hacking around" arrows. It works best if the extensions come from a stock set of full-length shafts, as they are more consistent- it's harder to cut a series of consistent extensions off one shaft, especially if not using a commercial arrow saw, even with a jig... Not such a big deal really. P.
__________________ ThePinkOne Speed, which becomes a virtue when it is found in a horse, by itself has no advantages |
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| cut off saw go on line & punch up harborfreight.com. then look up mni-cutoff saw. $23.99 |
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| Then add shipping costs, import duty/VAT, the cost of a transformer to get a 110v product working on a 240v supply... I figure, an arrow saw bought via an archery shop will cost 200 quid. My local shop cuts arrows at 50p a go. So, I can do my own arrows, or get 400 arrows cut at a shop who do it on a day to day basis and will get it right first time. No contest.
__________________ If you make something idiot proof, all that happens is someone builds a better idiot. |
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what the heck is a quid ![]() |
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| Quid - pound sterling - GBP - about $1.98. ![]()
__________________ If you make something idiot proof, all that happens is someone builds a better idiot. |
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I have one of these saws, how do you manage to turn the arrow whilst closing the handle to cut, in order not to split the carbon? If you just leave the arrow in the clamp you always seem to end up with a splinter when it cuts through. Is there a technique? I also have an Easton Arrow Saw, any idea where I can get spare blades for it in the States by mail order? |
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| Have you tried wrapping the shaft with masking tape before cutting - it is a good general technique to avoid break out and give a good clean cut.
__________________ The optimist believes that this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist fears that this is probably true! | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Thanks BowSurfer I'll give that a try and report on progress. I suppose it's also useful for marking the length if you're cutting a set? |
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| Definitely! at least with my eyesight working to pencil markings on a carbon shaft is tricky to say the least.
__________________ The optimist believes that this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist fears that this is probably true! | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
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