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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 16-02-07, 12:10 AM
Little Miss Purple's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whisky View Post
Never tamper with your shaft length

Oh...I'm so tempted to make a comment to this
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 16-02-07, 09:16 AM
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Pink Strings Shoot Better
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Limbs: Hoyt Ultratec
Sight: SureLoc Challenger
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Arrows: Axis FMJs/Navs

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Little Miss Purple View Post
OK, I'm just a bit scared now!!!

HOW do you make your arrows longer???
Quite easily....

OK, you can only really do it by 1/2 inch- no more. Only if you use long piles. However, I had full-length break-off points so was OK.

Basically you cut a section of shaft of extension length, remove the arrow pile, put the section onto the pile then re-insert the pile. If you have full-length break-offs, you will find that the amount you break off to get the lowest mass pile is more than 1/2 inch so when using a full-length pile for extensions you still have more pile glued into the original shaft than you would have if using the break-offs at shortest length. I haven't lost a pile out of extended arrows yet so it does hold well enough.

The main use is to give a 1/2 inch more length- and can be used to fine tune your spine on a R/C (lengthed and heavier pile) if you have to drop your bow weight for some reason- especially if the drop is temporary as the extending is fully reversable. That's how I learned about it- I had back problams flare up and had to drop my draw weight therefore spine of arrow for a while.

Although the method works well, I don't use it for tournament arrows- not with a/c carbons or pure carbons anyway because if the carbons have been shot much the removal of a layer of carbon on the original shaft means your extensions will sit slightly proud without a bit of work with fine wet-and-dry- issue of consistency. But it can be useful to let you continue to use a set of "hacking around" arrows.

It works best if the extensions come from a stock set of full-length shafts, as they are more consistent- it's harder to cut a series of consistent extensions off one shaft, especially if not using a commercial arrow saw, even with a jig...

Not such a big deal really.

P.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 23-05-07, 07:42 PM
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Limbs: Martin s4, cougar.
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cut off saw

go on line & punch up harborfreight.com. then look up mni-cutoff saw. $23.99
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 23-05-07, 08:54 PM
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Then add shipping costs, import duty/VAT, the cost of a transformer to get a 110v product working on a 240v supply...

I figure, an arrow saw bought via an archery shop will cost 200 quid.
My local shop cuts arrows at 50p a go.
So, I can do my own arrows, or get 400 arrows cut at a shop who do it on a day to day basis and will get it right first time. No contest.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 23-05-07, 11:11 PM
In the White
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Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Martin s4, cougar.
Sight: tox naildriver
Stabilisers: X10
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: cxl 150

Setup
Bow:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirt View Post
Then add shipping costs, import duty/VAT, the cost of a transformer to get a 110v product working on a 240v supply...

I figure, an arrow saw bought via an archery shop will cost 200 quid.
My local shop cuts arrows at 50p a go.
So, I can do my own arrows, or get 400 arrows cut at a shop who do it on a day to day basis and will get it right first time. No contest.
forgot, you guys have funny electric.
what the heck is a quid
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 23-05-07, 11:25 PM
Shirt's Avatar
In the Gold
  • Recurve
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Setup
Riser: Axis
Limbs: G3
Sight: Sureloc
Stabilisers: ACE
Button: Beiter/Cartel
Bow String: Yellow
Arrows: ACE

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
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Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
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Quid - pound sterling - GBP - about $1.98.
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 29-05-07, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike lepera BRITESITE View Post
go on line & punch up harborfreight.com. then look up mni-cutoff saw. $23.99
Mike,

I have one of these saws, how do you manage to turn the arrow whilst closing the handle to cut, in order not to split the carbon? If you just leave the arrow in the clamp you always seem to end up with a splinter when it cuts through.

Is there a technique?

I also have an Easton Arrow Saw, any idea where I can get spare blades for it in the States by mail order?
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 31-05-07, 09:35 AM
BowSurfer's Avatar
In the Blue
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Setup
Riser: Early Hoyt GM
Limbs: Stylist CarbonFoam 38#
Sight: Arten Olympic
Stabilisers: Beiter 35T2, with Ca
Button:
Bow String: Angel Dyneema
Arrows: Nav FMJ 570

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Quote:
Originally Posted by worthipa View Post
Mike,

I have one of these saws, how do you manage to turn the arrow whilst closing the handle to cut, in order not to split the carbon? If you just leave the arrow in the clamp you always seem to end up with a splinter when it cuts through.

Is there a technique?
Have you tried wrapping the shaft with masking tape before cutting - it is a good general technique to avoid break out and give a good clean cut.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 31-05-07, 11:44 AM
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Thanks BowSurfer I'll give that a try and report on progress.

I suppose it's also useful for marking the length if you're cutting a set?
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 31-05-07, 09:16 PM
BowSurfer's Avatar
In the Blue
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Early Hoyt GM
Limbs: Stylist CarbonFoam 38#
Sight: Arten Olympic
Stabilisers: Beiter 35T2, with Ca
Button:
Bow String: Angel Dyneema
Arrows: Nav FMJ 570

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
Stabs:
Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: St Albans
Posts: 355

Affiliations & Declarations (Click Here)
Affiliation: GNAS
Club: Abbey Bowmen (Herts)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worthipa View Post
Thanks BowSurfer I'll give that a try and report on progress.

I suppose it's also useful for marking the length if you're cutting a set?
Definitely! at least with my eyesight working to pencil markings on a carbon shaft is tricky to say the least.
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