Moving a beiter nock point

[Murray]

Starting from the lower end of the serving to move the point down, or the top end to move the point up, put the edge of a piece of metal (NOT a sharp piece of metal like a knife edge) in between a couple of servings and push/pull to separate the servings (i find you can create about a one or two serving strands gap). Move up 3/4 strands and repeat, moving these into the gap you created. Repeat all the way to the other end of the serving.

As a tool, I use a pocket knife with a bottle opener. I use the edge of the bottle opener to press between the serving threads.



Note that after 3 or 4 of these full-serving moves, the serving may be quite loose, but you should have been able to identify the right nocking point, and so can now remove the serving and re-serve in the right place.

Note that I don't recommend this for the initial height setting when first tuning a bow - I simply use masking tape for that - this is fine tuning once you've got a rough idea where your nock should be.

I usually use the side of my BH guage (lazy).I've a swiss army knife in my bag so I'll give that a go and see if it's any easier, thanks Murray

[Murray]

BH Guage would probably work too, I just find that particular blade to be easier for me. not sure why - perhaps the slight curvature helps? let us know how you get on!

[buzz lite beer]

Will try that on the ones I didn't superglue on the string in frustration of them moving out of position when I served them on in the first place. Which version of the Bieter Nock point do you find favour with, the serve up and back down type that just shows the nock point area, or the one that scores grooves in your tab.

[Murray]

I personally prefer the threaded version.
My tab is cut wide between the fingers anyway, so no grooves in my tab

Threaded for me too