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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 22-01-07, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimster71 View Post
I had a look around on the internet after my first session and noticed that point was different. Kept my mouth shut though as I figured they knew what they were doing! We start with using one finger above, this week.
Did the coach explain to you why you started off with three fingers below the arrow?
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 22-01-07, 03:01 PM
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In the Gold
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Setup
Riser: Hoyt Eclipse (Black)
Limbs: KAP Challenge Kraft
Sight: Cartel K-Sight (ish)
Stabilisers: Cartel Carbon Rod
Button: Cartel
Bow String: Fastflight (red)
Arrows: XX75 1816s

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No, he may explain that when we switch over (or I may ask to make sure he does). What is the reason? We also started off using the corner of the mouth as an anchor point, but will be switching to under the chin/jaw.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 22-01-07, 03:11 PM
ThePinkOne's Avatar
Pink Strings Shoot Better
  • Recurve
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Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Hoyt Ultratec
Sight: SureLoc Challenger
Stabilisers: 30" HMC
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Axis FMJs/Navs

Setup
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Traditional Script currently under construction
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimster71 View Post
No, he may explain that when we switch over (or I may ask to make sure he does). What is the reason? We also started off using the corner of the mouth as an anchor point, but will be switching to under the chin/jaw.
The usual adult can point the arrow at the middle at 10yds or so with 3 fingers under on the usual training bow and that's where the arrow will go. Once you get one finger on top, you get more height. Better for longer range, but the shorter ranges you have to aim lower- often black 6 o'clock or so. When I was working on have-a-gos, the coach used to always tell me, three under if they are over 4'6" tall, one above two below if they are shorter. Basically that meant that if they aimed at the gold that's pretty much where the arrows would go.

However, the one up two down and hand under chin is then used for freestyle (with sights on), so there is a progression. The speed of the progression will depend on the coach- in my experience (a) how comfortable they are with sights (I know some BB coaches who find it difficult to teach FS) and (b) the beginner. I have also known coaches switch pepple over sooner as the change in hand position to under the chin can make it easier to get on the back for some physiques.

As to the "teaching sequence." I am told that in the Olden Days, beginners would be taught with a sight immediately. Now the GNAS system is to teach barebow first, then onto sights. I was told the change was because it is less for the brain to get hold of in one go.....

So to go back to your question. Using one-above-two below and referencing to the "corner of the smile" with the first finger and aiming low on the boss is one bare-bow technique (also used on long-bow). Using three fingers underneath the arrow and aiming at the gold is another BB technique. Once you get a sight on the bow you will have one finger above, two below and the paw will be under the chin. Different variations for different purposes. Hope that helps a little.

P.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 22-01-07, 03:18 PM
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In the Gold
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Setup
Riser: Hoyt Eclipse (Black)
Limbs: KAP Challenge Kraft
Sight: Cartel K-Sight (ish)
Stabilisers: Cartel Carbon Rod
Button: Cartel
Bow String: Fastflight (red)
Arrows: XX75 1816s

Setup
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Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
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Thanks for the explanation. We are also starting with sights this lesson, which links in with the change in positions that you mention above.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 23-01-07, 09:58 AM
ThePinkOne's Avatar
Pink Strings Shoot Better
  • Recurve
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Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Hoyt Ultratec
Sight: SureLoc Challenger
Stabilisers: 30" HMC
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Axis FMJs/Navs

Setup
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimster71 View Post
Thanks for the explanation. We are also starting with sights this lesson, which links in with the change in positions that you mention above.
The change to sighs is always interesting, and a one which can be difficult to time. Initially, most people find their previous "scores" drop until they get the hang of the new option. As with everything in archery, you have to work at it and give it time before you decide "it doesn't work." But if you hanker after the Olympics, a sight is pretty essential.

P.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 24-01-07, 10:38 AM
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In the Black
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Limbs: Matrix 70" Merlin Eli
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Arrows: Easton 3-39 ACCs and

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Listen to the coach and only the coach for the duration of the course. A good one will be trying to sort out the most important aspects of your form first. You won't learn it all in a week, and some errors need to be corrected before others.

A lot of the rules of archery are there for safety, but perhaps not obviously so. Again listen carefully. For example you should stand to one side of the boss when arrows are being pulled out - because getting the nock end of an arrow in the eye will cause serious injury. You walk up to the boss to retrieve arrows because tripping over, face first into a boss full of arrows, is not a good idea. The point I'm labouring to make is that a lot of what I first took to be etiquette is really about being safe.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 24-01-07, 11:32 AM
Jimster71's Avatar
In the Gold
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Hoyt Eclipse (Black)
Limbs: KAP Challenge Kraft
Sight: Cartel K-Sight (ish)
Stabilisers: Cartel Carbon Rod
Button: Cartel
Bow String: Fastflight (red)
Arrows: XX75 1816s

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
Stabs:
Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Liverpool, UK
Posts: 701

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They do seem quite big on the safety aspect, which is good. Had the arrow collection explained to us last week as we are now collecting our own arrows between ends (under supervision of the coach).
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 24-01-07, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePinkOne View Post
The usual adult can point the arrow at the middle at 10yds or so with 3 fingers under on the usual training bow and that's where the arrow will go. Once you get one finger on top, you get more height. Better for longer range, but the shorter ranges you have to aim lower- often black 6 o'clock or so. When I was working on have-a-gos, the coach used to always tell me, three under if they are over 4'6" tall, one above two below if they are shorter. Basically that meant that if they aimed at the gold that's pretty much where the arrows would go.

However, the one up two down and hand under chin is then used for freestyle (with sights on), so there is a progression. The speed of the progression will depend on the coach- in my experience (a) how comfortable they are with sights (I know some BB coaches who find it difficult to teach FS) and (b) the beginner. I have also known coaches switch pepple over sooner as the change in hand position to under the chin can make it easier to get on the back for some physiques.

As to the "teaching sequence." I am told that in the Olden Days, beginners would be taught with a sight immediately. Now the GNAS system is to teach barebow first, then onto sights. I was told the change was because it is less for the brain to get hold of in one go.....

So to go back to your question. Using one-above-two below and referencing to the "corner of the smile" with the first finger and aiming low on the boss is one bare-bow technique (also used on long-bow). Using three fingers underneath the arrow and aiming at the gold is another BB technique. Once you get a sight on the bow you will have one finger above, two below and the paw will be under the chin. Different variations for different purposes. Hope that helps a little.

P.
The way it was explained to me is that the 3 finger under Point of Aim method is supposed to be easier for the beginner to aim, giving a more "natural" aiming down the length of the arrow (as one would when throwing a dart) and also gives a better line for the shoulders and forearm of the arm drawing the string. A mediteranean (freestyle) loose under the chin is supposed to be much harder for the beginner to achieve initially, so instead we teach them POA, and just as they get used to it, we change everything and confuse the little darlings all over again. This results in about 20% of any class not wanting/liking/being able to make the transition to the freestyle draw
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 24-01-07, 02:44 PM
Jimster71's Avatar
In the Gold
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Hoyt Eclipse (Black)
Limbs: KAP Challenge Kraft
Sight: Cartel K-Sight (ish)
Stabilisers: Cartel Carbon Rod
Button: Cartel
Bow String: Fastflight (red)
Arrows: XX75 1816s

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
Stabs:
Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Liverpool, UK
Posts: 701

Affiliations & Declarations (Click Here)
Affiliation:
Club:
Commercial:
Commercial Interest:
GNAS Classification:
IFAA Classification:

AIUK Rankings & Live Shoots (Click Here)

Will be interesting to see if I make the switch ok! I have started a journal on here to document my (lack of) progress over the course and beyond.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 26-01-07, 10:26 AM
ThePinkOne's Avatar
Pink Strings Shoot Better
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Hoyt Ultratec
Sight: SureLoc Challenger
Stabilisers: 30" HMC
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Axis FMJs/Navs

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
Stabs:
Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: UK- South Wales
Posts: 893

Affiliations & Declarations (Click Here)
Affiliation:
Club:
Commercial:
Commercial Interest:
GNAS Classification:
IFAA Classification:

AIUK Rankings & Live Shoots (Click Here)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Little Bow Pete View Post
Listen to the coach and only the coach for the duration of the course. A good one will be trying to sort out the most important aspects of your form first. You won't learn it all in a week, and some errors need to be corrected before others.

A lot of the rules of archery are there for safety, but perhaps not obviously so. Again listen carefully. For example you should stand to one side of the boss when arrows are being pulled out - because getting the nock end of an arrow in the eye will cause serious injury. You walk up to the boss to retrieve arrows because tripping over, face first into a boss full of arrows, is not a good idea. The point I'm labouring to make is that a lot of what I first took to be etiquette is really about being safe.
Spot on.

Also remember a beginners' course is just that- the basics. Once you get on the line on club nights if you are unsafe or tack the club members off too much they are likely to bite back... Little things like loading the bow horizontally or pulling someone's arrows out without asking them first, (if someone is shooting X10s off a compound they really may not want you to pull them)

In addition to the safety/range rules there is the etiquette. Not sure how many clubs "teach" it. Although it sounds outdated the etiquette is one of the things that helps us all to bump along amicably with a mix of all levels in a small space (as the typical indoor range usually is). Those little courtesies make the whole thing better for everyone, so even if it seems old-fashioned, please do take note.

It will take longer than you think to get a good technique developed, main thing is to listen to the coaches and keep going- they may alter your form to correct a basic problem, and initially your "scores" are likely to get worse. Thing to do then is persist with the changes not switch back because "it hasn't worked" after trying it for only one end.

Regards.

P.
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Speed, which becomes a virtue when it is found in a horse, by itself has no advantages
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