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| Only just noticed this thread. I was invited to take part in the Easton test group for the Pin nock when they first manufacturered them for X10s. I had exactly the same problems as described at the beginning of the thread and that was my feedback to GT. Whenever I broke a nock the shaft was either immediately cracked - or it cracked within a few weeks. I liked the nocks but immediately changed back to Beiter over fits (and I do pay for my own arrows ) Pins were hot melted in because a) that is what GT told me to do and b) in .410s they fell out when you shot them if you used light adhesive like pritt.I would never recommend Overfits for close distance shooting though - disaster. I also tend to split the collars on in-outs. Maybe I'm just naturally a nock breaker Obviously YMMV Stretch |
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| Hi Stretch That was interesting info. SInce youhave so much trouble at close range, what do you use then for a nock for the short ranges - or do you just change arrows?? |
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| Damn I knew there was a small but of info I was not able to access to get where I wanted to get so simple and cheaper in the long run hehe |
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just make sure tho that when you cut the pin off DO NOT file it flush because if you hit it you drive the pin down into the shaft, you need to leave a little nipple on the end to deflect the arrow |
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| bjames1440 Hi You do what I have been doing regarding the pins except I have been filing mine flush . I guess I 've been lucky so far because the rear enders I've had haven't damaged the arrow, thank God!I've been tempted to turn up some of my own but with a conical section in place of the pin itself to act as a deflector. Perhaps a project for the next rainy day.......come to think of it that could be a long time off. Maybe I'll do it real soon. We aren't known as the driest continent in the world for nothing and I've pretty much forgotten what rain looks like. Want to send us some?? ![]() |
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I have a mix set of very tatty old X10s (some dating back to 97 but it is hard to tell because there are no logos on them anymore)all cut to the same length that I shoot at very short distance (with Beiter in/outs fwiw).When I'm tuning or can't resist the urge to shoot groups, I just accept that there is a very high possibilty that I'm going to destroy arrows Obviously if you want to shoot indoors competitively - this doesn't work. Stretch |
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| Agreed. If you want to compete at the top level then you cant be affraid of spending money. it doesnt really seem fair but unortunatly that just seems to be the trend.
__________________ The Italian stalions | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| i also found that the out nocks didnt group as well as the pin nocks. either at 18 meters or 70. so i am staying with the pin nocks.
__________________ "The opportunity to secure ourselves against defeat lies in our own hands, but the opportunity of defeating the enemy is provided by the enemy himself"....Sun Tzu |
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| I had probs with pin nocks too last summer, on Navs (saving up for X10s for next summer). I had to retire 3 arrows from one set and 2 from another- all with longitudinal spilts developing. I had put pins in on the basis they protect the arrow. As an experiment, I've redone whats left of one set with in-out nocks and left the other set with pins so I can have a play and see what I prefer before I buy X10s for the summer. The thing I didn't like with pins was the nocks themselves; they didn't last so long, became a loose fit in the string. Also, on a stock compound string they were too small and had to be heated to get a fit, not very consistent. OK, not a prob if you have bespoke strings on, but not ideal- they seem designed for R/C not compound. I've used Beiter nocks on indoor arrows and like the consistency of fit, and the in-out nocks seem well made. They also fit on my compound string much better than the pin-nocks did, and I also managed to get the symmetric "hunter" design for shooting with d-loops. See what works best in the experiment with the Navs I guess. DarkHorse. |
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