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| Just read through this little lot after a hard night so forgive me if youve tried this: How deep down is the broken portion? Can you possibly score a slot into it to remove it with a screwdriver. You'll need a tool harder than the screw itself of course Or be prepared to ruin the tool- or get an engraving tool to it. If it's too deep I'd consider drilling just a small hole into it as centrally as possible..leaving it to cool..then superglueing the bit into the hole inthe broken screw, coming back later to reverse it out..if you know what I mean? Worked once on a crankcasing for me and that was alloy casing/steel screw! |
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| Great news Steve! ![]() I don't know how big an area of the annodizing you've taken off, but when I had a trapdoor rest on my UltraTec it scratched off some of the annodizing on the tec bar. I "repaired" it by scribbling over it with a permanent marker pen that's used for writing on OHP slides (red for my Inferno colour scheme, green for you ). Hides the area nicely and you wouldn't notice it without looking for it. So far the ink has stayed on, even when I was shooting in the rain and hail on Wednesday.Not a perfect solution, but better than nothing ![]() |
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| Went hunting for and eventually found what i hope to be the correct shade of Nail Varnish this afternoon will put a few drops on and hopefully it`ll all be good ![]() Will set bow up later on too and check the risers still straight (just for peace of mind)
__________________ "Where`s the CUSTARD |
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| phew! it'll still be straight, unless you tightened it in the vice as tight as you fasten your screws in, I was refering before about tightening bolts, on initial instalation of your sight or other ancillary equipment, there should be no need to tighten bolts down till they are squeeking in the threads. ![]()
__________________ Gliddy glub gloopy,Nibby nabby noopy,La la la lo lo, Sabba sibby sabba,Nooby abba nabba,Le le lo lo, Tooby ooby walla,Nooby abba naba, Early morning singing song |
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| I`m sure it will be straight jsut want to set me mind at rest ![]() as me Pops did give it a hefty tap with a large hammer (which is how i ended up with the scratches on the tec bar) When i first fitted the sight it kept coming loose so i tightened it so it was tight but not over tight, then had a shoot in the rain and let it air dry (rust is the greatest thread lock) hadn`t moved for 7 months or so until it dropped of yesterday ![]()
__________________ "Where`s the CUSTARD |
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| I`m in Kent but it`s ok now sight block is re attached and all sorted was just bloomin scarey yesterday afternoon when one our 1st attempt we couldn`t get it to move, but eventually got it out and Pops has 38 years worth of various tools Nuts, Bolts, Screws of all sizes and sorts we managed to find one that went in, today i went and got some screw covers from B&Q to cover them up as it`s now an odd pair of screws so all sorted ![]()
__________________ "Where`s the CUSTARD |
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| Steve, It's a bit late now, but one way of getting busted screws out of a riser for example is to get in touch with an engineering company that can do "spark eroding", this process uses an electric current to eat away whatever metal you want removed and if done properly can leave the threaded hole in pristine condition. If you start getting trouble with the self tapper working loose, don't retighten it too many times as it might cause excessive damage to the hole in the riser, as others have said, get it to an engineering company and get a thread repair insert like a "Heli-coil" put in. Hope this advise may come in handy for anyone else with similar problems. Cheers, Jim.
__________________ If at first you don't succeed, try, try again, then give up, blame the equipment and have a beer. |
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| If the hole goes all the way through the riser, then a small drill being used on the bottom of the snapped bolt will often drive the bit out. The direction of the drill cutting is the same as the normal right hand thread. A small amount off WD 40 first in the hole and left to sit for a while wouldnt do any harm either. |
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