Any Suggestions ?

[GreenSteve]

Today while shooting my sight came loose
on closer examination the sight block mounting screw (that attaches sight block to riser)
has snapped off inside the riser
i`ve tried all sorts to get it out including going over to my parents and trying to use my Dads Screw Extractor kit with 0 success
(Now sadly have damage to the Tec Bar from the Vice in addition)

Soo the questions are
A) Does anyone know where i can go to get the screw removed
B) Does anyone know where i can enquire about having the riser Re-Anodised

Ps. Yes i am absolutely gutted no shooting til it`s sorted

[english_archer]

Hi sorry to hear about your riser ,I would guess that any repitable engineering company should be able to drill out the screw and retap the hole for you (you may end up having to have slightly larger screws so get the sight done at same time .A search thru the yellow pages may find you a chroming company local to you most of those tend to do anodising aswell hope this helps

[Raphe]

Originally Posted by GreenSteve

Yes i am absolutely gutted no shooting til it`s sorted

That's grim. Unlucky.

Can the manufacturer help? Either the sight manufacturer (was the screw faulty? Do they owe you a repaired riser?) or the riser people (its not thier problem really, but good customer relations might suggest they help out).

Racking my brains beyond passing the buck... a screw extractor would've been my first stoptoo, I'f I'd had one.

Unfortunately, it probably precludes my second suggestion, which would've been to try supergluing the broken screw back together (without gluing it into the thread!) and gently turning it: would only work if the break were at an angle, I guess.

Reaching wildly, you might try gentle heating. Depending on materials, the socket might expand more than the screw, and thus be more removable if you find some way to grip it (superglue again).

Last resort might be archaeological dremelling, hoping to get the screw to crumble out of the thread as you drill away its core. I guess this is the equivalent of going all out and redrilling and retapping the hole in a workshop.


DISCLAIMER: All of the above will probably destroy your bow, raise mortgage rates, and make Prescott Prime minister. Don't try unless you've already abandoned all hope.

[buzz lite beer]

Oh shi7e! sorry to hear about that Steve, I have in the past managed to get a broken stud out of a rifle scope mount by putting a centre punch dent at the edge of the offending stud, then using an electricians terminal screw driver tapped the stud in an anti-clockwise direction till it was exposed enough to get a set of grips on the threads, drilling the offending blighter out and getting the hole heli coiled is an option too, don't know of any anodizers that I could recommend, though you may consider http://www.hydro-graphics.co.uk/index2.html gives a top quality finish and extremely hard wearing and durable.

[numpty]

A good repitable engineering company should be able to drill out the screw and retap the hole for you . As for Anodising I only know of one Anodisers around here in Hertfordshire. Pm me if you need or want their name.
Good luck
Ian

[GreenSteve]

Originally Posted by buzz lite beer

Oh shi7e! sorry to hear about that Steve, I have in the past managed to get a broken stud out of a rifle scope mount by putting a centre punch dent at the edge of the offending stud, then using an electricians terminal screw driver tapped the stud in an anti-clockwise direction till it was exposed enough to get a set of grips on the threads, drilling the offending blighter out and getting the hole heli coiled is an option too, don't know of any anodizers that I could recommend, though you may consider http://www.hydro-graphics.co.uk/index2.html gives a top quality finish and extremely hard wearing and durable.

Ooo that Hydro Graphics does look interesting
wonder how much it costs, the damage to the Tec bar is whats got me thinking about re finishing, had riser wrapped in a towel in me Dad`s vice but when trying to use the extractor kit he couldn`t get a bite so tapped it with a hammer

hmmm wnodering if a new riser is going ot be my best option
and if so which
Top Choice would be another Helix (preferably in same colour)
or Nexus (Probably in Black)
or Border Tornado but not seen one up close so unsure about the grip
bah loved my helix sooo much

[Wrexham Exile]

merlin can re annodise but it all depends if they can get the bushings out. they charge around 30 quid too i think.

[buzz lite beer]

about £60 for a rifle stock Steve, so there abouts for a riser, they have a baked bean version as well as the jelly bean one shown, tempting very temping. though you are gutted about the damage a new riser is not really necessary but if it's that upsetting for you get it fettled as best as and flog it off, someone will be happy to own a slightly damaged riser of that ilk with a suitable discount, though my £195 Matrix will shoot as straight as a Helix, Inno, or anything else that's bright and shiny available today and worthy of consideration as a replacement

[buzz lite beer]

oh, and don't tighten your sight block screws so much next time, If they have a tendancy to come undone put a little wax or dental floss in the threads, closing the stable door and all that.

[ThePinkOne]

Any steel screws that I put into my riser that I might want to get out again, I use a little (Halfords cycle) grease. Sounds like you need to have the old bolt driled out then re-tapped, put in a new screw and don't forget the grease. Plus if you get a metric thread tapped in it'll be much easier to find a screw!

I learned a hard lesson a few years ago. I had a puncture, so loosened the wheelnuts, jacked the car up, got the nuts out... but could I get the alloy wheels off the hub? Could I hell. A vanload of contractors stopped to help.. They couldn't shift it either.

Needed a big rubber-headed hammer to shift it in the end. Why? Well, you put steel and alloy together without grease/copperslip and they will seize. From henceforth I always remind the type change guys to pop a bit of copperslip on the wheelhubs (they must hate me, stroppy female or what?) and I also pop a bit of grease on the steel screws on my sight and rest. PTFE tape is another option. Even though I shoot a fast compound, they don't come undone either. On the other hand, the base weights on my stabilizers do come undone; for these and other such screws (e.g. cam mods), I use blue threadlock.

Another thing to remember is that on some bows, the threads on the new riser might not have been cleaned- if you ask your dealer should be willing to run a tap through the holes before use, this clears out any rubbish that may also help bind in the bolts that then shear.

P.