Numpty tuning stiff arrows

[Jerry Tee]

I would go for the heavier limbs and as for the pile changing I always quench the shaft as soon as I have got the pile in or out to take the heat out of the shaft.

[gnorth]

Hiya, I'm new to this, but note some shooting colleagues names amongst those gathered.

I have a Yamaha bow and have just invested in new A/C/C 920 2-04's and have spent the last few days trying to tune them.

I've got the nocking point correct and the centre shot looks bang on where it should be, but I can do nothing about the bare shaft inpacting a good 18 inches to the left of the group at 20 yards. I've run out of adjustment on my button, and there is actually no pressure at all on the button, and that bareshaft just won't come and play with the others.

Q's that come to mind are
1 - how do I know if I can wind up my bow and see if that helps?
2. Do i just have the wrong arrows?
3. Any suggestions?

Ta

Gina

[Murray]

Originally Posted by geoffretired

I understand the tweaking demon has a poewrful influence. Perhaps the tweaking is better aimed at small fletched groups rather than bare shaft in the group.

Absolutely right, and unfortunately there are many ways to get the bareshaft in the group, few of them will result in the best/most forgiving group, but hey, you have to start somewhere and I've always found that a good bareshaft tune is the place to start (providing it's in the group from 30 to 70meters and the walkback is straight), then you can start fine-tuning for groups at your desired distance - note that a fine tune for one distance will not necessarily be a fine tune for them all (in fact it rarely is!)

[tel]

Originally Posted by Murray

...note that a fine tune for one distance will not necessarily be a fine tune for them all (in fact it rarely is!)

With that in mind Murray, what do you think would be the better option: tune for groups at your weakest distance to bring it into line, or for your strongest to maximise the advantage?

[Marcus26]

tekno
I would do what the others suggested, use a tie on nocking point and possibly a lighter string. How many strands do you have now in it?
After that you will have to go heavier in arrow. Changing point weight is worth a try but may produce little change.
2# should be OK, depending on how you are weighted in at the moment, I would suggest go with 32# limbs as this gives you more room to move.

[King Custard]

Originally Posted by teknohippy

Question 3: On another note, how do I get the points out of me ACCs?

Question 4: Will swapping brass nocking points for some tied on floss increase the energy going into the arrow by a discernible amount?

Question 3:I've nothing better to add to the thread- all's been said I think but for re-pointing I like to use a wet tea-towel wrapped around the shaft of my arrows and apply the pile directly to the outermost ring of my electic cooker hob.......the wet towel conducts any heat away from the carbon very effectively, the direct heat to the pile melts the glue very fast...not so much as a lick of flame to my carbon -and no burned pinkies!
Question 4:I've recently gone over to the bieter nock-point- a good advantage weightwise over brass....and more consistent 'fit' than floss - though likely the same weight as the two floss points- the bieter is easier to move after than superglued flossies, I've found.

[madmac]

Originally Posted by geoffretired

This is a very interesting point.I wonder how often archers stop the tuning session when they have a theoretically good set up. If better grouping comes from a set up that seems less than perfect,it is worth finding.

I had the same problem bareshaft in with fletched arrows grouping was rubbish ,bareshaft of to left (righthanded) outside blue grouping very tight at 20 and 40 i didnt have to adjust windage for any distance just up and down on sight.If you read tuuning for tens it does state that after you finished tinkering shoot fletched arrows then bareshaft at 18meters and record where the bareshaft lands, I think its down to the archer to find the one that works for them and then stick with it

[Marcus26]

It's also quite likely too that the archer has a fundamentl form fault that is causing them to tune the bow badly despite what the bareshaft says.

[Murray]

Originally Posted by tel

With that in mind Murray, what do you think would be the better option: tune for groups at your weakest distance to bring it into line, or for your strongest to maximise the advantage?

Longest distance at which I can shoot consistent groups... personally this is 70m for me. If I get 70m right, 90m is generally close, and these are the distances where I lose most points in a competition

[ThePinkOne]

Originally Posted by Marcus26

It's also quite likely too that the archer has a fundamentl form fault that is causing them to tune the bow badly despite what the bareshaft says.

Perhaps even more than "quite likely"... I know one coach used to always say "first tune the archer then tune the bow." Plus this is all theoretical- I'm not sure relly how much difference a PERFECT set-up makes compared with a reasable one for most of us. Obviously it's different with the top people- but personally until my form catches up I ain't going to worry about more than a rough tune. Once I'm chasing the odd extra gold each dozen at 70m (my longest distance)- then I'll worry about fine-tuning!

JMO though- some people do enjoy tinkering.......

P.