Recurve Tuning - The way it should be done (or at least one of them)

[Kae]

I thought this article could eventually be added to the Wiki, but because the topic is complicated (and I don't pretend to understand it fully) I thought I'd post it here first (also haven't got 'round to working out how to use the wiki), so that it can be scrutinised. Please feel free to comment.

Kae.


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Recurve Tuning - The way it should be done (or at least one of them)

This is the Recurve tuning technique (also for compound finger shooters (Limited Style)) as described by James Park and thought to have been originally used by Dick Tone for over 30 years, with interpretation as necessary by myself.

The main advantage of this technique is that it is relatively easy, guess-work free and gives instantly good results. After tuning, there is no need for micro-tuning or walk-backs or paper tear’s, all of which have their downfalls.

This tuning technique assumes that:

• The Actual bow length correlates to your draw length (ie your not using a bow that is too short or long for your actual draw length).
• Your riser has adjustable weight and alignment settings.
• Your arrows are roughly the correct spine and length
• You use both a sight and clicker (If you shoot barebow, then a clicker and sight should be added whilst you are tuning)
• You have good technique, especially bow hand.

Initial bow setup:

• Use correct string length and set Bracing height as per manufacturer’s recommendations (this should be the recommendation of the limb manufacturer not of the riser if this is different).
• Set Tiller (Top limb 1/8" greater than bottom limb)
• Set limb alignment (center of limb/riser - If your riser has cut-outs or is twisted making it difficult to precisely find bow center, then use of Beiter limb center gauges will be needed for accuracy).

To tune bow;

• The button should be solid, so no movement. This can be achieved by placing a matchstick in place of the spring inside the button.
• Set the center-shot to central, so the arrow is perfectly in line with the string/limbs/riser.
• Shoot several fletched and unfletched arrows at 15/20 yards.
• Adjust nocking point so that both sets of arrows impact at the same height (horizontal spread is ok, this is purely for the vertical setting).
• Now adjust bow poundage to group both sets of arrows together (now a tight grouping should be possible).
• Now adjust your sight to put the group roughly central on the target
• Remove matchstick from button, replace with spring and set to a reasonable pressure.
  The higher the poundage of the bow, the stiffer the button should be set.
• Adjust the center-shot to the "normal position". - The higher the bow poundage, the more to the right the arrow should be away from the rest but never more than the arrow point width.
• Shoot fletched arrows. If the group is going left, then move the centershot to the right and vice versa. THIS MEANS YOUR MOVING THE BUTTON TO CHANGE CENTER-SHOT, NOT CHANGING THE BUTTON PRESSURE!
• Powder test to ensure that the arrows are leaving the bow cleanly and the button isn't bottoming out. If this is the case then a higher spring tension should be used and tuning re-done.
• Shoot long distance to ensure arrow flight is good.

Notes:
Because bare-shafts are lighter than fletched arrows (no vanes!), the settings that will be gained by carrying out this tuning will actually be slightly exaggerated, but this only aids clearance as the variation in weight/aerodynamic stability is very small.

[Zippo]

Adjust the center-shot to the "normal position". - The higher the bow poundage, the more to the right the arrow should be away from the rest but never more than the arrow point width.

Hmm I don't quite understand this part. The higher the bow poundage, the arrow should more right or left? If right, should it ever go past right of centreshot?

[Kae]

I couldn't think of a term better than center-shot, although if anyone has any better ideas then they would be great fully received.

All tuning guides say that the arrow should be pointing marginally away from the bow's true center when tuning is done (away from the rest). You should never be able to see more than the last quarter/third of the arrow when looking down the bow center (line string with limbs/riser then look at position of the arrow), which means you shouldn't be able to see the entire pile.

Therefore, the higher the poundage the more to the left the end of the arrow should be (further form the rest).

If wanted, I can work on photographs to show all of these points.

Kae.

[Zippo]

okay I understand this part

Therefore, the higher the poundage the more to the left the end of the arrow should be (further form the rest).

But this part is still a little confusing .. and yes, photographs or simple diagrams will help a lot.

You should never be able to see more than the last quarter/third of the arrow when looking down the bow center (line string with limbs/riser then look at position of the arrow), which means you shouldn't be able to see the entire pile.

[Kae]

Originally Posted by Zippo

. and yes, photographs or simple diagrams will help a lot.

I was seriously considering producing photographs (can't draw) but wondered how easy the instructions were to follow. I'll get onto it!

Kae.

Zippo, check out these tuning links http://texasarchery.org/Documents/T4T/TuningForTens.pdf, http://texasarchery.org/Documents/Ea...gguide2002.pdf and http://texasarchery.org/Documents/EastonDocs/Enocks.hlp.
For more info on all aspects of archery download that archers ref at d o w n l o a d this covers most things

[Zippo]

Hi John, thanks for the info. I've read the archers ref before but the method kae posted is slightly different as it doesn't involve changing the spring tension. Also, I've read great things about this method over at archery forum so I'm pretty interested.

Please post how it goes