stiff bare shaft week walk back

[geoffw]

a friend of mine has just asked me if i could help with a problem. this being that his bare shaft at 30m is showing stiff 8" to left but his walk back drops of to the right (week) iv experienced a few strange tuning probs but not this one. Has any one got any ideas

[buzz lite beer]

Originally Posted by geoffw

a friend of mine has just asked me if i could help with a problem. this being that his bare shaft at 30m is showing stiff 8" to left but his walk back drops of to the right (week) iv experienced a few strange tuning probs but not this one. Has any one got any ideas

Believe the walk back over the bare shaft tune, you'd be surprised as to how far a weak set up bare shaft will weave left to right during it's forward flight on the path to the target on anything over 15m, unless the bare shafts are flying relatively straight a bare shaft tune will mean very little and what your friend will be experiencing will be little more than a coincidental point of impact move forward 5m to 25m or back to 35m and the bare shaft could quite easily impact 8" to the left at these distances, also make sure sight track is vertical.

[geoffw]

the bare shaft also hits left at 18m there is something not right

[buzz lite beer]

check bare shaft at all the distances as your friend is doing the walk back. could just be as simple as plunger needs moving in or out. clearence issues not just arrow to bow clearance but string path clearance needs elininating too.

[Jerry Tee]

Get the bear shaft right at 20 yds first. You can get some funny results with a walk down trying to separate the sping tension from the center shot interpretation ain't easy.

[geoffw]

yeah we`v been through the clearance stuff and can tune the bare shaft at 18m no prob. if the button wasnt set properly the walk back should drop in a curve we`v experienced that a few times but there`s obviously something we`v missed.

[geoffretired]

Bare shaft testing tells you whether the arrows are well matched,weak or stiff(in this case stiff. if the archer is right handed)
The walk back test tells you which way the fletched arrows are flying in relation to the way the bow is pointing. If they drop across to the right, move the button further to the left, or stiffen it a little.
As Jerry Tee has said, get the bare shaft over to the group (moving it right compared to the present) by speeding up the bow some how; increase poundage or take weight off the string.You then have matched the bow to the arrows. Then set up the button to give the walkback results you want to see.

[buzz lite beer]

basically just forget about the bare shaft aspects for the time being, getting a vertical result from an extended range walk back 10-40m will get arrow flight good enough for MB shooting if the shot to shot consistency is there.
sometimes using the bare shaft method is unreliable, if you shot a bare shaft from a matched set of ACE's and a identical ACE shaft with small fletchings a shaft with large fletchings a shaft with offset vanes a shaft with helicial vanes and a shaft with spinwings on none would coincide with each other. So what is the bare shaft test proving???

[Old Bloke]

The trouble with an ACE shaft is that the archer presumes the shaft to be uniformally round along it's length. It is not. Despite best practice by the arrow manufacturer, from all the ACE's I have had, when put through a spine tester/arrow straightener, the *clock* follows a rugby ball shape.
An archer when using an ACE must ensure that a measure of inch deflection is noted upon the arrow, and to the best of their ability by using a spinecheck/straightener, mark each arrow witht he measured deflection. At either the maximum or minimum deflection point, the archer should place this *nodal* point upon the pressure button and fletch accordingly. Only then will the archer achieve something like uniformity in bare shaft tuning. If this *Nodal* point is not found, then it is most probable, that the archer will have different bare shaft results from the same *matched* set of shafts. It might also happen that an archer, even with finding the nodal point will unwittingly shoot against or with the weld of the inner aluminum core. It could be that for some archers, they are not aware that their arrows are rugby ball shapes and hence when bare shaft tested, the position of the *turn of the arrow* will show up spurious results and lead an archer into not trusting the bare shaft tuning method.
In an ideal situation, the archer should shoot each and every ACE arrow out of the matched set bare shaft, and turn the unglued nock to get each arrow to group witht he one shot before. It can take a good two hours to bare shaft tune a dozen matched ACE. When this is done, then the arrows can be fletched. For an archer to get the best from any set of arrows, alloy or carbon, they should all be shot as bare shaft and matched accordingly.

[Jerry Tee]

Originally Posted by buzz lite beer

basically just forget about the bare shaft aspects for the time being, getting a vertical result from an extended range walk back 10-40m will get arrow flight good enough for MB shooting if the shot to shot consistency is there.
sometimes using the bare shaft method is unreliable, if you shot a bare shaft from a matched set of ACE's and a identical ACE shaft with small fletchings a shaft with large fletchings a shaft with offset vanes a shaft with helicial vanes and a shaft with spinwings on none would coincide with each other. So what is the bare shaft test proving???

Of course they won't each has a different amount of weight due to the different fletchings and different drag. A bear shaft tune gets the arrow off the bow correctly. It will do this without having to interpret an arrow strike pattern which is displaying two errors ( spring pressure and center shot ) A bear shaft tune will also tell if your nocking point is right ( it will also give an indication as to whether or not the tiller is right), a walk down won't. Get the spine matched to the bow and then do the walk down. That way you will get a straight line on the walk down, adjust the button in or out to get that straight line verticle.