Grip/Tiller

[easy]

How much does tiller effect grip pressure?
I've been using tennis racket grip tape around my handle for a while, but i keep having to replace it because the pressure of my hand slowly moves the tape up into the throat of my handle. The tape is the padded adhesive stuff, and i also put double sided tape under it to try and stop it moving.
Could it be that i have to much on the bottom limb? Currently about 6mm positive (less tiller bottom limb).

[worthipa]

Originally Posted by easy

I've been using tennis racket grip tape around my handle for a while, but i keep having to replace it because the pressure of my hand slowly moves the tape up into the throat of my handle. The tape is the padded adhesive stuff, and i also put double sided tape under it to try and stop it moving.

I doubt it's anything to do with the tiller; it's more likely to be the heat from your hand loosening the adhesive on the tape and it consequently moving when you grip it.

Mine used to do exactly the same.

[napolienne]

I think 3mm positive or less is usually the norm... That said, it also sounds like your grip may be a little low. Can you describe how your hand is placed on the grip? And where the pressure is?

[Des]

I've had similar issues with my grip since changing from Helix to Matrix riser. I find that an even tiller does help me with the grip and torque, but my bow seems to prefer a 3/4mm tiller.
Is it possible that it could be your bow arm and shoulder angle perhaps? If you're shooting with a slightly bent arm this could be effecting the pressure on the grip...

[geoffretired]

The forces from the bow hand acting on the bow grip are always upwards into the throat, once the bow is raised. Or you could say the weight of the bow is making it tend to slide down through the hand. Either way, that will rub the gripper material upwards on the bow. One problem with adding grippy type material to the grip is the tendency for the hand to grip the material before it has fully settled into its shooting position. In a way it is resisting the hand's tendency to slide/settle into position.
I tend to think it is better to have the shape of the grip customised so the hand settles into a good shooting position without feeling stuck down. The hand doesn't move easily because it is already settled into a position that isn't being pushed to one side or the other because of the grip's shape.Highly polished grips are difficult to hold with a relaxed hand unless everything is very well shaped. A slightly rough surface will allow the hand to slide into place when you first place the hand into the grip, and once the pressure is on the friction, on a well shaped grip, helps to keep it in place.

[easy]

Originally Posted by napolienne

I think 3mm positive or less is usually the norm... That said, it also sounds like your grip may be a little low. Can you describe how your hand is placed on the grip? And where the pressure is?

I shall take a photo this evening. It is possible that maybe i start with my hand a tiny bit low on the grip, but if i place my hand to far up into the throat i find it starts to rub on my thumb knuckle and becomes uncomfortable after just a few shots.

[JohnK]

Bow hand pressure and tiller are related, and once you add in stabilisation and nocking point height to that equation you see how complicated it can get. Pick one as a starting point and change only one other thing at a time.

[bkupris]

Originally Posted by easy

How much does tiller effect grip pressure?

A lot. But the idea is to set your tiller so that you can maintain a relaxed bow hand during the drawing and aiming of the bow.

Depending on how you place your bow hand into the bow will determine the correct static tiller for your bow. I have been led to believe that when you have a consistent bow hand placement in the bow you can check and adjust your tiller as follows:

Raise your bow and put your sight on the gold. Draw back slowly and observe the sight. Does it move up, down or stay stationary on the gold?
If your sight moves up or down it is putting uneven pressure on your bow hand and you will fight it and have to work harder to keep "aiming" at the gold.

Saying that some folk now days set there tiller at zero and ignore it?

[TWIW]

Originally Posted by bkupris

A lot. But the idea is to set your tiller so that you can maintain a relaxed bow hand during the drawing and aiming of the bow.

Depending on how you place your bow hand into the bow will determine the correct static tiller for your bow. I have been led to believe that when you have a consistent bow hand placement in the bow you can check and adjust your tiller as follows:

Raise your bow and put your sight on the gold. Draw back slowly and observe the sight. Does it move up, down or stay stationary on the gold?
If your sight moves up or down it is putting uneven pressure on your bow hand and you will fight it and have to work harder to keep "aiming" at the gold.

Saying that some folk now days set there tiller at zero and ignore it?

I was taught that too. Also I believe it is in Roy matthews book.
As for your hand position easy: I'd like to see it. Do you use a sling? This would enable you to let go of the bow as you draw it. Why haave you put the tape on the grip?

[archer_thom]

I have found that the best way to get a consistent solid grip on the bow is to shoot with a slightly slippery bow hand (I found it in 35+ C heat), as the hand slips into its most stable position.

As for the thumb/index knuckle rubbing on the grip, yes that does seem to be a problem but appears to usually be caused by friction between th bow hand and grip in the release. That said, I do know a case where the index knuckle is pressed very hard into the grip, and I don't know why. (Maybe the hand is rotated too flat?)