Bare shaft and button results

[acehero]

Been trying to get a nice tune back to my bow after fighting with some form issues for a few weeks. I'm right handed, and heres my kit:

Riser: Hoyt Matrix 25"
Limbs: SF Carbon 36#
Arrows: xx75 1916's measuring 28 3/4"
String: 452x with floss nocking points.

I tried doing the "solid button" method of tuning to start with. The bareshafts at 20 yards were going a long way left of the fletched group. I was a bit surprised by this as at the time I had the limbs wound up a bit and was expecting the arrows to be almost too weak (according to the easton charts), but this showed stiff. I wound the limbs down and the bareshaft showed stiffer. I wound them right up and it still showed a little stiff. At this point I assumed I was doing something wrong and gave up on this method.

Couple of weeks later and I tried to get the bareshafts to group with the rest by the method of adjusting the button tension. I've managed it, but in order for them all to group together at 20yds I've had to wind the limbs right up (so probably 38-40 pounds on the fingers now) AND take almost all the tension off the button. Trouble is, the arrow is a long long way outside of the centreline (ie, the plunger is a long way out) to stop it bottoming out.

I've tried reducing the plunger depth and increasing the spring tension but this makes the bareshaft land left of the group again. Anyway my question is this: have I read all this correctly and it appears that the arrows are a bit stiff for my setup? I've had them tuned in before but had them cut down since then to work with a clicker. Tbh I'm not so worried about them being wrong as long as I'm understanding tuning right so I make the right choice in ACE spine next year.

[Jerry Tee]

Go to Easton Archery: HOME click on the down loads and download the tuning guide. Set the button mid tension on the spring and set the depth as shown by the diagrams in the tuning guide. Set your limbs mid weight and set the tiller of the limbs to the makers specs and set the arrow rest so that the button sits at the center of the shaft. Having done that shoot your self in and then do a bare shaft tune . First thing is to be sure is that the nocking point height is right. set that right first. After that you can alter the bow or the button, according to the tuning guide.

[acehero]

I've been all through the tuning guide from Easton. Nocking point, arrow rest etc etc all setup correctly.

[joetapley]

Standard approach is to set centre shot around 1 diameter outside centre and leave it alone.
Use varying nocking point and button tension only to tune (forget the matchstick - this is a suggested arrow selection test not a tuning method). If you cannot tune then wrong arrow selection.

You can try adjusting draw weight to change the bow to match the arrow (reverse of selecting the arrow to match the bow). You seem to have tried this and got nowhere.

1913 would have been a better option with assumed draw weight and arrow length.

[acehero]

Originally Posted by joetapley

1913 would have been a better option with assumed draw weight and arrow length.

Yes the way things are now I'm thinking something like that. When i first got the arrows they were longer and I got a great tune out of them. If i was just shooting indoors with them I wouldnt be too bothered, but we still shoot outdoors. I reckon I've got 2 options - x7's at 1914 or some xx75 at 1816 (just looking at whats easily available). Would there be much difference between mine (1916) and the x7's (1914)?

[joetapley]

I reckon I've got 2 options - x7's at 1914 or some xx75 at 1816 (just looking at whats easily available). Would there be much difference between mine (1916) and the x7's (1914)?

Little difference. X7 shaft being a bit lighter will give more speed and better grouping performance but because of thinner wall less robust.

Just use Easton selection charts (remembering that the arrow length for the chart is distance from nock to rest plus 1 inch not the overall arrow length).

[acehero]

Hehe well thats the thing, the charts suggest the 1916's or the x7 1914's. The 1914's should behave a little weaker but I dont know if it would be enough.

[Jerry Tee]

The cheapest way to find out would be to buy a couple of 1816 Jazz arrows fletch one and bare shaft tune.

[archer_thom]

Originally Posted by acehero

Been trying to get a nice tune back to my bow after fighting with some form issues for a few weeks. I'm right handed, and heres my kit:

Riser: Hoyt Matrix 25"
Limbs: SF Carbon 36#
Arrows: xx75 1916's measuring 28 3/4"
String: 452x with floss nocking points.

I tried doing the "solid button" method of tuning to start with. The bareshafts at 20 yards were going a long way left of the fletched group. I was a bit surprised by this as at the time I had the limbs wound up a bit and was expecting the arrows to be almost too weak (according to the easton charts), but this showed stiff. I wound the limbs down and the bareshaft showed stiffer. I wound them right up and it still showed a little stiff. At this point I assumed I was doing something wrong and gave up on this method.

Couple of weeks later and I tried to get the bareshafts to group with the rest by the method of adjusting the button tension. I've managed it, but in order for them all to group together at 20yds I've had to wind the limbs right up (so probably 38-40 pounds on the fingers now) AND take almost all the tension off the button. Trouble is, the arrow is a long long way outside of the centreline (ie, the plunger is a long way out) to stop it bottoming out.

I've tried reducing the plunger depth and increasing the spring tension but this makes the bareshaft land left of the group again. Anyway my question is this: have I read all this correctly and it appears that the arrows are a bit stiff for my setup? I've had them tuned in before but had them cut down since then to work with a clicker. Tbh I'm not so worried about them being wrong as long as I'm understanding tuning right so I make the right choice in ACE spine next year.

No worries, looks like you're experiencing the Curse of the Easton Arrow Chart. Easton always give a point weight that is too light for the recommended shaft - ie, you wouldn't want a smaller shaft, but a heavier point makes them fly well. For carbons this is ok, just stick a bigger point in, but unfortunately it does become a pain with the only - one -weight -available X7s.