Tuning - brace height and tiller

[ChakaZulu]

2 things:

1. I understand that you measure brace height to the pivot point of the riser. What does that mean? My bow will pivot backwards at the top no matter where you hold it in line with the rest/handle. How do I find the pivot point?


2. Is there a generaly recommended tiller or do I just use trial and error? I can't find any recommendation in the bow's handbook.


thanks

Dan

[Huffy]

The pivot point is normally regarded as the curve of the grip, i.e. where the webbing piece of flesh between the thumb and finger will contact the grip.

I hope that is clear (as trying to put it into words is very difficult)

Best wishes, Mark

[Flying Whale]

You can generally also measure to the centre of the pressure button, as it is usually directly above the deepest point of the grip.

[King Custard]

1) usually deepest point of the throat of the grip to the string (at rest) - but to be honest I measure from string to button center- it's just far easier to be accurate in your 'measurement logs'...and as said button is generally above the pivot point ( though not in my case with a nexus with two button holes)

2)no tiller stated?.....start with equal (ZERO) tiller. see how it shoots for you, and the bow-sights 'tendency to come Off the gold as you pull through the clicker'
When strung at at your determined braceheight use a Brace height gauge fixed onto the string, and measure from string to top edge of riser where the limb 'disappears into the riser'..doing it this way will give you more constant readings.. NOTE you are not looking for a finite measurement - just the difference between the measurement taken at the top riser/limb juncture- and the measurement taken at the bottom riser/limb juncture.
When the difference is zero, you have zero tiller..
A difference of 2/8's of an inch- greater at the top limb - is "2/8's inch Positive tiller"...
As you know, tiller adjustment for ideal tuning varies for every archer - but its probably safe to say that you'll end up somewhere between zero tiller and 3/8's positive tiller.
How dya know when you have tiller right?
well when you can draw from rest position- to - through the clicker and your aperture is still central on the X...this is a rough guide, but good enough.
You could probably get to Bowman without ever worrying about tiller more than this!


***NOTE ensure that you are drawing "sight on gold..and straight and slow to anchor point" ...with your normal, consistent repeatable wrist/hand position...any occaisional 'stiffness in your bow hand wrist' will give you false findings as you come through the clicker.. as effectively you'll be changing the pivot point slightly.!!
Pivot point in this instance is perhaps best described as the dead-center of the small area of your bow hand where 'push against the pistol grip is greatest'...ugh!! I dont like that description so much now..
Way hard to describe without pictures!

[ChakaZulu]

Originally Posted by King Custard

1) usually deepest point of the throat of the grip to the string (at rest) - but to be honest I measure from string to button center- it's just far easier to be accurate in your 'measurement logs'...and as said button is generally above the pivot point ( though not in my case with a nexus with two button holes)

Cool, that's what I've been doing.


[QUOTE}
2)no tiller stated?.....start with equal (ZERO) tiller. see how it shoots for you, and the bow-sights 'tendency to come Off the gold as you pull through the clicker'
When strung at at your determined braceheight use a Brace height gauge fixed onto the string, and measure from string to top edge of riser where the limb 'disappears into the riser'..doing it this way will give you more constant readings.. NOTE you are not looking for a finite measurement - just the difference between the measurement taken at the top riser/limb juncture- and the measurement taken at the bottom riser/limb juncture.
When the difference is zero, you have zero tiller..
A difference of 2/8's of an inch- greater at the top limb - is "2/8's inch Positive tiller"...
As you know, tiller adjustment for ideal tuning varies for every archer - but its probably safe to say that you'll end up somewhere between zero tiller and 3/8's positive tiller.
How dya know when you have tiller right?
well when you can draw from rest position- to - through the clicker and your aperture is still central on the X...this is a rough guide, but good enough.
You could probably get to Bowman without ever worrying about tiller more than this!


***NOTE ensure that you are drawing "sight on gold..and straight and slow to anchor point" ...with your normal, consistent repeatable wrist/hand position...any occaisional 'stiffness in your bow hand wrist' will give you false findings as you come through the clicker.. as effectively you'll be changing the pivot point slightly.!!
Pivot point in this instance is perhaps best described as the dead-center of the small area of your bow hand where 'push against the pistol grip is greatest'...ugh!! I dont like that description so much now..
Way hard to describe without pictures![/quote]

I shoot barebow, so sight etc doesn't apply, but I think I get the point, thanks:-)

[archer_thom]

Check any thread with the title "tiller", and you will find that on the whole there are two ways of doing it, and the two camps DO NOT AGREE. Decide for yourself...

Btw, what type of bow is that? I've never seen one without a very complete manual.

[BorderBows]

http://goarchers.bravehost.com/tiller.htm

this explains the reason for tiller.

Hope it proves good reading. The 3-5mm tiller is to compensate for your knocking point being above the centre of the bow.

the problem you have is mass produced limbs are about equal, so to achive this, the bottom limb is wound in a tad.
Tillered limbs have the bolts set equal, and the tiller is built into the limbs, in that it appears on the bow if the bolts are set equal.

The reason for 3-5mm and not a precise answer is due to pressure placement on the grip, the nocking point, arrows, and bracing height. The more bracing height the more tiller will show without changing its setting.

Hope that helps

Sid

[ChakaZulu]

Winstar II. Brace height's in but not tiller.
I've got it set at minimum brace height and zero tiller atm.

[Tropicalshot]

Originally Posted by BorderBows

http://goarchers.bravehost.com/tiller.htm

this explains the reason for tiller.

Hope it proves good reading. The 3-5mm tiller is to compensate for your knocking point being above the centre of the bow.

the problem you have is mass produced limbs are about equal, so to achive this, the bottom limb is wound in a tad.
Tillered limbs have the bolts set equal, and the tiller is built into the limbs, in that it appears on the bow if the bolts are set equal.

The reason for 3-5mm and not a precise answer is due to pressure placement on the grip, the nocking point, arrows, and bracing height. The more bracing height the more tiller will show without changing its setting.

Hope that helps

Sid

a good set of top of the range limbs are paired in the factory and sold as a pre tillered pair, thats why they have a bottom limb and top limb, switch them around and see the consequences for your self if you dont believe it.

[ChakaZulu]

Oh, I believe you. I'd try it, but I have bottom of the range limbs!

My wife put her bow together upside down last week and her score went up quite dramatically.